I used this option a year ago. Still works fine. Easiest Diy ever!! I used a tiny drill bit to break connection.. I made a few extra but have not had to use them. Why pay $80 bucks for this? How lazy are we?

 

After you install the fuse, does the 1 to 4 shift light stay on, or does it automatically go off.

 

Dash light will come on, but CAGS solenoid will not block you out of 2nd or third gear since there is not enough power going to it to engage, due to the resistor.
as for dash light, 1-4 light will go out after you shift.

So to keep the light from coming on in the dash itself, you have to change the cags disable TPS percentage in the tune, to the keep the Cags demand from coming on in the first place. Hence the system is designed to only come on when you don't have the gas pedal down far enough, so by changing the TPS disable percentage, this keeps the Cag system from coming on in the first place. With the 2.2ohn resistor, system thinks that it working fine, so light comes on, but since not enough power can get to the actual solenoid to block you out of the gears, you can shift it 2 and 3 without problems isntead (with the 1-4 dash light on).

As for dealer, they are not allow to disable the Cags system, since it's a system GM put in place so the Vet did not get hit with gas gulser tax. But you can disable it yourself by just changing the 10 amp fuse to a 2.2ohm resitor type fuse in the engine bay fuse box as pointed out.

As for changing the TPS disable percentage so the 1-4 light does not come on/system does not engage in the first place, that take something like HP tuner or EFI live to change the Cags TPS disable percentage setting.

 

Hah! Was just out to replace the courtesy lights fuse and noticed a red, 10a fuse glowing. Sweet! Pulled it out and put in a new one, courtesy lights all happy again, swapped out the correct fuse in the engine compartment for this fix. I'll see how it does tomorrow afternoon. I'm glad i checked this thread though, I grabbed fuse 10 first

 

I changed out the fuse with a "blown" fuse, and it worked fine. When I turned off the engine, and turned it back on later, I got a "check engine" light on the dash. Ran the codes, and it said "EVAP". We then cleared the codes, and no more problems. I did notice afterwards, though, that the car was running a little hotter than normal in stop-n-go driving (< 50 MPH and ~2000 RPM). Normally, the coolant temp will be 199-205 deg F. Now it's 203-209 degrees. Don't know if the aux. fan has been affected. When I accelerate to > 50 MPH, it goes back to normal.
Any thoughts about the elevated temp?

 

Start the motor, turn the A/C on, and make sure that the raditor ran is running (A/C will turn the raditor fan on even if the motor is cold).

As for your temps, there are normal since the motor wants to run about 210* to start with, and 50MPH and above, you have more air moving through the radiator than the fan would be normally pulling throw it, and why the motor is running colder

As for the normal 210*, it a good evaporating point to evaperate off the impurities in the motor oil so the can be sucked out to keep the oil cleaner longer instead . Hence when you shut the car down and the motor oil cools off, humidity from the air will cause water in the oil. With the motor running at 210 normal temps, it boils the water and gas out of the oil so the PCV system can pull it out, and again, keep the oil much cleaner instead.

 

Highly doubt anything is any different, you're probably just paying attention more now than usual, perhaps just on a particularly hot or humid day or something.