lock cylinder and key missing
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 16
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From: nor cal
lock cylinder and key missing
My 06 is stuck in after alarm lockout mode....swapped out a bad battery.....prior to that...had to reach in my open window to manually open door alarm sounded for 1-2 minutes and shut off...changed battery..and never got my fob's back...found the slot in the g-box, fob in--cars back...its now the only way to pwr car....after market installer looks like he mounted the backup camera where the cylinder lock WAS,,above the rear plate......is it possible I need this key lock to reset my security system ??? and get my fobs to be recognized again?/
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Slot in the back of the car above the plates, is to get in the car with a dead battery. Once you have the rear open with the key, pull handle to the left at the carpet that will open the drivers door. With drivers door open, you can pop the hood to jump the car. So yes, you want the rear cylinder in play.
As for fobs, which ones? Should have the fobs that start the car and unlock the doors, and then the fobs that work the after market alarm system. The OEM fobs are easy to replace, and can use a Tech II to program them in until the rear cylinder is replaced.
As for the alarm fobs, without them, may as well pull the alarm system back out of the car. Your after market alarm manufacturer maybe able to replace the fobs for the alarm system, but would not bank at it being a quick thing instead.
As for fobs, which ones? Should have the fobs that start the car and unlock the doors, and then the fobs that work the after market alarm system. The OEM fobs are easy to replace, and can use a Tech II to program them in until the rear cylinder is replaced.
As for the alarm fobs, without them, may as well pull the alarm system back out of the car. Your after market alarm manufacturer maybe able to replace the fobs for the alarm system, but would not bank at it being a quick thing instead.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,500
Likes: 3,625
New key will be cut from the dealer using your vin number, which gets them the key number cutting code to match the cylinders in the Car.
Key is not needed to program Fobs into the car, since such can be done with a Tech II instead. Hence if you use the key for the long process of programming in new fobs, you have a 30 min wait, once you do get the RCDLR into total relearn mode (can not use the key on an export model to put the RCDLR into either short or full reprogram mode).
But to back up a touch, if you already have OEM Fobs programmed into the RCDLR, they should not need to be programmed back in. Hence problem is either the batteries are dead in the fob, someone screwed with the receiver antennas for the car, or the after market alarm system is putting out enough RF noise that is blocking the fobs signal to two of the antennas.
Hence to get into the car, only one of the 5 Fob antennas has to pick up the fob, but to start the car, 2 of the antennas have to pick up the fob to prove to the RCDLR that the fob is inside the car. The only exception of the two antenna rule, is when you use the fob slot, since that antenna is right next to the slot, and the system is designed when this antenna picks up the fob alone, it will allow the car to start. This same slot/antenna is also used to program new fobs into the system due to the same signal strength as well.
As for antenna locations, one in the back of the car, one on each side of the B pillar (just in front of the gas cap location), one at the fob slot in the glove box, and one in the RCDLR itself, which is in the dash above the radio. So again, without using the slot, two of these antenna's have to pick up the fob in the car. Short of a dead battery in the fob, would suspect RF noise causing blockage of the Fob signal instead.
Key is not needed to program Fobs into the car, since such can be done with a Tech II instead. Hence if you use the key for the long process of programming in new fobs, you have a 30 min wait, once you do get the RCDLR into total relearn mode (can not use the key on an export model to put the RCDLR into either short or full reprogram mode).
But to back up a touch, if you already have OEM Fobs programmed into the RCDLR, they should not need to be programmed back in. Hence problem is either the batteries are dead in the fob, someone screwed with the receiver antennas for the car, or the after market alarm system is putting out enough RF noise that is blocking the fobs signal to two of the antennas.
Hence to get into the car, only one of the 5 Fob antennas has to pick up the fob, but to start the car, 2 of the antennas have to pick up the fob to prove to the RCDLR that the fob is inside the car. The only exception of the two antenna rule, is when you use the fob slot, since that antenna is right next to the slot, and the system is designed when this antenna picks up the fob alone, it will allow the car to start. This same slot/antenna is also used to program new fobs into the system due to the same signal strength as well.
As for antenna locations, one in the back of the car, one on each side of the B pillar (just in front of the gas cap location), one at the fob slot in the glove box, and one in the RCDLR itself, which is in the dash above the radio. So again, without using the slot, two of these antenna's have to pick up the fob in the car. Short of a dead battery in the fob, would suspect RF noise causing blockage of the Fob signal instead.
