When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My trustee steed left me stranded a couple days ago while traveling home for the holidays. Long story short, the car ended up at a Chevy Dealer 3 hours away from home in Alice, TX. Dealer was super cool there when I dropped it off.
Car is mechanically all stock with only an axle back exhaust.
2010 GS 6 Speed Manual.
Was cruising on the highway at 75 mph when the dash cluster started freaking out (Service Fuel System, Brake System, Service Vehicle, only gauge that would work was battery voltage which was reading 13.6V). AC/ Heat unresponsive and radio kept turning on and off. Pulled over at a gas station and turned the car off. Then the doors would not open, rear hatch would not open. Car was acting like it would not recognize the fob (4 month old brand new fob). Disconnected the battery, reconnected it and still nothing. Tried putting the fob in the glove compartment slot, still nothing. Car would go into accessory mode but would not crank over.
Got it towed to a Chevy Dealer. Ironically the car started right up on the flat bed and I backed it off… thought it might be a fluke so drove out of the dealer, made it about 1/4 mile and the same issues started again. Turned around and headed back to dealer. I had the windows down at this point and noticed all 4 brakes sounded like they were dragging. Decided to leave it at the dealership and let them take a look.
Codes are as follows:
C0561
U1088
U1096
U1153
U1193
U2108
I am hoping the dealer will diagnose the issue rather than just replacing components. The car is 3 hours away from home, and was daily driver before this. I put 20k miles on this car this year in 2022. Have never had any issues with the car.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Agwilson96; Dec 25, 2022 at 12:48 PM.
There are several reports of similar symptoms on this board, and the cause is usually a bad battery. I would call that good news, because it is easy and cheap to replace a battery. These cars are very sensitive to battery issues.
There are several reports of similar symptoms on this board, and the cause is usually a bad battery. I would call that good news, because it is easy and cheap to replace a battery. These cars are very sensitive to battery issues.
Battery is new and was replaced back in September.
If the dealership will be diagnosing this don’t hold your breath !!…all the “U” codes are communication codes…hope the dealership uses a CAN “break out box” and a labscope because it not they will only be guessing and that will be expensive for you !!..find yourself an auto-electric or a “diagnostic” shop in your area...what city is the car at now ??…won't be able to diagnose this for you over the Internet unfortunately…video below so you can see what’s involved..BTW dealers don’t use scopes !!...BTW do you have ANYTHING plugged into the OBD2 port ???
My trustee steed left me stranded a couple days ago while traveling home for the holidays. Long story short, the car ended up at a Chevy Dealer 3 hours away from home in Alice, TX. Dealer was super cool there when I dropped it off.
Car is mechanically all stock with only an axle back exhaust.
2010 GS 6 Speed Manual.
Was cruising on the highway at 75 mph when the dash cluster started freaking out (Service Fuel System, Brake System, Service Vehicle, only gauge that would work was battery voltage which was reading 13.6V). AC/ Heat unresponsive and radio kept turning on and off. Pulled over at a gas station and turned the car off. Then the doors would not open, rear hatch would not open. Car was acting like it would not recognize the fob (4 month old brand new fob). Disconnected the battery, reconnected it and still nothing. Tried putting the fob in the glove compartment slot, still nothing. Car would go into accessory mode but would not crank over.
Got it towed to a Chevy Dealer. Ironically the car started right up on the flat bed and I backed it off… thought it might be a fluke so drove out of the dealer, made it about 1/4 mile and the same issues started again. Turned around and headed back to dealer. I had the windows down at this point and noticed all 4 brakes sounded like they were dragging. Decided to leave it at the dealership and let them take a look.
Codes are as follows:
C0561
U1088
U1096
U1153
U1193
U2108
I am hoping the dealer will diagnose the issue rather than just replacing components. The car is 3 hours away from home, and was daily driver before this. I put 20k miles on this car this year in 2022. Have never had any issues with the car.
Thoughts?
Sadly, dealers love changing parts until the problem is fixed, then they holler "Bullseye!!" At your expense, of course. I hope you've found a decent dealer. I believe all the U codes are communication codes. IDK for sure. Best of luck. I have a C5, but they're similar. Wish I could help you more. C5Diag is an excellent info source......
If the dealership will be diagnosing this don’t hold your breath !!…all the “U” codes are communication codes…hope the dealership uses a CAN “break out box” and a labscope because it not they will only be guessing and that will be expensive for you !!..find yourself an auto-electric or a “diagnostic” shop in your area...what city is the car at now ??…won't be able to diagnose this for you over the Internet unfortunately…video below so you can see what’s involved..BTW dealers don’t use scopes !!...BTW do you have ANYTHING plugged into the OBD2 port ???
Car is in Alice, TX. 3 hours away. I am going to see what the dealer suggests is the issue but most likely as many people have stated I think this may be happening due to bad/ corroded connections or grounds. I will most likely go get it on a trailer and haul it home.
Nothing was plugged into the OBD2 port, the dealership plugged in their tool which pulled the codes. What freaked me out was the dragging brakes.
Car is in Alice, TX. 3 hours away. I am going to see what the dealer suggests is the issue but most likely as many people have stated I think this may be happening due to bad/ corroded connections or grounds. I will most likely go get it on a trailer and haul it home.
Nothing was plugged into the OBD2 port, the dealership plugged in their tool which pulled the codes. What freaked me out was the dragging brakes.
The U2108 is loss of comm to the EBCM and since you had the dragging brakes I’d maybe focus my attention on that module if you do try to diagnose it yourself…you can try removing the EBCM connector and then jumping across the CAN wires to basically take the EBCM out of the circuit (jump B9 to B10 and B11 to B12) and see if all your issues resolve themselves..the CAN lines are easy to identify because they are “twisted pairs”…pic below…checking the resistance of the CAN bus wiring with a DVOM is the normal SOP if you get that far…saw Spitfire Auto Electric in San Antonio may be a good choice.
The U2108 is loss of comm to the EBCM and since you had the dragging brakes I’d maybe focus my attention on that module if you do try to diagnose it yourself…you can try removing the EBCM connector and then jumping across the CAN wires to basically take the EBCM out of the circuit (jump B9 to B10 and B11 to B12) and see if all your issues resolve themselves..the CAN lines are easy to identify because they are “twisted pairs”…pic below…checking the resistance of the CAN bus wiring with a DVOM is the normal SOP if you get that far…saw Spitfire Auto Electric in San Antonio may be a good choice.
Thank you. Will check it out and will post results. Miss driving the car already
2010 GS Electrical Catastrophe
