What size headers?
When I was buying my headers, since I was planning on swapping out the muffler system as well I had the choice to go with either the 2.5" or the 3" system at the rear. I spoke to Corsa about it and they said that the 3" had always shown a loss in torque on their dynos until you got to REALLY big power numbers.
On an ls3 even going to 2" on a bone stock motor makes more power than 1-7/8 and loses nothing in the midrange. See below
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63640





On an ls3 even going to 2" on a bone stock motor makes more power than 1-7/8 and loses nothing in the midrange. See below
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63640
If you want to dispute evidence that's fine I guess it just sounds like you have 1-3/4 and are in denial. There is literally nothing you could find in that test thatxwould suggest larger headers would make you slower. The dyno is a tool to show differences between mods which is exactly what that was. And in this case bigger is better
Maybe you could explain how the 2" headers on a back to back test losing nothing in the midrange but making 6 more whp up top would make a car slower?
Last edited by redbird555; Sep 27, 2017 at 06:04 AM.
If you want to dispute evidence that's fine I guess it just sounds like you have 1-3/4 and are in denial. There is literally nothing you could find in that test thatxwould suggest larger headers would make you slower. The dyno is a tool to show differences between mods which is exactly what that was. And in this case bigger is better
Maybe you could explain how the 2" headers on a back to back test losing nothing in the midrange but making 6 more whp up top would make a car slower?

he is one of the fastest Bolt On guys around with hundreds of documented runs of what works and what does not work
how much documentation do you have on the 2 inch pipes losing nothing in the midrange and where did it come from ?
how many tests , how many cars , what were the conditions ?
These are all questions he can answer ......
just saying .......
Dave

he is one of the fastest Bolt On guys around with hundreds of documented runs of what works and what does not work
how much documentation do you have on the 2 inch pipes losing nothing in the midrange and where did it come from ?
how many tests , how many cars , what were the conditions ?
These are all questions he can answer ......
just saying .......
Dave
Now when you go to the track will 7whp show up? Probably not, too many factors, but that doesnt mean it isnt there. Thats the whole point of a dyno is to track changes that a racetrack cant always see. Little things will eventually add up.






he is one of the fastest Bolt On guys around with hundreds of documented runs of what works and what does not work
how much documentation do you have on the 2 inch pipes losing nothing in the midrange and where did it come from ?
how many tests , how many cars , what were the conditions ?
These are all questions he can answer ......
just saying .......
Dave
I saved the dyno chart to an earlier computer but don't have it on this one.
I can't speak to the 1 7/8" vs. 2" on LS3/ LS7 engines. I do know this, I have about 525 rwhp and my low-mid power is phenomenal and I don't feel as if I'm giving up anything.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





Simply gaining just 1 hp at every 100 rpm increment from 4600 to 6000, even if you lose 1 hp at every 100 rpm increment from 6000 to 6700, still means there is a net 7 hp gain. The initial 14 hp in the grunt range moves the car farther down the track than the 7 hp at the high end. It's the same concept that Suns_PSD mentioned about Dennis' car.
So here's a little comparison for you related to hp. Let us assume a location with 1000' elevation, 57*F, 29.92 BP, and 35% H. The DA is 1177' and the dyno hp is 100% at 400hp. Now if we retain everything except the temp and increase it by 12* to 69*F the DA changes to 1992' and the dyno hp falls to 98.3%, but compensates with a 1.017 correction factor. The real hp dropped by 7, yet the dyno readout still said 400. If you take that car to the track with 1992' DA and run 11.5 @ 120 and drop the temp to 57* to get a 1177' DA, the car will now run 11.38 @ 121.5. So yes, you can notice 7 hp at the track on the timeslip, but probably not on your butt.

As far as consistency is concerned, here's an interesting pair of timeslips. Same track, but 24 hours apart. The DA on 1/1/11 (right side slip) was 1068'. The left side slip DA was 1053'.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1576398888
Now about the exhaust pipe sizes. Did you ever wonder why the duct size gets smaller as it gets farther away from the furnace on your home heating system? It's because the air is getting cooler/denser and requires less space to maintain the same velocity. Think of the combustion chamber as the furnace and the pipes as the ducts. As the gasses cool they need less space. The volume being produced is directly related to the displacement and rpm. Compare a 6.2 @ 6600 redline to a 7.0 @ 7100 and there is a 21% difference. Yet the square inch volume difference on a 1.75" primary to a 2" pipe is 33%, which initially makes you think that the 6.2 engine should have 1.875 primaries. However, a couple of factors play into the difference. One is that all of those header sizes use 3" collectors (6.49 sq in area) that are fed by 4 pipes of either 2.07 sq in (8.28 total), 2.40 sq in (9.60 total), or 2.76 sq in (11.04 total). The other is that 1.75 tubes have a higher percentage of surface area for cooling, so reducing the pipe diameter to 2.5" (4.40 sq in) shortly after the collectors will maintain a higher velocity. The alternative would be to wrap the primaries to retain the heat and not reduce the pipe diameter for a longer distance. Because header sizes are restricted by the available diameters and the configuration of the car they need to fit, compromises are necessary. There is only one rpm on any car, no matter how constructed or what size/length the primaries are, that they work at peak efficiency. The trick is to fit that rpm into the curve that best complements the rest of the engine.
Last edited by HOXXOH; Sep 28, 2017 at 09:16 AM.
Not sure how you drive with a couple of 55 gallon drums under your car (3' collectors)
Simply gaining just 1 hp at every 100 rpm increment from 4600 to 6000, even if you lose 1 hp at every 100 rpm increment from 6000 to 6700, still means there is a net 7 hp gain. The initial 14 hp in the grunt range moves the car farther down the track than the 7 hp at the high end. It's the same concept that Suns_PSD mentioned about Dennis' car.
This assumes that there is a loss at some point using a largerheader, as I have shown you though there isnt
So here's a little comparison for you related to hp. Let us assume a location with 1000' elevation, 57*F, 29.92 BP, and 35% H. The DA is 1177' and the dyno hp is 100% at 400hp. Now if we retain everything except the temp and increase it by 12* to 69*F the DA changes to 1992' and the dyno hp falls to 98.3%, but compensates with a 1.017 correction factor. The real hp dropped by 7, yet the dyno readout still said 400. If you take that car to the track with 1992' DA and run 11.5 @ 120 and drop the temp to 57* to get a 1177' DA, the car will now run 11.38 @ 121.5. So yes, you can notice 7 hp at the track on the timeslip, but probably not on your butt.

As far as consistency is concerned, here's an interesting pair of timeslips. Same track, but 24 hours apart. The DA on 1/1/11 (right side slip) was 1068'. The left side slip DA was 1053'.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1576398888
I understand how DA works...but thanks for proving my point. 7whp is such a minuscule change that virtually any weather changes be it temp, humidity etc will render the tiny change of 7whp unoticeable.
Now about the exhaust pipe sizes. Did you ever wonder why the duct size gets smaller as it gets farther away from the furnace on your home heating system? It's because the air is getting cooler/denser and requires less space to maintain the same velocity. Think of the combustion chamber as the furnace and the pipes as the ducts. As the gasses cool they need less space. The volume being produced is directly related to the displacement and rpm. Compare a 6.2 @ 6600 redline to a 7.0 @ 7100 and there is a 21% difference. Yet the square inch volume difference on a 1.75" primary to a 2" pipe is 33%, which initially makes you think that the 6.2 engine should have 1.875 primaries. However, a couple of factors play into the difference. One is that all of those header sizes use 3" collectors (6.49 sq in area) that are fed by 4 pipes of either 2.07 sq in (8.28 total), 2.40 sq in (9.60 total), or 2.76 sq in (11.04 total). The other is that 1.75 tubes have a higher percentage of surface area for cooling, so reducing the pipe diameter to 2.5" (4.40 sq in) shortly after the collectors will maintain a higher velocity. The alternative would be to wrap the primaries to retain the heat and not reduce the pipe diameter for a longer distance. Because header sizes are restricted by the available diameters and the configuration of the car they need to fit, compromises are necessary. There is only one rpm on any car, no matter how constructed or what size/length the primaries are, that they work at peak efficiency. The trick is to fit that rpm into the curve that best complements the rest of the engine.
Yes a dyno is just a tuning tool but its also used to show hp increases from mods. Will you ever notice a difference at the track from 7whp? No, most likely from the reasons mentioned above. So thats why you turn to a dyno like whats been posted which clearly shows an A-B comparison you wont notice at a track. It doesnt meant it doesnt exist though. I would like to know thought how a mod that makes the same midrange power and increases top end power would slow you down? If thats the case maybe no one should do headers to begin with lol
Not sure how you drive with a couple of 55 gallon drums under your car (3' collectors) ��





Not sure how you drive with a couple of 55 gallon drums under your car (3' collectors) ��
fixed it. thanks. Actually I do log nearly every pass. Then record them with the DA and corrections and any pertinent notes about track conditions, tire pressure, changes done to the car or tune, etc.
It's part of the reason I run as quick as I do and that those "most people" who rely only on the dyno results are slower.
I've gone about as far as I can with combinations of off the shelf exhaust parts, so my next step is custom making replacement pieces. It's just a fun challenge from a scientific perspective, not a job. I get to use my many years of racing and automotive experience mixed in with my engineering background in aerospace manufacturing.





Yes a dyno is just a tuning tool but its also used to show hp increases from mods. Will you ever notice a difference at the track from 7whp? No, most likely from the reasons mentioned above. So thats why you turn to a dyno like whats been posted which clearly shows an A-B comparison you wont notice at a track. It doesnt meant it doesnt exist though. I would like to know thought how a mod that makes the same midrange power and increases top end power would slow you down? If thats the case maybe no one should do headers to begin with lol
When you say "the difference they make is too small", certainly doesn't help your cause. It's been documented that simply cinching the tie-down straps an extra couple of clicks can change dyno results by several hp, so variables on a dyno exist too.
I guess my only evidence of exhaust size has been the changes from stock to large showed improvement and then configurations that were smaller showed more improvement. It's all on timeslips, so apparently that's not what you want to see.
I think Burns Stainless has some pretty good info
http://www.burnsstainless.com/techarticles.aspx
I only recently deleted NJDennis' dyno comparison off my home computer comparing the 1 3/4" vs the 1 7/8" on an LS2. I'm going to state right now that if you run an LS2, with the OEM head design, you 100% need to be in a 1 3/4" header.
However the Camaro forum post makes a darn good argument for 2" headers on LS3/ LS7s.
What I guess I can't speak to, is that a dyno is always 100% throttle correct? Are there gains with smaller diameter headers at other throttle positions that can not be calculated on a dyno?
As far as LGs dyno charts that 'prove' that 1 3/4" headers are better, they have been debunked for the simple reason that in an LG header, their 1 3/4" header has longer primaries and therefore is just a better design than their own 1 7/8" headers.
I only recently deleted NJDennis' dyno comparison off my home computer comparing the 1 3/4" vs the 1 7/8" on an LS2. I'm going to state right now that if you run an LS2, with the OEM head design, you 100% need to be in a 1 3/4" header.
However the Camaro forum post makes a darn good argument for 2" headers on LS3/ LS7s.
What I guess I can't speak to, is that a dyno is always 100% throttle correct? Are there gains with smaller diameter headers at other throttle positions that can not be calculated on a dyno?
As far as LGs dyno charts that 'prove' that 1 3/4" headers are better, they have been debunked for the simple reason that in an LG header, their 1 3/4" header has longer primaries and therefore is just a better design than their own 1 7/8" headers.
1-7/8 have been proven to be better on a stock ls1 too....
Literally no argument can be made for 1-3/4 headers
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-results.html





I only recently deleted NJDennis' dyno comparison off my home computer comparing the 1 3/4" vs the 1 7/8" on an LS2. I'm going to state right now that if you run an LS2, with the OEM head design, you 100% need to be in a 1 3/4" header.
However the Camaro forum post makes a darn good argument for 2" headers on LS3/ LS7s.
What I guess I can't speak to, is that a dyno is always 100% throttle correct? Are there gains with smaller diameter headers at other throttle positions that can not be calculated on a dyno?
As far as LGs dyno charts that 'prove' that 1 3/4" headers are better, they have been debunked for the simple reason that in an LG header, their 1 3/4" header has longer primaries and therefore is just a better design than their own 1 7/8" headers.
Making the majority of the components working together is the primary reason both Dennis and myself are at the top of our respective categories. Others near the top that still outpace the average, may only have one mismatched component. I'm aware of the slight differences between myself and the next two. They produced similar raw power, but didn't use it as effectively.





Literally no argument can be made for 1-3/4 headers
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-results.html
10.626 @ 126.98 - Dennis50NJ - 05 A4 Z51 - CAI, cb, conv, ewp, pfast, 3.73, hdr, ptb, tune, & more, DR
External Engine Modifications LS3 (Bolt-Ons)
10.802 @ 126.84 - HOXXOH - 08 A6 F55 - CAI, conv, ptb, Z06 Exhaust, tune, & more, DR
Number 1 each category and both with 1.75" primary tube headers.
Go fish!
Last edited by HOXXOH; Sep 30, 2017 at 01:08 PM.








