Headers to go with ??
Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 388
Likes: 164
From: Maryville, TN
Running LG Street Series here - can't say enough about the value. Don't think they're best solution if going big cam / FI power down the road, but they've been a great solution for my goals. Good TQ gains down low in addition to the HP. Great fit too!
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,326
Likes: 523
From: home
My preference is ARH. Whatever brand you choose, here a few things I do when installing headers:
1- wrap the starter housing and solenoid.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel, between the 4th and 5th bolt, and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, heat shield #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts and the oxygen sensors.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. Depending on header brand, I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. Not required on aluminum frame cars.
1- wrap the starter housing and solenoid.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel, between the 4th and 5th bolt, and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, heat shield #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts and the oxygen sensors.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. Depending on header brand, I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. Not required on aluminum frame cars.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,446
Likes: 371
From: Maryville TN
St. Jude Donor '06-13,'16-'17, '19
Tom
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,326
Likes: 523
From: home
Some or all may not be needed on a street driven car. A trackday/race Corvette is another story. I've seen burned and melted wiring, brittle heater hoses, melted clutch slave hoses, and O2 harness connectors melted together. This is from experience with doing 100's of header installs and engine replacements.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 577
Likes: 34
Some or all may not be needed on a street driven car. A trackday/race Corvette is another story. I've seen burned and melted wiring, brittle heater hoses, melted clutch slave hoses, and O2 harness connectors melted together. This is from experience with doing 100's of header installs and engine replacements.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 261
From: Miami Florida
I bought ARH and both leaked from all 4 so I had to cut the collectors to weld from inside and re weld the collectors, when ARH told me to send them back it meant with out the car for 3 weeks and paying shipping I decided to fix it myself the manufacturer decline to reimburse a very reasonable welder's charge but that's not the worse part.
The worth is having to remove the starter, the left side knock sensor lifting up the motor and lowering the cradle every time you have to remove or install them.
I sold them and got Kooks they are so easy to install don't have to remove the starter the knock sensor lower the cradle or lift up the engine they do seat a 1/2 inch lower at the collector clamp than I like but I have never hit them so is nothing to worry about imo.
Note worthy about the kooks is if you loose your handle during installation they will fall straight to the floor (I love that)
Kooks.
The worth is having to remove the starter, the left side knock sensor lifting up the motor and lowering the cradle every time you have to remove or install them.
I sold them and got Kooks they are so easy to install don't have to remove the starter the knock sensor lower the cradle or lift up the engine they do seat a 1/2 inch lower at the collector clamp than I like but I have never hit them so is nothing to worry about imo.
Note worthy about the kooks is if you loose your handle during installation they will fall straight to the floor (I love that)
Kooks.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 401
Likes: 79
From: Northeast PA
ARH also & they fit really well... I did 75% of what 3x2 did... anything in very close proximity to primaries or x-pipe was heat-shielded, used DEI sleeves & sticky foil, including O2 sensor wires/connectors, clutch line, oil & trans cooler lines, etc. I was under it with everything out so it was pretty easy to do. Adding the tunnel plate shield DRAMATICALLY reduced inside cabin temp, & the console not even warm, where before it was almost too hot to the touch. I constructed 24in high stands that I somehow lifted the car high enough to make it easy to slide the headers in from underneath... car has been as reliable as any vehicle I've ever owned...