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Is there a way to de-activate the one-to-four shift, so I can just shift normally from 1st to 2nd without being forced to go to 4th automatically when it reached 15 mph?
Yes there is. It involves replacing a particular fuse in the engine bay fuse block with a "blown" fuse of the kind that lights up when blown. Threre's a post on this forum somewhere... Worked great for me.
There are at least 3 ways to defeat the CAGS. A tuner can change when it wants to engage to some set of conditions that never happen. This has the advantage that the light on the dash never shows up but is the most expensive. Then there is the inline connector that you put in back at the transmission that adds enough resistance that the solenoid never engages. Third there are the fuses. That's what I did and it's worked exactly as it should.
In line connector (resistor) back at the trans not needed, and that was only required on the C5's since there was more than just the cags solenoid circuit on the #10 fuse in the fuse box.
So all you need to do is pull the #10, 10amp fuse in the engine fuse box on the C6, and install a 2.2ohm resistor type fuse in it place. https://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
Hence the 2.2ohm still allow the car to see the cags solenoid when it checks it on the circuit, but not to send enough power to the solenoid to allow it to active and block you out of second and third when the shift light comes on in the dash.
Or, during a tune, you just change the cags activation perimeters in the tune so the 1-4 shift cages does not active isntead.
Yes there is. It involves replacing a particular fuse in the engine bay fuse block with a "blown" fuse of the kind that lights up when blown. Threre's a post on this forum somewhere... Worked great for me.
There are at least 3 ways to defeat the CAGS. A tuner can change when it wants to engage to some set of conditions that never happen. This has the advantage that the light on the dash never shows up but is the most expensive. Then there is the inline connector that you put in back at the transmission that adds enough resistance that the solenoid never engages. Third there are the fuses. That's what I did and it's worked exactly as it should.
In line connector (resistor) back at the trans not needed, and that was only required on the C5's since there was more than just the cags solenoid circuit on the #10 fuse in the fuse box.
So all you need to do is pull the #10, 10amp fuse in the engine fuse box on the C6, and install a 2.2ohm resistor type fuse in it place. https://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
Hence the 2.2ohm still allow the car to see the cags solenoid when it checks it on the circuit, but not to send enough power to the solenoid to allow it to active and block you out of second and third when the shift light comes on in the dash.
Or, during a tune, you just change the cags activation perimeters in the tune so the 1-4 shift cages does not active isntead.
Probably, but it takes longer to walk into the auto parts store and buy the fuse then it does to replace the fuse. Just do it yourself.
To "blow" the fuse I used a pocket knife to reach between the two metal contacts and broke the connection inside the fuse.
A Corvette place here says they can install a "CAGS By-Pass" in the area of the transmission to solve the problem. Cost is $80, parts and labor. Have you had any experience with this?
A Corvette place here says they can install a "CAGS By-Pass" in the area of the transmission to solve the problem. Cost is $80, parts and labor. Have you had any experience with this?
Yes there is. It involves replacing a particular fuse in the engine bay fuse block with a "blown" fuse of the kind that lights up when blown. Threre's a post on this forum somewhere... Worked great for me.
A Corvette place here says they can install a "CAGS By-Pass" in the area of the transmission to solve the problem. Cost is $80, parts and labor. Have you had any experience with this?
There are at least 3 ways to defeat the CAGS. A tuner can change when it wants to engage to some set of conditions that never happen. This has the advantage that the light on the dash never shows up but is the most expensive. Then there is the inline connector that you put in back at the transmission that adds enough resistance that the solenoid never engages. Third there are the fuses. That's what I did and it's worked exactly as it should.
A Corvette place here says they can install a "CAGS By-Pass" in the area of the transmission to solve the problem. Cost is $80, parts and labor. Have you had any experience with this?
A Corvette place here says they can install a "CAGS By-Pass" in the area of the transmission to solve the problem. Cost is $80, parts and labor. Have you had any experience with this?
That doesn't sound unreasonable. The parts are $20 or less for the "kit" and $60 labor as a minimum charge isn't out of the question for a "Corvette shop." I don't know how they break it down.
A minor change to driving habits can eliminate the need for the bypass solution. The only time it seems to bother people is in "stop and go traffic." Just drive in 2nd gear in that situation and don't shift at all. That's what I've done in the C6 that I occasionally drive, and in another vehicle (Camaro) that had the same "feature" in the 6 speed manual transmission. It's actually easier to drive that way, not nearly as much monkey motion with shifting gears.
You don't have to post the same question 5x, we all will read it regardless.
$80 isn't crazy but it's literally a fuse.. you can do it yourself, no reason to go to a "corvette shop". There's nothing special about these cars that require it for something like this.
The only downside to the blown smart fuse method I experienced was that the LED seemed to eventually die and I'd have to replace the fuse with another. Not a big deal but something to note as it will throw a code when the LED dies.
I stopped replacing them after a few went out and just changed my driving habits to rarely encounter the 1-4 skip then eventually just disabled it in the tune when I got HPTuners.
One-to-four shift
