Brake Upgrade - base car
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
Brake Upgrade - base car
Hey Folks,
I have a 2010 base with stock brakes - no J55 option. In preparation for participating in more autocross events, I would like to upgrade my brakes when my current ones are spent.
Considerations:
My budget is $1,000, tops!
Thank you,
I have a 2010 base with stock brakes - no J55 option. In preparation for participating in more autocross events, I would like to upgrade my brakes when my current ones are spent.
Considerations:
- OEM J55 conversion (Z51 brakes); if I did this, I would include the minimally different rear calipers as well
- StopTech stage 2
- These are said to fit the stock calipers, so I assume that the rotors are the stock size as well. Since these rotors are slotted, wouldn't they actually decrease braking performance since there would be less surface area in contact with the brake pads? As I understand, to get more stopping power with slotted or drilled rotors, they have to be bigger than the solid ones they replace.
My budget is $1,000, tops!
Thank you,
Last edited by KingCorvette93; Mar 27, 2019 at 05:23 AM.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 50,281
Likes: 518
From: Cleveland OH
St. Jude Donor '11,'13
All you need is a plain face rotor such as the Centric premium brand rotors and some great pads such as the Carbotech AX6 pads. This will fit your budget with change left over and be very effective for Auto X.
Front: CT731 $163.40
Rear CT732 $140.60
Carbotech™ AX6™
The AX6™ is specifically engineered for Autocross applications. A high torque brake compound delivering reliable and consistent performance over a very wide operating temperature range of 50°F to 1000°F + (10°C to 537°C+). The advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial bite, high coefficient of friction at lower temperatures along with very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. Many drivers use the AX6™ for street driving as well, even though Carbotech™ doesn't recommend street driving with AX6™ due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. AX6™ is NOT recommended as a race compound in most applications.Front: CT731 $163.40
Rear CT732 $140.60
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
Why would new solid rotors make a difference? Aren't all solid rotors of the same size the same performance? Or can they be made of different material that influences performance?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 303
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From: Arizona
. Since these rotors are slotted, wouldn't they actually decrease braking performance since there would be less surface area in contact with the brake pads? As I understand, to get more stopping power with slotted or drilled rotors, they have to be bigger than the solid ones they replace.
Drilled / slotted are worth it even for the same size. They aren't going to change the world, but since you plan on racing it a bit more, the extra heat you are dumping into them means they will last longer, get you through more events.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
Slotted and/or crossdrilled rotors are designed to let the dust and gas that builds up behind the pads a place to escape. In addition to the improved cooling they allow. The reduction in surface area is offset by the fact that you can brake longer / harder without any fade. Yes, technically there is less surface area, but after the first time you press the brake pedal under stress, the heat buildup combined with the dust and chemical breakdown of the pads due to heat and friction (ie: exactly their purpose) will reduce their theoretical braking power as well. The 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc times you step on the pedal, slotted / crossdrilled will provide better stopping even with the same rotor size compared to flat discs.
Drilled / slotted are worth it even for the same size. They aren't going to change the world, but since you plan on racing it a bit more, the extra heat you are dumping into them means they will last longer, get you through more events.
Drilled / slotted are worth it even for the same size. They aren't going to change the world, but since you plan on racing it a bit more, the extra heat you are dumping into them means they will last longer, get you through more events.
Think I am going to g with the StopTech package.
Any other similar package recommendations?
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 296
Likes: 87
I went with KNS Rotors (Blank DBA T3's) and Carbotech 1521's. I have a 08 base non Z-51 as well.
Such a great improvement. For 1000 your not going to see that much more performance. Ask yourself, is it worth spending 2-3k for a 5% maybe 10% increase in braking performance?
Such a great improvement. For 1000 your not going to see that much more performance. Ask yourself, is it worth spending 2-3k for a 5% maybe 10% increase in braking performance?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 738
Likes: 226
From: Coast of San Mateo CA
Check out the TPS Motorsports Brake section very good options and Great Prices.
Rotor choices for your base or Z51 Brakes Plain,drilled,slotted or combo.
3 choices in Pads, Stainless Steel Lines for a firmer more consistent
pressure, and brake fluid choices as well.
I am getting for my C6 DD and recommending, Slotted Rotors, the pads selected for your
application, Stainless Steel Lines and AMSOIL Dot 3/4 Brake Fluid.
~> $450.00
They also have bracketry necessary to upgrade to the larger Z51 Rotors.
Rotor choices for your base or Z51 Brakes Plain,drilled,slotted or combo.
3 choices in Pads, Stainless Steel Lines for a firmer more consistent
pressure, and brake fluid choices as well.
I am getting for my C6 DD and recommending, Slotted Rotors, the pads selected for your
application, Stainless Steel Lines and AMSOIL Dot 3/4 Brake Fluid.
~> $450.00
They also have bracketry necessary to upgrade to the larger Z51 Rotors.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
Likes: 83
From: Tallahassee, Florida
Check out the TPS Motorsports Brake section very good options and Great Prices.
Rotor choices for your base or Z51 Brakes Plain,drilled,slotted or combo.
3 choices in Pads, Stainless Steel Lines for a firmer more consistent
pressure, and brake fluid choices as well.
I am getting for my C6 DD and recommending, Slotted Rotors, the pads selected for your
application, Stainless Steel Lines and AMSOIL Dot 3/4 Brake Fluid.
~> $450.00
They also have bracketry necessary to upgrade to the larger Z51 Rotors.
Rotor choices for your base or Z51 Brakes Plain,drilled,slotted or combo.
3 choices in Pads, Stainless Steel Lines for a firmer more consistent
pressure, and brake fluid choices as well.
I am getting for my C6 DD and recommending, Slotted Rotors, the pads selected for your
application, Stainless Steel Lines and AMSOIL Dot 3/4 Brake Fluid.
~> $450.00
They also have bracketry necessary to upgrade to the larger Z51 Rotors.
Should I go for slotted, slotted and drilled, just drilled? Dimpled seems useless; I read that it is mainly for trucks and SUVs!
I would like the total Z51 conversion, but I would want to do it completely right - swapping out the base, rear 45 mm piston for the Z51 42 mm piston. This, plus the brackets, yields a nominal performance increase for a lot of money.
Last edited by KingCorvette93; Mar 27, 2019 at 08:22 PM.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 738
Likes: 226
From: Coast of San Mateo CA
Slotted only is what I am running and recommending, combined with the appropriate pad and SS lines with good
fluid is a significant upgrade at a minimal cost. That leaves the remainder for Z06 Shocks & Z51 Sway Bars
with metal end links for another great cost/benefit upgrade.
fluid is a significant upgrade at a minimal cost. That leaves the remainder for Z06 Shocks & Z51 Sway Bars
with metal end links for another great cost/benefit upgrade.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
Likes: 83
From: Tallahassee, Florida
Slotted only is what I am running and recommending, combined with the appropriate pad and SS lines with good
fluid is a significant upgrade at a minimal cost. That leaves the remainder for Z06 Shocks & Z51 Sway Bars
with metal end links for another great cost/benefit upgrade.
fluid is a significant upgrade at a minimal cost. That leaves the remainder for Z06 Shocks & Z51 Sway Bars
with metal end links for another great cost/benefit upgrade.
Also, thank you to everyone else!
I am forgoing the Z51 conversion, instead going with new pads, slotted rotors, SS lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid.
Pads:
StopTech Street or Hawk HPS?
Last edited by KingCorvette93; Mar 28, 2019 at 06:24 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
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Motul RBF600 fluid is over kill (594* dry boiling point) and will be fine with Prestone dot 4 that has a boiling point of 510 dry for what your going to be using the car for.
Hence takes about a quart of fluid every two years to power bleed the fluid per the service manual as needed, or after a week of autocross, and Motul RBF600 for a quart is going to cost you about $80. Quart of Prestone dot 4 is about $16 instead, and comes in handy while you are doing the ranger method clutch fluid flushes as well.
Hence takes about a quart of fluid every two years to power bleed the fluid per the service manual as needed, or after a week of autocross, and Motul RBF600 for a quart is going to cost you about $80. Quart of Prestone dot 4 is about $16 instead, and comes in handy while you are doing the ranger method clutch fluid flushes as well.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
Likes: 83
From: Tallahassee, Florida
Motul RBF600 fluid is over kill (594* dry boiling point) and will be fine with Prestone dot 4 that has a boiling point of 510 dry for what your going to be using the car for.
Hence takes about a quart of fluid every two years to power bleed the fluid per the service manual as needed, or after a week of autocross, and Motul RBF600 for a quart is going to cost you about $80. Quart of Prestone dot 4 is about $16 instead, and comes in handy while you are doing the ranger method clutch fluid flushes as well.
Hence takes about a quart of fluid every two years to power bleed the fluid per the service manual as needed, or after a week of autocross, and Motul RBF600 for a quart is going to cost you about $80. Quart of Prestone dot 4 is about $16 instead, and comes in handy while you are doing the ranger method clutch fluid flushes as well.
Can I just use this stuff?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Brake fluid boiling points, so you can look at bang for buck (hence the Prestone dot 4 the winner with boiling point verses price).
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm
As for brake fluid, has a short life once you open the bottle, since that point forward, will be pulling the humidity out of the air to add water to the fluid.
So in your case, would say to buy the fluid in the pint size bottle, and only open each bottle as needed, and throw it away once it has been open for say 6 months. I do enough brake and clutch power bleeds over the year to jusify just buying the quart size bottles of fluid, but for someone that may be only doing the ranger flushes every few months, and not power bleeding the brakes until the 2 year point, buy the fluid in the pint size bottle.
As for the A/C delco fluid, your not saying if it dot 3 or dot 4, and really don't have a clue on the boiling point of the fluid to start with, nor how long the bottle has been open and collecting moisture/water. Hence this is the reason that you power bleed the brake fluid every two year (including cycling the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it, since it may have some rubber in it from seal wear, but the bigger problem is the amount of water is has absorbed from the moisture in the air instead.
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm
As for brake fluid, has a short life once you open the bottle, since that point forward, will be pulling the humidity out of the air to add water to the fluid.
So in your case, would say to buy the fluid in the pint size bottle, and only open each bottle as needed, and throw it away once it has been open for say 6 months. I do enough brake and clutch power bleeds over the year to jusify just buying the quart size bottles of fluid, but for someone that may be only doing the ranger flushes every few months, and not power bleeding the brakes until the 2 year point, buy the fluid in the pint size bottle.
As for the A/C delco fluid, your not saying if it dot 3 or dot 4, and really don't have a clue on the boiling point of the fluid to start with, nor how long the bottle has been open and collecting moisture/water. Hence this is the reason that you power bleed the brake fluid every two year (including cycling the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it, since it may have some rubber in it from seal wear, but the bigger problem is the amount of water is has absorbed from the moisture in the air instead.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
Likes: 83
From: Tallahassee, Florida
Brake fluid boiling points, so you can look at bang for buck (hence the Prestone dot 4 the winner with boiling point verses price).
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm
As for brake fluid, has a short life once you open the bottle, since that point forward, will be pulling the humidity out of the air to add water to the fluid.
So in your case, would say to buy the fluid in the pint size bottle, and only open each bottle as needed, and throw it away once it has been open for say 6 months. I do enough brake and clutch power bleeds over the year to jusify just buying the quart size bottles of fluid, but for someone that may be only doing the ranger flushes every few months, and not power bleeding the brakes until the 2 year point, buy the fluid in the pint size bottle.
As for the A/C delco fluid, your not saying if it dot 3 or dot 4, and really don't have a clue on the boiling point of the fluid to start with, nor how long the bottle has been open and collecting moisture/water. Hence this is the reason that you power bleed the brake fluid every two year (including cycling the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it, since it may have some rubber in it from seal wear, but the bigger problem is the amount of water is has absorbed from the moisture in the air instead.
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ison-chart.cfm
As for brake fluid, has a short life once you open the bottle, since that point forward, will be pulling the humidity out of the air to add water to the fluid.
So in your case, would say to buy the fluid in the pint size bottle, and only open each bottle as needed, and throw it away once it has been open for say 6 months. I do enough brake and clutch power bleeds over the year to jusify just buying the quart size bottles of fluid, but for someone that may be only doing the ranger flushes every few months, and not power bleeding the brakes until the 2 year point, buy the fluid in the pint size bottle.
As for the A/C delco fluid, your not saying if it dot 3 or dot 4, and really don't have a clue on the boiling point of the fluid to start with, nor how long the bottle has been open and collecting moisture/water. Hence this is the reason that you power bleed the brake fluid every two year (including cycling the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it, since it may have some rubber in it from seal wear, but the bigger problem is the amount of water is has absorbed from the moisture in the air instead.
Race Director
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 484
From: NY
For a typical (short) autocross course, I can't imagine needing more than pads and fluid as mentioned above.
Unless on a road course where brake fade could occur, a bigger factor in stopping ability would be your tires. Try researching good tires for autocross.
Unless on a road course where brake fade could occur, a bigger factor in stopping ability would be your tires. Try researching good tires for autocross.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 558
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From: Tallahassee, Florida
I have a brand new set of Hankook Ventus V12! Not as sticky as Michelin Super Sports, but they do ok!