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New to the Forum. This is my first post since my introduction. I have started to change the dampener/pully on my 2006 c6. I'm in the process of removing the power steering rack to access the dampener. I refuse to bend the brake lines like a lot of people demonstrate on You Tube. I would rather disconnect them. My question, is there any special bleeding procedure with the anti lock brake system. I have bled brakes many times, but not with anti-lock, anti/skid systems. I have a Motive Brake bleeder system. Thanks in advance. SB
I just turned rotors and changed padlets on my 2011 GS. After some searching the order I found was LR, RF, RR, LF. Bleed the inner first, then the outer.
New to the Forum. This is my first post since my introduction. I have started to change the dampener/pully on my 2006 c6. I'm in the process of removing the power steering rack to access the dampener. I refuse to bend the brake lines like a lot of people demonstrate on You Tube. I would rather disconnect them. My question, is there any special bleeding procedure with the anti lock brake system. I have bled brakes many times, but not with anti-lock, anti/skid systems. I have a Motive Brake bleeder system. Thanks in advance. SB
I believe that you need a special electrical tool to activate the valves in the ABS in order to get all the old fluid/air out. If you're disconnecting a line after the abs, you should be able to get the air out with conventional methods. It may be a good idea to go to a competent shop with the correct tools and knowledge after you've completed your project. Not a high $$ procedure, but you want to make sure they do it right.
I recently changed the brake fluid on my 2008 Base Z51 using the Motive bleeder. I started bleeding at the furthest caliper from the master cylinder - RR, LR, RF, LF.
1 track day since and no issues.
I recently changed the brake fluid on my 2008 Base Z51 using the Motive bleeder. I started bleeding at the furthest caliper from the master cylinder - RR, LR, RF, LF.
1 track day since and no issues.
What 61X specified is the correct sequence of bleeding the brakes on late C6's. Your method was for older vehicles, but C6 corvette has 2 separate distribution lines and the shop manual specifies his method.
What 61X specified is the correct sequence of bleeding the brakes on late C6's. Your method was for older vehicles, but C6 corvette has 2 separate distribution lines and the shop manual specifies his method.
gsflyer2011 - To clarify, is my 2008 considered an older vehicle among the C6 years or should I be following the sequence that 61X specified.
I pushed fresh fluid through each caliper with the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence I performed. But if I should have followed LR, RF, RR, LF what's the potential downside that I should be aware of? Thanks in advance.
gsflyer2011 - To clarify, is my 2008 considered an older vehicle among the C6 years or should I be following the sequence that 61X specified.
I pushed fresh fluid through each caliper with the RR, LR, RF, LF sequence I performed. But if I should have followed LR, RF, RR, LF what's the potential downside that I should be aware of? Thanks in advance.
I do not know the exact consequences but i guess that your method might not flush all the old fluid out. However i do not think thats is a huge issue, you probably got most old fluid out. Next time do the proper. Sequence. Also not doing the ABS bleed keeps some old fluid, but if you get 90 percent replaced, that is still much better than not doing it.
I just turned rotors and changed padlets on my 2011 GS. After some searching the order I found was LR, RF, RR, LF. Bleed the inner first, then the outer.
This is the method I've been using. It is what the GM factory service manual specifies.
I also use a Motive speed bleeder master cylinder cap hooked up to my air compressor at 5-10psi. That pushes the fluid through without needing a helper. Just do not let the fluid level get low in the master cylinder! Top it off after every single bleeder screw.
New to the Forum. This is my first post since my introduction. I have started to change the dampener/pully on my 2006 c6. I'm in the process of removing the power steering rack to access the dampener. I refuse to bend the brake lines like a lot of people demonstrate on You Tube. I would rather disconnect them. My question, is there any special bleeding procedure with the anti lock brake system. I have bled brakes many times, but not with anti-lock, anti/skid systems. I have a Motive Brake bleeder system. Thanks in advance. SB
What you have with your Motive will work just fine. I removed my ABS pump, plugged the pump and lines when doing my cam and used my Motive and everything works fine.
Last edited by 2008 Corvette; Jul 12, 2021 at 08:35 PM.
Finished the project of replacing the harmonic dampener/pulley. Brake bleeding went easily. The project over all was pretty tough I would hate to have to do to many of them. vehicle is finished and back on the road. SB
Finished the project of replacing the harmonic dampener/pulley. Brake bleeding went easily. The project over all was pretty tough I would hate to have to do to many of them. vehicle is finished and back on the road. SB
Congratulations. This is not an easy job.
Just to add to the knowledge base. Old school says to bleed the furthest master first and so on. That means RR-LR-RF-LF from the perspective of sitting in the car. Does it matter? I don't know, but I've always done it this way and never had a problem. If you have a Motive pressure bleeder and you're in doubt do it both ways and you can't go wrong, it's just the cost of brake fluid.
Much superstition, myth and legend in auto repair.
After bleeding the brakes on hundreds, maybe thousands (literally!) of cars (it gets boring pretty fast....), I've tried every sequence imaginable
Never found it to make one iota of difference.
Same as bleeding a master cylinder, I've had good luck getting air out the ABS module with the pump-and-hold, crack the line open method.
One at a time, start at the master and work downstream.
Be prepared to catch the little spurt of brake fluid, and you can rinse off any spilled with water.
Just a FYI, Autel make a hand scan (MaxiCheck Pro) tool that does full 4pt ABS electronic bleeding. I paid about $170 for it. Worked great on my 2006 Z06. I changed my calipers to Wildwoods w/SST line and also replaced the brake MC.
What I always do when I remove a brake line fitting is to cap the upstream end using a rubber vacuum cap. I also keep the brake fluid high in the reservoir.
If I read your post correctly the brake fittings you need to remove are downstream from the ABS system.
If no air gets into the system you should not have an issue.
it makes no difference how you do it unless the system has been syphoned completely. dry. I've been tracking corvettes for 30 years, and only needed an ABS bleed 1 time even after extensive engine replacements etc. A little baggy and rubber band over the ends will prevent losing enough fluid to drain he ABS