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Ill try to let my little video speak for itself, but the short version is I can’t figure out how to access the two hydraulic lines that need to be disconnected to finish removing the steering rack. Any advice on where to go and what to try from here will be greatly appreciated.
Another way is to continue to take out the alternator bracket/PS pump. The PS fluid reservoir comes off as you evenly walk all of the bolts out of the bracket. One bolt is tricky to get to through the PS pulley, but it comes out. Don't mess with the ABS module pressure lines. Take the bolts out and prop it up on the higher bolt like this
Once the bracket/PS pump is out, the easiest I found to remove the lines was using a long 3/8 extension, a 3/8 swivel and a 18mm crows foot.
Make sure your front wheels are straight as possible and you keep your steering wheel from moving while separated and you return it to it's original position.
This is all I took out to get the damper. You don't have to take the rack all the way out, just slide it out the passenger side enough to clear a path. Also do not have to take out the fan assembly. I had to to use my torque multiplier for the damper bolt (bulky).
Appreciate the help all. Knowing that you can turn just a tiny bit from the drivers side wheel well seems like a small tip, but it made all the difference in the world.
Everything is disconnected now and next step is to figure out how to pull it out. I was already looking at the alternator mount and power steering reservoir to help give room. I think I’ll try that and maybe go ahead and pull out the fan assembly as well.
I may pick at it after work throughout the coming week, but the real work will likely end up waiting until next weekend.
We pulled mine out the driver's side. Pulling the alternator, upper rad hose & ps pump (I think) gave us room to move the abs pump with all those lines up into that space to clear it.
I just went through the pics I have and didn't get any good ones with those parts out.
Through the wheel well with the wheel off, a little bit at a time. Can only turn them like 1/16 of a turn at a time. It is annoying and takes awhile.
I'll have to try this. About to do my Z. Maybe I took the hard route on the vert. The lines were very much a pain to get reconnected. Maybe this is the way to go.
giving yourself way to much work. pull the right inner tierod off and lift the rack over and up high.hold it there using a hammer putting the handle under the rack and the other side on the cradle. don't even touch the lines that way.
I'll have to try this. About to do my Z. Maybe I took the hard route on the vert. The lines were very much a pain to get reconnected. Maybe this is the way to go.
This is the problem I'm worried about having to face if I don't pull the fan assembly and alternator mount. Get them out without removing that stuff was a real b*tch, but I foresee it being far worse trying to get them back in.
Originally Posted by rpmextra
giving yourself way to much work. pull the right inner tierod off and lift the rack over and up high.hold it there using a hammer putting the handle under the rack and the other side on the cradle. don't even touch the lines that way.
So, you're saying I can access the pulley and bolt without disconnecting any hydraulic lines by removing a tie rod and lifting the rack instead of pulling it out? If so, I think this is easily the best way to go. Do you have pics or a video of exactly how you did this?
By "right side" are you referring to the driver's or passenger's side? The right side of the car changes depending on which way you are facing.
This is the problem I'm worried about having to face if I don't pull the fan assembly and alternator mount. Get them out without removing that stuff was a real b*tch, but I foresee it being far worse trying to get them back in.
So, you're saying I can access the pulley and bolt without disconnecting any hydraulic lines by removing a tie rod and lifting the rack instead of pulling it out? If so, I think this is easily the best way to go.
By "right side" are you referring to the driver's or passenger's side? The right side of the car changes depending on which way you are facing.
Yes I have done it many times. And no, the right side should always be considered the passenger side. Always assume you're sitting in the car to determine right and left. That's will go for anything you order like a mirror or control arm ect. I Will try to find you a picture but I've posted this in other harmonic balancer threads with pics.
Jeeze... This is exactly why I paid someone to do the HB for me! I feel I have the knowledge to do so, but I just feel like I would have gotten to this point and then wished I would have had someone else do it. I see you're in DFW - I had 21 Century Muscle do my HB for me, only charged $375.
here is that pic. rack still in, did not loose a drop of oil. i actaully swap cams like this too, but then you need to remove the fan and rad for clearance but i still leave the rack in place.
i actaully swap cams like this too, but then you need to remove the fan and rad for clearance but i still leave the rack in place.
Geez, I wish I'd would have seen one of your original posts on doing it this way last Sunday before I disconnected those lines. Even so, this should make it a bit easier to pull out the balancer this weekend. Hopefully, she'll be back on the road come next Monday!
Advice Needed: Harmonic Balancer
