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I got a new shock set to replace a leaking rear passenger side shock. I am assuming these need to be compressed somewhat to remove one? Now, I am guessing the shock needs to be compressed to remove and also compressed somewhat to replace these. Thanks in advance.
If you don't want to remove the Upper A control arm, you are correct that the shocks need to he compressed to be removed easily from both front and rear. It is easily accomplished by having a long bar or screwdriver (I used a crowbar) to compress the shock and using long zip ties to keep it compressed to remove, To install, compress the shock, keep it compressed with zip ties, install in place with the bottom bolts in, then cut the zip ties to extend shock into position.
Using zip ties will prevent the need to remove the A arms, thus likely requiring an alignment.
If your OLD shocks are leaking, chances are that they will have little or zero pressure in them.. The new shocks should have plastic retainers on them to keep them compressed. I remove the old shocks and put the new ones in place and then CUT the retainer when I'm ready to guide the shock shaft into place. Works like a charm.
You can recompress them and use coat hanger wire to keep them compressed if necessary. . Its NOT rocket science..
Put your body weight on the new shock to see what it takes to compress them so you know what you are up against. Its NOT a lot of force but, it not easy either. Just gotta know what the new shock has for extend force. Its VERY do able.
If you don't want to remove the Upper A control arm, you are correct that the shocks need to he compressed to be removed easily from both front and rear. It is easily accomplished by having a long bar or screwdriver (I used a crowbar) to compress the shock and using long zip ties to keep it compressed to remove, To install, compress the shock, keep it compressed with zip ties, install in place with the bottom bolts in, then cut the zip ties to extend shock into position.
Using zip ties will prevent the need to remove the A arms, thus likely requiring an alignment.
I agree on everything 4summerz say, except the upper rear control arm removal has no affect on alignment
A update from a newbie now not so new. The RR shock was leaking was zero pressure easy to remove and nasty. LR was still working. Again the big zip ties and crowbar worked to pull down enough to zip tie and then pull down to remove it. I put on brand new pads and rotors, Many thanks to 4SUMERZ.
Bill new AC Delco F3 shocks did NOT have any type of retainers on these and were fully extended in the box. Zip ties work great on new ones to push in and install compressed. You are right not easy but not a lot of force. I did the reverse pull down on the one still working with the zip ties.
Great forum and thanks again the rear on road feels much better control wise. I knew something was not quite right when I hit a bump.