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Instrument Cluster Doesn't Work

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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 03:07 PM
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Default Instrument Cluster Doesn't Work

What up Everyone?

Over the past year my instrument cluster on my 2010 GS would stop working. Sometimes tapping the dash over the cluster would get it working again, sometimes I had to remove the cluster/reinstall it and it would start working. Well, the damn thing is doing it again and what has worked in the past no longer works. I tried removing/reinstalling it, the cluster lights up but as soon as I move it back into the dash to secure it, the damn thing goes out again. I'm 99% sure it's a loose connection and I think I have it narrowed down to which connector. There are two connectors right behind the tach and speedometer (gray and black), and it seems to be the gray cluster. When I trace the wires from the connector into the wiring harness, I see this thing:



What the hell are these orange things and can I open them with a flat head without screwing them up? I feel like the connection is loose in one of them.... Btw, the HUD works fine and the battery is new. Any thoughts and/or advice are greatly appreciated, thanks!

Whiteboy

Last edited by whiteboy444; Nov 30, 2018 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Added model and year of vette
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 08:42 PM
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The red/orange things are subline connectors, so it is possible that one or more of those are not making a good connection on the wires.
You can unclasps those to check that good connectioons are indeed being made with the wiring.
Using those are not ideal, but an easy way to add a component. Only soldered wire connections with shrink wrap on top of the soldered connection are the best way to assure that a bad connection will not exist.
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 4SUMERZ
The red/orange things are subline connectors, so it is possible that one or more of those are not making a good connection on the wires.
You can unclasps those to check that good connectioons are indeed being made with the wiring.
Using those are not ideal, but an easy way to add a component. Only soldered wire connections with shrink wrap on top of the soldered connection are the best way to assure that a bad connection will not exist.
Awesome! Thanks for the help, I’m gonna check them out tomorrow!
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