DIC Switches
The bulbs are just 7219 bulbs, and easy to solder out the old burnt ones, and solder in the new ones.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...light-out.html
So to get the dash benzel out so you can remove the back screws to pull the pods/get to the boards,
Bezel is out at 1'30 to get to the pod screws to remove the boards, and replace any burnt bulbs.
Now the big one, and when you go to put the bezel back in by snapping the bottom section last, the Cabin temp sensor loves to pop out at this time, and end up in the bowels of the dash (climate control is not going to work well, since it's not pulling the cabin temp).
So go slow on the last of the bezel snap back in on the bottom, and look at the slotted vent to the left of the starter button, to see the Blue section of the cabin temp sensor bulb still in place in the back side of the bezel slots.
The sensor looks like this,
And with bezel snapped in, should still be able to see the blue bulb behind the vents.
Too add, if the pod buttons are finger grooved/ worn out/cracked and they needs to be replaced, then your back to buying the whole pod assemblies left and right, and will have the new boards as well.

Last edited by Dano523; Feb 6, 2022 at 01:03 AM.
So if car will start now with the LED builbs, don't have to get creative with the Fob to get the car to start, consider your self one of the lucky ones.
Also, LED build circuits are directional, so keep that in mind when if you do solder in LED bulbs. With standard bulbs, does not matter which wire goes to what side isntead. Also, in most cases, you have to add resistors so the LED lights do go off when the car is turned off, so just faster/cheaper to use the standard bulbs in the first place.
Good on you Mate,
But have too many phone calls from guys that have installed LED bulbs, and they can not figure out why the Fob is not working to start the car afterwards.













