When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wanted to say thanks to anyone's post I've used to get here, this is my first post. As the title states, i'm in the middle of the dreaded harmonic balancer removal. I'm all the way down to getting off and the new one will be here next week. My crank is pinned already, and i can't seem to find any definitive answers what to do. I will be using: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-C2501 for the new one. It has a "key", so do i just align it with the old notch? Or just ignore and by a Crank pinning kit and make a new pin somewhere else? Thanks to any direction you can provide.
The keyway that is machined in your new balancer will be much larger than the half-hole that was drilled into your crankshaft from the old pinning job .... So, as 'russ472' mentioned ... You will need to get a pinning fixture and re-pin the new balancer to the crank.
However, if you don't plan on installing a supercharger in the future, pinning certainly is not required.
Thank you for the responses. The car has a pro-charger on it, so i will be needing to pin. So, out of curiosity - why the big "key hole" on the balancer if i'm basically going to be ignoring it? I'm assuming there are some cranks with a machine dslot?
No LS based engines that I know of that have a keyway in the balancer and crankshaft.
I think these aftermarket companies just automatically install a keyway in their balancers because the majority of other engines are keyed from the factory.
I just installed this balancer a few weeks ago, seemed like it is built well. I also recommend putting a little red rtv in the key-way on the balancer to ensure there are no oil leaks. Not too bad overall to install. Take your time and try not to swear too much while reinstalling the power steering pump! LOL Oh, and pick up an ARP balancer bolt as its reusable and great quality!
Thanks! Just to clarify - i always over think this stuff. Thread lube on the beginning of the bolt and the last few threads with red loctite (and also in the keyway)? I appreciate the picture.
Thanks! Just to clarify - i always over think this stuff. Thread lube on the beginning of the bolt and the last few threads with red loctite (and also in the keyway)? I appreciate the picture.
I didn’t use red locktite at all. Just some red RTV in the keyway of the balancer before I installed it so you don’t have any oil leaks. If you don’t have a supercharger you don’t need to use red locktite or pin the balancer. Just install it per the instructions and torque the balancer bolt to spec.
The has a procharger on it, so instead of the red RTV, i'll be using the loctite instead. The pin kit is ordered as well. Did you just fill the keyway before you pushed it on? Did you use the old bolt to start it and then the new bolt?
The has a procharger on it, so instead of the red RTV, i'll be using the loctite instead. The pin kit is ordered as well. Did you just fill the keyway before you pushed it on? Did you use the old bolt to start it and then the new bolt?
I believe since you are pinning the crank you shouldn’t need the red locktite. I am not a big fan of red locktite as it’s really hard to remove if you need to change something (cam, oil pump etc) later. I used an arp bolt and followed the instruction within the bolt. I used an install threaded bold and nut to install it and then torqued the arp bolt to the spec outlined in the arp instructions. Haven’t had any issues since the install.
Thank you! The ARP bolts for the water pump and balancer got here today. I'm just wrestling with how to put the bolt in, i think i'm going to use the ARP lube on the threads but probably use red loctite under the washer and to fill the keyway\new pins in the crank. I'm an I.T. guy by day shadetree mechanic by night, there's a million ways to do things. I'll probably fashion a piece of all thread to start it on, use the old bolt to 100lbs, then "dress" the new bolt and torque to 235lbs.
Hey guys. Wanted to update. Got the old Pulley off. Now to start putting back to together. Quick question - the new crank shaft seal - do i need to prep it with anything? oil on the outside? or just push up there and seat? Seems like some guys use a small bit of Black RTV on the outside.
Hey guys. Wanted to update. Got the old Pulley off. Now to start putting back to together. Quick question - the new crank shaft seal - do i need to prep it with anything? oil on the outside? or just push up there and seat? Seems like some guys use a small bit of Black RTV on the outside.
Great! I didn’t put anything on the new seal, just used a large socket and lightly hammered it on. No leaks or squeaks. Good luck!