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Melted cooling fan wires I’ve been having issues with my ground wire that goes to the cooling fan melting at the connector anybody have a good fix for this
Reason that the fan connector next to the radiation on the passenger side, is due to someone changing the fan rate tables in the tune, which has the fan/pwm running more that is designed to in the first place. So yes, you can change out the connector to a new one, but will still burn it up over again, until the fan rate table has been changed to something more like the factory settings again.
As for hard wring the connector out of play with the wires soldered/heat shrink so there is no upper connector in play, all your doing is moving the problem down line, to either burn up the PWM connector, or the PWM itself.
Or you can go brushless which has its own PWM. That i
s a Dewitts custom shroud and 500 watt brushless fan. It is a Mishimoto radiator as it has a 17.5 inch tall core with top/bottom tabs (18.5 inches) that allow the shroud to be installed as shown with a Dewitts radiator you would need to make a bracket (as the core is like 16.3 inches high with no tabs and you need an 18.5 inch bolt to tab height. As someone mentioned you fix one are another are becomes an issue. The bottom photo is the final as it has the wire in 3 o'clock position and I ended up have to cut some more on passenger side and move over to miss the ABS box. In hindsight you leave the drivers side of the Dewitts shroud alone (to bring fan far enough over to miss ABS) and cut at the line and bolt a 1/2 inch square 17.5 inch nylon bar to it to block off air coming in. Normally these shrouds have a turn down on the sides to prevent air coming in from the sides. The shroud itself is like 27.5 inches and we only need 25 inches so that is why you cut the one side off.
Going with the brushless theme - LG Motorsports or G Speed sells a kit that adapts a C7 600 watt 14 inch fan to our cars and have different brackets for different radiators.
Just a thought here...these shrouds look great for ensuring that no air can bypass the aftermarket fan suction, but what about at high speed?
I have very limited Corvette experience, but what I know from all other cars is that cooling fans are basically beneficial at idle, or low speed, in traffic when there is insufficient natural airflow over the radiator. Is the natural airflow through a C6 so very poor that it must be augmented at highway speed?
It seems to me that they'd actually be an impediment to natural airflow on a track. Or, perhaps even on the highway...unless natural airflow still isn't enough to properly cool.
I thought factory tuned ones were the main ones to melt. That would make sense as the factory tune has the fans commanded to come on past 225*F or so. It would get quite hot in that area.
Sometimes when someone retunes the fan settings and sets them to 100%, yes that can burn them up but most get set to 80-90% when retuned and starting around a much lower 203*F coolant temp engagement point. The ones I've tuned at least and my personal c6z, have never seen wiring issues after I adjust these settings.
Reason that the fan connector next to the radiation on the passenger side, is due to someone changing the fan rate tables in the tune, which has the fan/pwm running more that is designed to in the first place.
This is common, but not always the case. Mine melted on a 100% stock car after before 100k miles, but it is hot down here in the Summer and the A/C is always on.
To the OP, the easiest fix is to eliminate the connector. Alternatively, you could replace the connector with a better one. I've been running without a connector (wires soldered and heat shrunk) for over 5 years now with no issues.
If you go connector - go Metripak 800 what is in car is Metripak 630. The 800 series can take like 50+% more current - see photos below and see the difference. Basically the 800 is about the size of a house wall socket.
Melted cooling fan wires
