Ahh I see.install later.too bz with the blower

 

Just finished putting oil in it. It took just a tad over 9 quarts before the oil came out of the fill level plug hole @ 90* TFT, so I guess the stated 9.2 quart capacity is correct.
I'll try it later and see how it launches, etc. to see if I need to top it up, further but I doubt it will need any more fluid. With the fill level in this pan being 1/2" higher than the stock pan, along with the extra oil in the sump, it should have more than enough oil. If not, I'll throw another 1/2 quart or so in it.
Anyone remember what amount of fluid the stock C6 pan takes on a filter change? I've read somewhere that it takes ~6.5 quarts, IIRC?

 

Just by way of an update, I managed to do a couple of hours of driving around today, in varying traffic conditions, including quite a bit of stop and go. Traffic was actually pretty horrible, since we have a flurry of major roads works going on (as we have upcoming national elections). Outside temps were being reported on the AC display at between 86-87 degrees although it felt more like 96 today.
The trans definitely takes longer to get up to operating temps now (I'm considering routing it back through the radiator now).
But get this, the highest the transmission temp got was when I idled back into the neighborhood and parked it in the garage, at a whopping 163*!
To be fair and honest, I did not get a lot of opportunity to get hard on the throttle, but this is at least 10-15 degrees lower than it used to be in similar driving conditions. I guess at that hard work and frustration gained some result in terms of cooling. I have to say that I feel better knowing it has an extra ~3 quarts in the sump too, not to mention my new "big mouth" filter.
So that experiment turned out decent, even though it was a shitload of work, and I can't honestly recommend that anyone should run out and buys one of these Moroso pans, unless they have a TIG welder and are proficient at aluminum welding...
My subsequent experience with installing my new sexy Comp Gold Race rockers, though - not so much so rewarding. But that's for another thread...

 

Old Post, but your the only one I've see write about this 6l80 pan upgrade. Had a few questions kind of a long term follow up.

Did you keep it? Still running it? Ever any issues ect? Worth the weight for the more stable temps? Was it a pain getting up to operating temp when cold out?

Also do you think the pan could be modified ahead of time for proper fitment? Did you have any photos of what needed to be modified to get it in smoothly?

 

I know this doesn't answer your questions, But......

IMHO, I think changing the pan has too many drawbacks vs anything that could be considered an upgrade. Increasing the capacity (volume) for cooling purposes can easily be accomplished by installation of a second remote cooler with a bypass to allow quicker warmup times. Increasing volume to avoid pump starvation on acceleration is simply done by adding an extra 1/2 to 1 quart after a fluid change with the stock pan.

 

Yes, I still have the pan, and I’ve had zero issues with it after installing it.
It’s worth it, in my view, especially if you’re drag racing like I do, since the filter sits in the front of the pan on these transmissions, which means the fluid will tend to move away from the filter when you launch, which is why we typically have to overfill the sump if you’re drag racing with a high stall converter, since at the stock fill level, the filter will become uncovered when you launch and the pump will momentarily suck air, causing the car to lay down just after you launch.
This pan is full depth throughout and has a horizontal baffle in the back half to help retain fluid that would otherwise slash backwards and up out of the sump. Plus, it holds about an extra 1.25 quarts, which helps, in and of itself: not just fluid temperature, but the extra capacity in the baffled sump will help to keep the filter covered.
I don’t have any problems with it getting up to temperature, but it’s typically between 80-95* here all year round, so I can’t speak to what obtains in cold climates.
You can easily modify the pan itself to work by doing what I suspect they did with the LG pan, which is to cut the corner off and weld a small piece of aluminum on it to create a 45 degree corner. It’s not a lot of clearance that’s needed, so you could probably just build up enough welding inside that corner of the pan that you could grind the corner back a bit. I considered doing that, but was afraid to do so because of the fear that welding it might warp the pan. I suppose if it’s a competent machine shop, they could do the work easy and cheap.
Below are some pictures, including one that shows how much (how little, actually, I had to grind out of the corner of the cradle to get it to fit. Having polyurethane trans mounts made me confident enough to do this. If I had to use the soft rubber stock mounts, I would’ve probably taken some more material off it. But, I wouldn’t do this mod before changing those mounts anyhow.


This is the corner that hits the cradle

Anti-slosh baffle in the rear of pan

Here’s the amount of clearancing I had to do on the cradle.

 

What about the pan magnet? Transfer over?
glue it down? I’m considering attaching one to the side plug with some kind jb weld, or the baffle with a screw.

Also since it comes with replacement Allen bolts, (longer I assume) how did you torque those three hard to reach Allen bolts that the cradle and leaf spring interferes with clearance on?

HOXXOH- Your input is always welcomed and thoughtfully considered in my opinion. I’m not sure I agree here in this instance as I’m going to be replacing the fluid and filter along with the mounts back there already anyway. Happened upon the pan for $147 so I’m gonna give it a go. Knowing what I’m getting into. I plan to Hit the bad pan corner with a belt sander (welded inside and out, unfortunately the baffle is in the way as far as adding to the inner weld) as well as take a dremel or diamond file to the cradle if needed. Even considering a thick smear of black rtv as a pseudo cushion in case of light contact under some type of extreme situation. But I’ll know ahead of time what I’m looking for an be prepared to test fit and double check thanks to this thread.

 

I didn’t reuse the stock magnet, because both drain plugs are magnetic. I figured if the transmission produced more metal shavings then the drain plug could collect, I would be pulling the transmission out, let alone the pan, lol.

I didn’t use the Moroso Allen bolts on the rear part of the pan, but reused the stock ones instead. To get those tightened, I had to loosen the transmission mounts and jack the trans up a bit and use a 10mm wrench to tighten those. It wasn’t fun, but I managed it. Now that I’ve removed the rear spring to switch to coilovers, it’s much easier to get at those rear bolts.

 

Do you have a part # for the filter? Thnx

 

This is the filter I used:
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/6l80e-jumbo-filter/