C6 Electrical Issues
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
C6 Electrical Issues
Hey everyone! I am looking for some opinions on electrical issues I have been having.
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,296
Likes: 1,149
From: Klein TX
2023 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's...
...on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back.
I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
...on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back.
I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 562
Likes: 66
Hey everyone! I am looking for some opinions on electrical issues I have been having.
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hey everyone! I am looking for some opinions on electrical issues I have been having.
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Backstory on the car, its a 2012 Grand Sport, manual transmission. Freshly built 416 Stroker, and a couple other mods. So its not stock.
I had problems where 'service traction system' and service antilock brakes' would pop up, then I would lose all power to the radio, A/C, and heads up display. This would usually only happen at WOT, as soon as I let off the gas everything would start to turn back on. There was also a voltage spike at the same time.
First I noticed my battery was leaking acid, so I replaced that (got the brand new battery about three days ago). This was probably due to overcharging with a bad voltage regulator.
Then I replaced my alternator. I just put in a Ultima 145 amp, remanufactured from O'Reilly's to test fixes to my issue. I saw some posts referencing a bad voltage regulator and the same warnings and error messages I was getting...and boom problem gone.
I drove around town yesterday, testing the new alternator but only went WOT twice. And it seemed to hold up, no electronics turning off and no warnings popping up.
Then today, I went out driving again, on my first pull wide open as soon as I changed gears everything started glitching out again volts spiked to 18+ while on the gas, error messages came back. I had to limp the car home, anything over 2000 rpm and the volt meter would spike all the way up. Leading me to believe another alternator or voltage regulator went out. I saw a section of another forum post talking about overspinning the alternator and it shorting out immediately after WOT or a gear change.
I guess I am trying to work out why it is frying alternators. It has a 10% UD ATI damper. 6.73 in is what it says on their website. Along with a alternator pully at 2 3/8. I built the engine to turn 8000 rpm. I shifted today at 6500, putting my alternator rpm at about 18,500. Immediately after that shift all my electronics went back to the exact same problems as before the alternator swap.
I am just not sure if this is an issue with my alternator / voltage regulator, or overspinning the alternator, or the ECU? I would just prefer to diagnose this problem, rather than continuing to throw money at it.
I can add any extra details that I may have forgotten if asked!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
