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I’m going to have my stock lifters replaced on my 2011 LS3 because of some ticking that I believe to be related to the lifters. I’m also going to have my rocker trunnions upgraded with the CHE kit. Should I get the GM ls7 lifters or Morels? I’ve read the Morels are a better lifter but would require a different length pushrod to get the correct preload.
I’m going to have my stock lifters replaced on my 2011 LS3 because of some ticking that I believe to be related to the lifters. I’m also going to have my rocker trunnions upgraded with the CHE kit. Should I get the GM ls7 lifters or Morels? I’ve read the Morels are a better lifter but would require a different length pushrod to get the correct preload.
I just replaced my LS3 lifters with LS7 lifters. Note the LS3 lifters have the oil hole on the top or bottom middle of the lifter and the LS7’s are on the side. NEW OEM GM LIFTER TRAYS A MUST. More then likely 7.4 pushrods. Trunion upgrade Comp cams 17302 is a must. I also added a Texas Speed Stage 1 cam. Lots of work but well worth it. If your not going to race it you don’t need the CHE and they are on back order almost everywhere.
Last edited by 2008 Corvette; Jan 28, 2021 at 12:28 PM.
I just replaced my LS3 lifters with LS7 lifters. Note the LS3 lifters have the oil hole on the top or bottom middle of the lifter and the LS7’s are on the side. NEW OEM GM LIFTER TRAYS A MUST. More then likely 7.4 pushrods. Trunion upgrade Comp cams 17302 is a must. I also added a Texas Speed Stage 1 cam. Lots of work but well worth it. If your not going to race it you don’t need the CHE and they are on back order almost everywhere.
Not going to be doing any racing other than having some fun on the street. Where did you order your ls7 lifters? I’ve noticed they have went up quiet a bit in price. Also I’m not dead set on the CHE kit I’ve just read they are prob the best, I know there are several other good kits available too, however I did find one site where the CHE kit is available. I’m not changing the cam so the stick pushrods should be fine I assume.
LS7 lifters from Summitt. Comp cams Trunion upgrade from Summitt. #17302. New OEM LIFTER TRAYS FROM GM ONLY. Use OEM head gaskets and ARP Head bolts. Take your time and chase all threads carefully and follow torque specs.
Johnson 2110 with oem trays is what I would run if I was going to be replacing lifters.
If I were changing the cam also I prob would get these. I won’t be able to use the stock pushrods with these. I’m keeping the motor stock so I’m thinking the GM ls7 lifters will be fine.
LS7 lifters from Summitt. Comp cams Trunion upgrade from Summitt. #17302. New OEM LIFTER TRAYS FROM GM ONLY. Use OEM head gaskets and ARP Head bolts. Take your time and chase all threads carefully and follow torque specs.
I hope you don’t have any issues with that Comp trunnion kit, I’ve heard of some issues with them. I will prob end up going with the Straub bushing style kit if not the CHE
The only issue with Comp cams Trunion is if you install the caged bearings improperly. IE nomenclature to the outside is the only way to go. If all else CFM.
I would go with the Morel 6504 drop in LS lifters. Texas Speed actually has these on sale right now. Definitely do the lifter trays also.
As for trunnion kit, if you are on the stock LS3 cam, I don't think its necessary. But the CHE kit is not a bad upgrade at all either.
The preload for the Morels is 0.060 and stock LS7's is 0.080 (correct me if I am wrong, not easy to find correct information).
You should really measure for proper pushrod length since you are changing lifters and you may need a different length pushrod, regardless. That being said, I am sure you could run the Morels with your same pushrods and they would be fine. LS lifters all have an amount that the plunger can travel to make up for any differences in engine tolerances and expansion and contraction from when the engine is hot and when it is cold.
But a hardened pushrod upgrade is not a bad idea even on a stock engine.
With a stock LS3, I'd use LS7 lifters, new trays, and new stock LS3 rocker arms. There's no reason to upgrade the rocker arms. I'm running stock rocker arms with a .620 lift cam. It's been going strong for over 20K miles. I looked at upgrading to some high dollar rocker arms when I change valve springs in a few hundred miles. I don't see the need to spend the money. I'll probably just go back with another set of stock LS3 rocker arms. They're not expensive at all.
I would go with the Morel 6504 drop in LS lifters. Texas Speed actually has these on sale right now. Definitely do the lifter trays also.
As for trunnion kit, if you are on the stock LS3 cam, I don't think its necessary. But the CHE kit is not a bad upgrade at all either.
The preload for the Morels is 0.060 and stock LS7's is 0.080 (correct me if I am wrong, not easy to find correct information).
You should really measure for proper pushrod length since you are changing lifters and you may need a different length pushrod, regardless. That being said, I am sure you could run the Morels with your same pushrods and they would be fine. LS lifters all have an amount that the plunger can travel to make up for any differences in engine tolerances and expansion and contraction from when the engine is hot and when it is cold.
But a hardened pushrod upgrade is not a bad idea even on a stock engine.
TSP has a great price on the Morels right now and they may be a better lifter but I plan on reusing the stock pushrods and with them being shorter I would imagine they will need a longer pushrod, you can prob get away with the stock ones but I don’t wanna create anymore valvetrain noise and defeat the purpose. So I’m leaning towards the ls7 lifters pretty hard
Actually with the Morells you would technically need a shorter pushrod. You would just be running .080 lifter preload on the Morells instead of .060 which is not a problem as they have built in range of plunger travel.
Honestly, if you think about it since pushrods are usually sold in .025 length increments, going with a shorter pushrod would mean you would be at .055 preload which is not quite enough. When I have done cams or changed lifters, I try to hit the right preload but more often than not when you measure, it will fall between two different pushrod lengths. I always go with the longer in that case.
And depending on the engine builder some recommend more and some less preload on the exact same lifters. Your stock pushrods with the Morells would work just fine.
But your car, your decision.
Last edited by Spaceme1117; Jan 28, 2021 at 05:25 PM.
OP I wouldn't worry about it. My car is cammed and sounds like a sewing machine. Has been ticking since the cam installation seven years ago. I've been thinking about swapping in the 2110's but not sure I'm going to do it. If a lifter was to fail I think it would've by now.
I didn’t want to say anything but why would you pull the heads to put in the same lifters lol??
I’m not sure what he’s talking about, I’m the OP and the whole purpose of this post is because I’m def replacing the lifters I just wasn’t positive which ones to go with
Originally Posted by jamieo
He said in his first post he was replacing due to some ticking that he thought was lifter related.
Exactly. I have an isolated tick on both sides of the motor towards the front that I’m pretty sure is lifter related and needs to be addressed.
Originally Posted by JetstreamGS
OP I wouldn't worry about it. My car is cammed and sounds like a sewing machine. Has been ticking since the cam installation seven years ago. I've been thinking about swapping in the 2110's but not sure I'm going to do it. If a lifter was to fail I think it would've by now.
Possibly and I’m fine with the sewing machine noise but this ticking I have is an isolated tick on both sides of the motor that is something more than just the typical sewing machine noise. I could probably run it for a good while longer without any serious problems but I really want to be able to drive the **** out of it and not have to worry about shaving off cam lobes. Plus it’s a little embarrassing... if i had a big cam in it and full exhaust that would be different but she’s stock.