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How to pull your engine in 45 easy steps

Old 04-25-2018, 11:02 AM
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Default How to pull your engine in 45 easy steps

How to pull your engine in 45 easy steps

Yes, thatís correct Ė 45 easy steps! Iíve been meaning to do this for pretty close to forever but usually get part of the way through, only to get tired of being under the car but not have my phone so I end up saying f**k it and stop. The last time I actually persevered and took pictures of the entire process was on my iPhone 4 which is where the ďpretty close to foreverĒ comment came from. Given that I canít find my stupid iPhone cable I decided to start over again and take fresh pictures since my current camera is much better.

So before we begin, here are some standard disclaimers:
  1. This is not the best way to pull the engine, nor is it necessarily the fastest, most efficient or the only way - it is simply A way, thatís it. For people whoíve done this before Iím sure youíll look at one or more of the steps and go ďhey, thatís not the easiest way to do that!Ē As an example, Iíve talked to people who donít bother dropping the cradle although I have no idea how thatís even possible. Iím hoping that experienced people may also see something Iíve done and think ďwow, thatís a lot easier than how Iíve been doing itĒ. If nothing else it should provide a starting point for someone wanting to take on the job.
  2. My car is a full fledge race car now so itís missing certain equipment like the entire AC system, a full exhaust, cats, O2 sensors etc. Wherever possible Iíve mentioned this in the document and going from memory, outlined the steps needed to remove a specific part that I otherwise donít have pictures for.
  3. My car is an automatic so a few of the steps will be slightly different if your car is a manual. As with the previous disclaimer, Iíve done my best to note the different step(s) needed as Iíve pulled the motor from a friendís manual car before.
  4. I apologize for the quality of the pictures up to and including step 23. I started off using my older phone (to avoid potentially breaking my newer one) but after realizing that the newer one took MUCH better pictures I switched back to it. When I write the companion guide on how to put everything back together Iíll try to replace as many of the lesser quality pictures as possible.
  5. Iím completely open to treating this as a living document so if any of the steps are missing vital information or need clarification Iím open to making any needed changes.

So without further ado letís start.

Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:02 AM
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Default Step 1 Ė Drain the coolant system

If youíre running straight water like I am, I just let it drain in the driveway. If youíre running antifreeze then youíll probably want to catch it in a drain pan.

The first thing to do is loosen the drain plug located at the bottom of the radiator. The location may vary ever so slightly depending on the year of the car or if youíre running an aftermarket radiator like I am, but for the most part itís in pretty much the same spot as shown below:



In addition to draining the radiator youíll need to disconnect the water pump hoses as shown in the next picture in order to get as much coolant out as possible. Iíve also found that with everything disconnected it helps to jack up the back of the car to help gravity do its thing.


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Default Step 2 Ė Remove the hood

There are two 13mm bolts on either side of the hood as shown below. Before removing them though Iíd highly recommend tracing the outline of the bolts with a thick Sharpie as itíll help immensely when reinstalling it later.





Although it is possible to do this on your own Iíd suggest having somebody help you. Also, if youíre worried about possible dropping the hood and hitting the bumper then putting a towel or blanket down to protect it is probably a good idea.

The first thing to do is open the hood the entire way and then crack all four bolts so that you can feel the hood wiggle a bit. Once youíve done that, with somebody holding their side to stabilize the hood, remove the two bolts on your side. At this point you can have your helper switch sides to allow you to remove the remaining two bolts.

Do be careful once the last bolt is removed because even though the hood isnít very heavy it can get a little unwieldy.

If you donít have somebody to help you then what has worked for me in the past is to open the hood just enough to be able to access the bolts and then support it at the back by the windshield. This method will let you disconnect everything but without having to worry about having it fall.

With the hood removed I usually just lay a blanket down at the side of the house and lean it up against it.



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Default Step 3 Ė cover the fenders and front bumper

I usually just use two large bath towels (much to my wifeís dismay as I always seem to find the good ones) as shown below. Even though I havenít covered the bumper Iíd recommend doing it if itís your first time.

Depending on how dirty your fenders are you might want to clean them beforehand so you donít end up grinding the dirt into the paint as youíll end up leaning on them for several of the steps.



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Old 04-25-2018, 11:03 AM
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Default Step 4 Ė disconnect the battery

Pretty straightforward, but super important nonetheless. Iím not running a stock battery anymore but I am still using the OEM cables. I also happen to be doing a dry sump conversion which is why I pulled the battery completely out of the car.





Hereís my 5lb Shorai motorcycle battery, isnít it cute?


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Default Step 5 Ė remove the air intake (and associated connections)

As shown in the picture there are 5 things youíll need to disconnect - the two push pins, the MAF sensor connect, accordion hose and the clamp holding it to the throttle body.




This is a closer picture of the back of it.


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Default Step 6 Ė remove the upper radiator support bracket

This the bracket that sits over top the radiator. The first step is to remove the four 10mm bolts (two on each side) followed by the several hoses resting in clamps on the rear of the bracket as shown below.









Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:03 AM
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Default Step 7 Ė remove the intake shroud

Mine has been in and out so often that itís not really connected properly anymore and basically just sits there. As such, I canít really give you good guidance on how to remove this one.



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Old 04-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default Step 8 Ė remove the radiator, fan and connected hoses

Additional text to follow





















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Old 04-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default Step 9 Ė remove the serpentine and AC belt

Additional text to follow



Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default Step 10 Ė remove the alternator

Additional text to follow





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Old 04-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default Step 11 Ė remove the water pump

Additional text to follow



Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:05 AM
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Default Step 12 Ė remove the PCV tubing

Additional text to follow











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Default Step 13 Ė remove the brake power booster vacuum hose

The vacuum line can be gently pulled out of the brake booster:



Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:05 AM
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Default Step 14 Ė remove the fuel line

Using a 5/16Ē fuel line disconnect tool, remove the fuel line from the fuel rail:



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Default Step 15 Ė remove the spark plugs

No picture included, no picture necessary.

While this step could be considered optional, I like to take them out as I’ve broken a few (more than once) while trying to remove the exhaust manifolds.

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Old 04-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Default Step 16 Ė remove the coil packs, spark plug wires and oxygen sensors

My car no longer have oxygen sensors so I donít have pictures, but the connectors are pretty close to the coil pack connectors as shown by the arrow in the following picture:



Remove all the spark plug wires from each side, pretty straightforward:



Remove the five 10mm studs holding the coil packs onto the valve covers. Iím only using three bolts on each side, hence the reason thereís only three shown:


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Old 04-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Default Step 17 Ė remove the fuel injector connectors

Remove each of the fuel injector connectors by squeezing on them and then pulling:




Picture showing how it looks after all of the injector connectors have been removed:


Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Default Step 18 Ė remove the MAP sensor and TB connector

Remove the connector as shown below. Also disconnect the throttle body connector which is just out of the frame:



Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Default Step 19 Ė remove the intake manifold and oil pressure sending unit

I list this step as optional as Iíve known some people who have gotten the motor out with it still installed. Since it takes less than five minutes to remove I usually just go ahead and take it off.

There are five 8 mm bolts on either side:





While the front five bolts can be removed completely the rear one on either side will not as itíll hit the cowl when you try to take it out.

Using either a socket and swivel or small wrench as shown below, loosen both of the rear bolts so they at least can be pulled up and out of the manifold:



After the eight bolts are completely out, lift the two rear bolts up and out of the head which will allow you to start removing the intake manifold. Initially youíll run into some resistance and that due to the rear brake booster line running into the oil pressure switch as shown in the next picture. Remove the oil pressure sending unit connector and youíll then be able to get the hose around it:


Last edited by [email protected]; 04-25-2018 at 11:40 AM.
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