Troubleshooting DIC Switch Issue
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 13
From: Rockwall County, Texas
Troubleshooting DIC Switch Issue
I posted this in the General Section yesterday, but realize it is more of a Tech question.
2011 GS M6 17,500 miles. I’m the second owner for about 6 months. 5,000 of those miles are mine. Sometime over the winter the top right switch (Gas mileage, etc.) became flakey. Would work on cold mornings, quit as the car warmed up. Some days was fine, some days not at all. I sprayed some contact cleaner in the crevices and it seemed to get better. Been dead for the last month.
All the classic signs of dirty contacts. SInce a new cluster was only $52, I ordered one instead of trying to take the original apart and clean it.
Got the new part today, swapped it out, and the same switch doesn’t work. Where do I go from here? Bad pin in the connector? Do I need a Tech II?
Ideas?
2011 GS M6 17,500 miles. I’m the second owner for about 6 months. 5,000 of those miles are mine. Sometime over the winter the top right switch (Gas mileage, etc.) became flakey. Would work on cold mornings, quit as the car warmed up. Some days was fine, some days not at all. I sprayed some contact cleaner in the crevices and it seemed to get better. Been dead for the last month.
All the classic signs of dirty contacts. SInce a new cluster was only $52, I ordered one instead of trying to take the original apart and clean it.
Got the new part today, swapped it out, and the same switch doesn’t work. Where do I go from here? Bad pin in the connector? Do I need a Tech II?
Ideas?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 13
From: Rockwall County, Texas
I poked around on this some more today. The wires and connector at the switch cluster end look fine as far as I can tell. I’m guessing if I pull the instrument cluster, I will be able to get to the other end of the harness?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
This is to get the bezel out (your done at the 1:50 point.
Once you have the bezel out, remove the side pods from the bezel, then pull the pods apart to clean the button on the rubber pieces and gold board contact points. Hence bank that someone went a little over board with some car cleaners, and its on the button contacts/board contacts that is causing the problem.
Also, if you have any burnt out bulbs, now would be a good time to replace them as well.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-controls.html
When you go to clip the bezel back in the dash, make sure that the cabin temp sensor just behind the slots next to the starter button does not pop out and fall into the bowels of the dash. If it does, then A/C controller will not get the correct reading in the cabin, and a/c controller will be all over the map with the car over cold one min, then over hot the next min. Hence one you snap it back in, use a flashlight to look behind the slots to make sure you can see the blue bulb on the cabin temp sensor.
If you look close in the below photo, you can see the blue filament of the cabin temp senor behind the slots, telling you it did not pop out when the bezel was snapped in the last of the way.
Once you have the bezel out, remove the side pods from the bezel, then pull the pods apart to clean the button on the rubber pieces and gold board contact points. Hence bank that someone went a little over board with some car cleaners, and its on the button contacts/board contacts that is causing the problem.
Also, if you have any burnt out bulbs, now would be a good time to replace them as well.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-controls.html
When you go to clip the bezel back in the dash, make sure that the cabin temp sensor just behind the slots next to the starter button does not pop out and fall into the bowels of the dash. If it does, then A/C controller will not get the correct reading in the cabin, and a/c controller will be all over the map with the car over cold one min, then over hot the next min. Hence one you snap it back in, use a flashlight to look behind the slots to make sure you can see the blue bulb on the cabin temp sensor.
If you look close in the below photo, you can see the blue filament of the cabin temp senor behind the slots, telling you it did not pop out when the bezel was snapped in the last of the way.
Last edited by Dano523; Apr 26, 2020 at 02:22 AM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 13
From: Rockwall County, Texas
Dano523,
Thanks for the info, but I ordered a new right hand cluster and the same button doesn’t work. What are the odds that the new one has dirty contacts on the same button.
I didn’t know about the A/C sensor - I will check to make sure it didn’t get lost in the operation.
mark
Thanks for the info, but I ordered a new right hand cluster and the same button doesn’t work. What are the odds that the new one has dirty contacts on the same button.
I didn’t know about the A/C sensor - I will check to make sure it didn’t get lost in the operation.
mark
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Dano523,
Thanks for the info, but I ordered a new right hand cluster and the same button doesn’t work. What are the odds that the new one has dirty contacts on the same button.
I didn’t know about the A/C sensor - I will check to make sure it didn’t get lost in the operation.
mark
Thanks for the info, but I ordered a new right hand cluster and the same button doesn’t work. What are the odds that the new one has dirty contacts on the same button.
I didn’t know about the A/C sensor - I will check to make sure it didn’t get lost in the operation.
mark
If wire connections pins are fine both sides, them may have to pull over the IPC to check for cold solder joints on the IPC board headers for the cluster.
Last edited by Dano523; Apr 27, 2020 at 01:52 PM.
