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Clutch Install Question

Old Jun 12, 2019 | 07:31 AM
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Default Clutch Install Question

Hello. I am going to be doing a clutch install on my 2011 GS in the next couple of days and I have a question.

Is it necessary to remove the mufflers/rear exhaust or can they stay in the car? The reason I ask is when I did a clutch install in my C5 Z06, I left them in and just zip tied them out of the way.

I have done a C5 clutch install and I have read the excellent clutch install write-up by member rpmextra located at this link: C6 clutch replace with full pics

I don't have a lift so will be doing this on jack stands and am trying to save myself any extra work I can.

(Going to be installing a Monster LT1-S twin disk as I think my stock clutch is slipping since I installed an E-force.)
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 09:58 AM
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Let me know how you like that clutch. I've been eyeballing that one for my GS of my stocker flips upside down
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 10:02 AM
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I think you have to remove the mid pipe at least because of where it runs in relation to the driveshaft. Do a search and there should be a full write up on replacing the clutch on a C6. Pretty good details.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
....Is it necessary to remove the mufflers/rear exhaust or can they stay in the car? The reason I ask is when I did a clutch install in my C5 Z06, I left them in and just zip tied them out of the way.
I have done a C5 clutch install .....
I have done both a C5 and C6 and they are nearly the same. I removed the mufflers (the entire exhaust) both times as to me it is almost no amount of extra work compared to the job of changing the clutch. Also the on the C6 mufflers are in the center could be in the way when you're trying to back out the trans and torque tube.

Jack stands are high enough if you're going to do it that way. If I remember I had about 23" of height.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
I have done both a C5 and C6 and they are nearly the same. I removed the mufflers (the entire exhaust) both times as to me it is almost no amount of extra work compared to the job of changing the clutch. Also the on the C6 mufflers are in the center could be in the way when you're trying to back out the trans and torque tube.

Jack stands are high enough if you're going to do it that way. If I remember I had about 23" of height.
Ah, okay then that makes sense. I will probably have to lower the rear cradle and then remove the rear mufflers. Thanks.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jaybee924
Let me know how you like that clutch. I've been eyeballing that one for my GS of my stocker flips upside down
Everything I have read, most people like it and it has a stock feel. As I understand it, the LT1-S is the stock clutch used in the C7 just with a custom machined flywheel to make it work with the C6. I will report back once I have it installed.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
Ah, okay then that makes sense. I will probably have to lower the rear cradle and then remove the rear mufflers. Thanks.

Ohhhhh wait a minuted I didn't think of that. Do you still have the stock mufflers on??? I believe the over the axle part is welded on to the muffler. You will probably definitely have lower the cradle if you are on jack stands to get the mufflers out.

I have after market CORSA mufflers and the over the axle pipe and mufflers are separate and easily removed without much clearance.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
Ohhhhh wait a minuted I didn't think of that. Do you still have the stock mufflers on??? I believe the over the axle part is welded on to the muffler. You will probably definitely have lower the cradle if you are on jack stands to get the mufflers out.

I have after market CORSA mufflers and the over the axle pipe and mufflers are separate and easily removed without much clearance.
Yes, stock NPP mufflers. I will lower the rear cradle and that should give me the clearance to get the mufflers out.

So far I have the cats, mid pipe, tunnel plate out. Not a technically difficult job, just a lot to get out of the way to get to the clutch.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 07:45 PM
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Let me know how its going. I just got done doing my 05 ( ls 7 upgrade clutch) about a month ago. I'll be happy to give you any insight that hopefully will help if you want.

Last edited by Dutch08; Jun 13, 2019 at 07:51 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
Let me know how its going. I just got done doing my 05 ( ls 7 upgrade clutch) about a month ago. I'll be happy to give you any insight that hopefully will help if you want.
Well, got the clutch installed and the car back together. Didn't have too much trouble other than getting the torque tube lined up and slid back in. That took me a few hours of fighting with it; it looked lined up but the front part of the shaft that goes into the pilot bearing just wasn't quite lined up. It finally popped into place.

Getting the bell housing out was not too bad. Lowering the front subframe gave me enough room to get all the bolts out and then I was able to wiggle it out. Putting the bell housing back on was much easier as the LT1-S clutch is a good inch or more smaller in diameter.
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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jaybee924
Let me know how you like that clutch. I've been eyeballing that one for my GS of my stocker flips upside down
So far I like it. It does have a stock feel, maybe slightly more pedal effort but not much more. You remove the factory clutch assist spring so that helps. Engagement seems to closer to the top of the pedal travel but that's okay. It does have a bit of chatter at idle (which is normal) but once you press the clutch in that noise goes away. Monster rated the noise at idle as a 3 out of 5 and from what I have read the noise is quite common with multi-disk clutches.

Only took the car for a quick drive just to make sure everything is working okay. My stock GS/LS7 clutch was definitely slipping and not holding the power from the E-force. This clutch holds it no problem. Before, the tires wouldn't break loose very easy and it just didn't feel like the car had the power it should; I suspected with the warmer temps my Super Sports were hooking up and the clutch was slipping. Now the clutch is holding great and the tires are easily breaking loose. Car is completely different now that the power is getting to the wheels.

Definitely, a nice upgrade.
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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
Well, got the clutch installed and the car back together. Didn't have too much trouble other than getting the torque tube lined up and slid back in. That took me a few hours of fighting with it; it looked lined up but the front part of the shaft that goes into the pilot bearing just wasn't quite lined up. It finally popped into place.

Getting the bell housing out was not too bad. Lowering the front subframe gave me enough room to get all the bolts out and then I was able to wiggle it out. Putting the bell housing back on was much easier as the LT1-S clutch is a good inch or more smaller in diameter.
Excellent!!
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 07:20 AM
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So quick update. The rattling/chatter I thought was coming from the clutch actually is not. The clutch is completely silent. The sound I am hearing is gear rollover. Because the LT1-S uses a 1-piece flywheel instead of a 2-piece, drivetrain pulses from the engine idling are not dampened and these pulses are making it to the gears of the trans. This makes the gears twist back and forth making them tap against one another. Kind of sounds like marbles in a can. But this is completely normal. Verified by tech support at Monster.
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 09:04 AM
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Yeah, I was about to say... mine is nearly silent. It did get a little noisier once I added the cam for whatever reason, but it's a very quiet setup. Stock pedal feel/drivability, no issues. I am a fan of this line of clutches.
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