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Since the fan can only run at 90% with the module. Can you get rid of that and use an aftermarket fan wiring kit, and use the PCM to control it still? Instead of a temp probe and wiring to the a/c compressor. So say take the signal wire off the PWM and add it to the relay excitor wire.
Why would you want to alter the max duty cycle of the cooling fan ??
Because the amount of airflow from 90% to 100% is much greater. By eliminating the PWM you can go higher and not worry about melting plugs. Similar to the D3 ProSpeed setup.
Walk in the part, but lets back it up, since PWM is duty cycling, and that 90%, has the fan full blast. Also, fan control is more than the PWM alone, and in the tune, there is percentage to engine temps that can be changed to a degree.
Now back to the pwm and the way it pulse controls the fan is on the negative side to ground. So fan has power to the positive side 100% of the time, and if you just intercept that megitive wire back to the PWM, wire in a switch off that wire and ground it to the chassis, when the switch has continuity, the fan will run full blast.
If your looking to just do connector inserts, then Mousers has the needed connectors, or you could just splice into the fans negative wire back to the PWM, to add the switch to ground wire circuit instead.
So switch off, PWM works like it should, while fan ground wire to ground, fan will run full blast instead (even with the car shut off).
The down side, if you forget to turn the fan off when the motor is off, it going to drain the battery on the quick side, so would build a timer circuit with push button, so when the button is pushed, fan only runs for say 4 mins each time full blast, before the PWM is back in control.
And again, at 90% pulse width out of the PWM, the fan is running full blast.
So if you have an over heat problem with the fan full blast, then problem is not the fan, but need to upgrade the raditor system to one that will keep the motor to the desired temp instead. Sometimes is as simple as fan that will move more air, but often its the radiator itself, that need to cool the Dex cool better isntead.
Also, while we are talking of air movement through the raditor, when is the last time you back washed/flushed the raditor and HVAC condenser in front of it, to make sure they are not clogged and blocking the air movement through both?
Walk in the part, but lets back it up, since PWM is duty cycling, and that 90%, has the fan full blast. Also, fan control is more than the PWM alone, and in the tune, there is percentage to engine temps that can be changed to a degree.
Now back to the pwm and the way it pulse controls the fan is on the negative side to ground. So fan has power to the positive side 100% of the time, and if you just intercept that megitive wire back to the PWM, wire in a switch off that wire and ground it to the chassis, when the switch has continuity, the fan will run full blast.
If your looking to just do connector inserts, then Mousers has the needed connectors, or you could just splice into the fans negative wire back to the PWM, to add the switch to ground wire circuit instead.
So switch off, PWM works like it should, while fan ground wire to ground, fan will run full blast instead (even with the car shut off).
The down side, if you forget to turn the fan off when the motor is off, it going to drain the battery on the quick side, so would build a timer circuit with push button, so when the button is pushed, fan only runs for say 4 mins each time full blast, before the PWM is back in control.
And again, at 90% pulse width out of the PWM, the fan is running full blast.
So if you have an over heat problem with the fan full blast, then problem is not the fan, but need to upgrade the raditor system to one that will keep the motor to the desired temp instead. Sometimes is as simple as fan that will move more air, but often its the radiator itself, that need to cool the Dex cool better isntead.
Also, while we are talking of air movement through the raditor, when is the last time you back washed/flushed the raditor and HVAC condenser in front of it, to make sure they are not clogged and blocking the air movement through both?
I have cleaned out the cooling stack. A few times. Compressed air and a pressure washer.
The car is cammed/e85/procharger. I have a intercooler up front. And went with a bigger radiator. Went to a 05 fan. And I also used 1' foam to seal the fan to the radiator. My fans are set to 90% starting at 205. In traffic it creeps up quickly esp with a/c on. I am in FL. I have about 90% distilled water/water wetter and 10% antifreeze. Before I switched from the A&A intercooler to the current ProCharger one, the temps seemed to stay a little lower. I know 230 is semi normal but I would prefer to be closer to 215-220 while sitting in traffic. That is where my main concern is. Stop and go is when its the hottest.
I also have a Z06 oil cooler in front of the condenser behind the intercooler. Where ProCharger mounts it.
Also, drop in a 160 stat, which will start to open a lot sooner that the oem unit. Both are going to be wide open at the higher temps, but lower unit will allow the coolant to move sooner through the system.
As for the last part of the puzzle, supercharger it going to increase compressed air temps, so should have a meth kit in play (even if just pushing distilled water like the BMW system if you are running on e85) to help cool the compressed air back down so it not heat soaking the motor hit after hit..
Also, double check the mounting of the intercooler, since you need a gap between it and the front of the condenser, to allow air flow around it at idle/slower traffice, and not blocking the flow through the condensor and raditor isntead.
Also, drop in a 160 stat, which will start to open a lot sooner that the oem unit. Both are going to be wide open at the higher temps, but lower unit will allow the coolant to move sooner through the system.
As for the last part of the puzzle, supercharger it going to increase compressed air temps, so should have a meth kit in play (even if just pushing distilled water like the BMW system if you are running on e85) to help cool the compressed air back down so it not heat soaking the motor hit after hit..
Also, double check the mounting of the intercooler, since you need a gap between it and the front of the condenser, to allow air flow around it at idle/slower traffice, and not blocking the flow through the condensor and raditor isntead.
I will do the 160 stat. And I thought about making my own ProSpeed style fans setup. Find the 11" Spal fans they use and get a sheet of aluminum. I am a bit of a cheap ***, and I like to make stuff lol
Walk in the part, but lets back it up, since PWM is duty cycling, and that 90%, has the fan full blast. Also, fan control is more than the PWM alone, and in the tune, there is percentage to engine temps that can be changed to a degree.
Now back to the pwm and the way it pulse controls the fan is on the negative side to ground. So fan has power to the positive side 100% of the time, and if you just intercept that megitive wire back to the PWM, wire in a switch off that wire and ground it to the chassis, when the switch has continuity, the fan will run full blast.
If your looking to just do connector inserts, then Mousers has the needed connectors, or you could just splice into the fans negative wire back to the PWM, to add the switch to ground wire circuit instead.
So switch off, PWM works like it should, while fan ground wire to ground, fan will run full blast instead (even with the car shut off).
The down side, if you forget to turn the fan off when the motor is off, it going to drain the battery on the quick side, so would build a timer circuit with push button, so when the button is pushed, fan only runs for say 4 mins each time full blast, before the PWM is back in control.
And again, at 90% pulse width out of the PWM, the fan is running full blast.
So if you have an over heat problem with the fan full blast, then problem is not the fan, but need to upgrade the raditor system to one that will keep the motor to the desired temp instead. Sometimes is as simple as fan that will move more air, but often its the radiator itself, that need to cool the Dex cool better isntead.
Also, while we are talking of air movement through the raditor, when is the last time you back washed/flushed the raditor and HVAC condenser in front of it, to make sure they are not clogged and blocking the air movement through both?
I recently installed a Dewitts rad with the dual Spal fans. The fans only came with a 2 wire pig tail connector. My 2013 vette has the stock 3 plug wire with the ground, positive and the PWM green wire. I connected red to red and black to black and left the green wire off since there was absolutely no directions. Now, my fans will stay on constantly even with the ignition off. You have any advice on how to wire it up so either it works like stock or using a switch to turn the fans on when the ignition is on. (Really anything besides fans being on when the ignition is off.)
First off, the factory wiring is not gauge large enough to handle the load of the two fans, much less the connectors to hand the load of a single fan run all the time. So fans need their own power supply to both the battery, as well as to ground.
As for how to handle the power, needs to go through a relay able to handle the 40amps plus load of the two fans.
Postive wire large enough for a 60 amp load, with 60amp fuse run from the engine block terminal to #60. Out of number 87, to the red wire on the fan, then black wire out of the fans to chassic ground, and all these wires sized correctly for 60 amp load.
Now on the switch to control the relay on 85 and 86 to turn the fans off and on, it need to be done from a power source that only has power when the car is in run mode.
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As for solid state relay with the ECM controlling the relay, same goes for the power to the fan, but instead of using a switch, the SSR is controlled the ECM control ground. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ring-help.html
So we start with the same 60gauge wire with 60amp fuse from the engine bay terminal to the fans positive wires, with diodes on the fans postive and negive wires to be swiching noise supressors.
Now fan negative wires are wired to SSR terminal #1, and termial #2 wire goes to chassic ground wire, all again, in wire gauge size that will handle a 60amp load.
terminal 3 is going to get a positive wire to it (one amp load, so does not need to be high amperage rated), and will run back to the raditor fan connector C wire.
while terminal 4 will go to raditor fan connector A. Here is the wiring for the ECM to control the SRR, just like is was controlling the stock PWM.
From here, thermal past on the back of the SRR, and bolt mount it to someone metal that will be come its heat sink so the SRR can dissipate the heat.
Fan module bypass...
