They are paying for all of it. He is subtracting the extra I paid from labor, so I shouldnt be out any extra $, just time and stress

 

You really think we would do that. Get real! 🙄 We aren't perfect but Danny and I have been measuring and shimming or milling clutches before Spec even knew wtf was going on and wouldn't even acknowledge a spacing problem. JMS is gone from what I was told. But I really don't care about them. They do their own thing.
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Huncle J

I've done a number of these clutch LSX installs and a few upgrades. I recently installed a clutch kit in my son's ZO6 and a LS7 clutch kit with a SFI approved alloy flywheel in mine, plus a Monster 3 disk clutch kit with SFI flywheel, w a billet release bearing in my current '37 Chevy Coupe build which has a new LS3 performance crate engine with Nelson mirror image turbos. I"m a retired Engineer and a fanatic on perfection.

It takes me, by myself on my drive-on Lift about 6 to 8 hours to R&R a OEM style clutch kit on a C5 , a C6 is a little longer. But I have a part Check List and Dis-assembly / Assembly check list including tools required. But , if there's issues with exhaust bolts or ??, the time can be increased to 5 hours or longer very easily. I always check all the components and the speed bleed line, and a through check under the car, before I start anything. We have three Corvettes, my '56 210 has a LS! with a T56, and my '37 Coupe has a LS3 with a super mag T-56. We do all or own car repairs and builds and help close friends.

Also, Replacing the Flywheel Bolts is an absolute MUST. Be certain to verify.

So, let me go through based on your photos, what has happened. I'm going to be very blunt

First, From looking at your photo, I see your transmission is sitting on the floor. One does not need to remove the trans-axle to R&R a clutch kit ! A waist of time and money. Trans-axle with torque tube can be supported and moved rewards.

Next, the Hydraulic Release Bearing is clearly seen on the bottom of the bell housing. As posted, this is Impossible if it was properly placed on the transmission main shaft !! Therefore the release bearing was improperly installed by someone who obviously should have know better ! This person was probably pushing the trans-axle forward and it most probably jerked forward and Knocked the Release Bearing of the main shaft and it fell and was caught on the Pressure Plate. The practice is too Always check Visually that the release bearing is properly on the transmission main shaft before the Unit, Torque Tube or Transmission is fully seated !!

If you wondering how the release bearing disengaged the clutch a few times, that's not complicated. The release bearing fell such that it landed on the pressure plate fingers . After a few clutch cycles, it snapped. I've personally seen this happen, it's almost always catastrophic. The person who test drove this car is lucky that pieces didn't pass through the aluminum alloy bell housing !!

IMHO, This SHOP needs to return your money and pay for the damages and any rental car expenses. \\

I don't know which retailer you purchased your parts, but it is best to request specific components to be installed and have the Auto Repair Shop purchase specified components. Else the you always be blamed for failures on. However, it's very clear that the release bearing is on the bottom of your bell housing. This one photo can get you $$$ returned.

Here are few photos of a Monster pressure plate (3 disc) and a billet release bearing. And yes, they do look very similar to a C5 or C6. This release bearing is shimmed by adding one brass conical spacer. I needed to add a shim because NHRA rules call for a Steel block saver Plate between the engine block and the T-56 transmission.

I have spoken with GM Engineers and Tremic Engineers. They insisted that It is "prudent" to check the release bearing clearance and bell housing alignment on every installation. But both had said they never or heard of a need for shims for a release bearing or offset bell housing dowels, With a GM bell housing and flywheel respectively. This is primary because the oem bell housing are cast and then precision machined.

Tremic loaned me, via Fed X, a T-56 transmission front plate so I could check the run out (alignment) on my LS3 and SFI flywheel, this was mandatory because I have a QT SFI approved steel bell housing. These are fabricated from two steel pieces in a jig and can be Not To Spec.

Lastly, I use a machined Clutch Disc Alignment Shaft, the plastic ones are a PITA....

Hope this clears up your concerns, let me know if you need anything else

Good Luck,

Michael..






.

 

!!

I guess maybe I don't read everything sometimes.

 

Here's the LT1-S three disc install instructions. Important to fully understand and follow exactly.

https://monsterclutches.com/lt1-trip...s-instructions

We do not recommend inexperienced technicians install these units, that said, if you get stuck or are not sure about something STOP IMMEDIATELY AND CONTACT US! Ignoring things or getting something wrong during the installation can be very costly in the end and is not covered under our warranty – when in doubt ASK!



- ON ALL SC, R, AND RR MULTI-DISC UNITS – DO NOT - FOR ANY REASON - REMOVE THE BOLTS ATTACHING THE UPPER FLOATER PLATE TO THE PRESSURE PLATE. DOING SO WILL RENDER THE CLUTCH USELESS AND WILL CAUSE A SEVERE IMBALANCE, IF YOU’VE DONE THIS DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE CLUTCH, CONTACT US IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!!!!



- DO NOT USE ARP hardware with our multi-disc units, using ARP flywheel bolts with this unit will cause immediate damage and failure as it will interfere with the lower disc. We’ve included modified GM flywheel bolts with your clutch, there is no need to use anything else.

 

I got the twin and read the instructions a few times on Monster’s site. It was just a fluke mistake by the shop. Hopefully it will all be sorted soon and I can get my car back and get down to breaking it in. Shouldnt take long as I live in stop and go traffic! Hoping to eventually have my own lift and be able to do more involved repairs/upgrades

 

The question that I would be asking myself is " Do I want the same shop to try again with this install"?

 

DITTO !

A Drive-on-Rack works great for Clutch kit installs on C4 & C5. I have a sliding Jack Plate, so the trans-axle is always level or where I need it to be. Plus the Brake Rotors gently rest on a piece on 3/5 plywood, this keeps the trans-axle steady.

One thing you might think about, And that is to start the engine when the clutch kit has been installed but not the Torque Tube assembly. Verify no Vibrations. I did a performance kit from another manufacturer for s good friend, and the maker failed to balance the pressure plate, resulting in a very heavy vibration...

Good Luck !

Michael

 

Well, I cant afford to just eat the labor. He already did rear main seal and axle seals and a few other things. I am a poorvette owner... at this point I am “pot committed” and have to ride it out...

 

After being in the business a long time:
Sucks that the mistake was made in the first place, but sh*t happens. It shouldn't, and hopefully not often, but it does happen in even the best garages.
And anyone telling you otherwise is either ignorant or lying.
The real test of good service is when things go wrong. If the shop will step up to cover their mistake, you should allow them the opportunity to make it right.

 

I wholeheartedly agree. They did slot a car in ahead of me while waiting on the clutch to get repaired/shipped back and they arent done with that car yet. So maybe have car back Wed., which will be 2.5 weeks for a 2 day job.

 

At least they appear to be trying to make it right

 

It's based on the LT1 twin disc clutch with a custom flywheel, etc. to make it fit on LS cars. It works extremely well, much better than the LS7 stuff did.

 

I agree with this.

 

Car is done! Pick it up tomorrow morning. With everything it came to $1870. Shop picked up all costs, including shipping, associated with install error.

Also replaced rear main seal/gasket, both axle output seals, and both diff cover seals....fluids, misc, tax.

not happy about being without my car for almost 3 weeks but excited to get it back! Hopefully smooth sailing from here on out.

clutch install was 15.5hrs at 100, tax was $56. Rest is in pic. Was quoted “around 1500 for clutch install and rear main seal”

 

Wow, they really stepped up to the plate. Good to hear that it's all set.

 

Picked up car this afternoon. My phone charging cable was under the center console and poking out the trim panel on right side (not how I dropped it off) and the traction control button was sitting higher up then normal and did not work when tested. Pointed it out to shop and they offered to order new tc button. I told em to hold off so I could see if I could fix it. When I pulled console tc button came out in pieces (14 year old plastic, heat from engine/trans made brittle). Ordered a new one for amazon for $17. Not too worried about assuming I can swap it out easy enough. Although initial efforts at trying to remove busted button didnt fare so well. Will examine more when new one arrives on Sat.

they also strongly recommended fresh plugs. I am about 100hp over stock so was think ls7 plugs (1 step colder than ls2 plugs)? Or just stick w/ stock?

Oh, new clutch is pretty light and engages near top. Seems to have narrow engagement window but guessing that will change slightly with break in

 

I would just do AC Delco zr1 plugs. I don’t remember the part number off hand.

 

Glad you got it back!
Yea, I don't want shops messing with my cars for the most part. Other than body work or machine shop work, they aren't touching my car because in my experience there is always something different about the car when it is returned.

 

This! And acquire the necessary tools and skills to be able to better maintain/understand your car.

I will be moving from Texas to Nebraska in 5 months, then the car will be put up for winter so I can do longer projects (it is my daily, so being without it for almost 3 weeks killed)