Leaking Motor Mount: So What ??
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
Leaking Motor Mount: So What ??
I'm pretty sure my driver side motor mount is leaking. I found brownish dried stains on it and no where else.
I don't feel any drivability, motor shaking or unusual sounds. And it may have been this way for at least a year since my last oil change which is why I recently noticed it.
So if it leaks is it non functional or just limited in its performance characteristics?
Is there some collateral damage to the motor, transmission or drive line that will occur if motor mount is not replaced???????????
I don't feel any drivability, motor shaking or unusual sounds. And it may have been this way for at least a year since my last oil change which is why I recently noticed it.
So if it leaks is it non functional or just limited in its performance characteristics?
Is there some collateral damage to the motor, transmission or drive line that will occur if motor mount is not replaced???????????
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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If question if they need to be replace, the answer is yes.
With what, that is up to you.
Oems will last about the same again, while polys will last a lot longer, but will feel more engine vibration.
As for replacement, engine need to be jacked up a touch (before you crash it into the window crowling, front craddle need to be drop a touch so you can replace them, and once it all back together, have a wheel alignment done on the car.
As for if our going to to do engine mounts poly's, then may want to do the rear end supports to poly's as well.
As for solid mounts, no so much on a street cars, since will increase major felt engine vibration to the car.
With what, that is up to you.
Oems will last about the same again, while polys will last a lot longer, but will feel more engine vibration.
As for replacement, engine need to be jacked up a touch (before you crash it into the window crowling, front craddle need to be drop a touch so you can replace them, and once it all back together, have a wheel alignment done on the car.
As for if our going to to do engine mounts poly's, then may want to do the rear end supports to poly's as well.
As for solid mounts, no so much on a street cars, since will increase major felt engine vibration to the car.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
If question if they need to be replace, the answer is yes.
With what, that is up to you.
Oems will last about the same again, while polys will last a lot longer, but will feel more engine vibration.
As for replacement, engine need to be jacked up a touch (before you crash it into the window crowling, front craddle need to be drop a touch so you can replace them, and once it all back together, have a wheel alignment done on the car.
As for if our going to to do engine mounts poly's, then may want to do the rear end supports to poly's as well.
As for solid mounts, no so much on a street cars, since will increase major felt engine vibration to the car.
With what, that is up to you.
Oems will last about the same again, while polys will last a lot longer, but will feel more engine vibration.
As for replacement, engine need to be jacked up a touch (before you crash it into the window crowling, front craddle need to be drop a touch so you can replace them, and once it all back together, have a wheel alignment done on the car.
As for if our going to to do engine mounts poly's, then may want to do the rear end supports to poly's as well.
As for solid mounts, no so much on a street cars, since will increase major felt engine vibration to the car.
But the question is WHY do they need to be replaced? And WHAT will happen if I don't ?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: SoCal
But agian .......... WHY do i need to? WHAT will happen if I don't?
Thanks
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Some of the aftermarket engine mounts have an internal hook of sorts connecting the top half to the bottom so even if the soft material was to tear or get damaged there'd still be something to hold the engine in place. I don't believe the OEM ones have that same safety feature.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
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From: Potomac MD
ZR1 Mounts
You might want to look into getting ZR1 mounts externally they look the same but they are different internally as I weighed both and they are not the same weight by like an ounce or two. Maybe the ZR1s are stiffer.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
I may be mistaken on this as it's been a while since I've dealt with a bad one but I believe you'd run the risk of having your motor twist up and out of the cradle a whole lot more than it's supposed to.
Some of the aftermarket engine mounts have an internal hook of sorts connecting the top half to the bottom so even if the soft material was to tear or get damaged there'd still be something to hold the engine in place. I don't believe the OEM ones have that same safety feature.
Some of the aftermarket engine mounts have an internal hook of sorts connecting the top half to the bottom so even if the soft material was to tear or get damaged there'd still be something to hold the engine in place. I don't believe the OEM ones have that same safety feature.
I don't hear or feel any thing unusual.
I will keep in mind your concern about the internal hooking. I wonder if the OEM actually does have this. Who would not the answer?
Thanks
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
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From: SoCal
I will get picture this weekend
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Oshawa Ontario
I had a full set of AMT engine & trans mounts installed in my car (purely to tighten things up since I track my car frequently). There's DEFINITELY an increase in vibrations inside the car when you first get rolling at low speeds, off idle, but it smooths out once you're up to normal cruising speed. Thing is, because I did all 4 mounts at once, I don't know if it's more from the front or rear or a combination of them all. I'd recommend starting with just the engine mounts, since they're clearly crap from the factory, and see how it feels - it would probably be fine, and just leave the rear mounts alone.
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Thanks for the first one to address my actual questions. The car is only street driven on street tires and barely ever sees 7K anymore. So I'm not sure engine is going to go any where. I was thinking that twisting of the engine could affect the driveline and break something???
I don't hear or feel any thing unusual.
I will keep in mind your concern about the internal hooking. I wonder if the OEM actually does have this. Who would not the answer?
Thanks
I don't hear or feel any thing unusual.
I will keep in mind your concern about the internal hooking. I wonder if the OEM actually does have this. Who would not the answer?
Thanks
So yeah, any excess twisting could definitely hurt something.
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Thanks for the first one to address my actual questions. The car is only street driven on street tires and barely ever sees 7K anymore. So I'm not sure engine is going to go any where. I was thinking that twisting of the engine could affect the driveline and break something???
I don't hear or feel any thing unusual.
I will keep in mind your concern about the internal hooking. I wonder if the OEM actually does have this. Who would not the answer?
Thanks
I don't hear or feel any thing unusual.
I will keep in mind your concern about the internal hooking. I wonder if the OEM actually does have this. Who would not the answer?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
You would think with all the stock ones being replaced someone would have a bad one to cut open...........
don't cut it open I may want to buy it from you instead !!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,206
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From: South Florida
Excessive movement.
1. wasted energy. Vibrations, noise, energy going places it should not go.
2. impact the transmissions ability to transfer torque to the tires.
3. negatively influence shifting.
4. Twist and break the transmission mount & particular drivetrain unions
5. Lines, (A/C) hoses leading from engine may stretch, break, bend.
6. Exhaust & Intake components will warp, bend, break, exhaust will leak from gaskets as manifolds/headers are being twisted
Its not pretty. I always attach additional brace from head to the chassis to reduce movement and improve transmission behavior. I find the mounts alone being so low under the engine are not enough to maintain a high performance engine fully. Additional brace sometimes makes a big difference especially with transmission behavior.
1. wasted energy. Vibrations, noise, energy going places it should not go.
2. impact the transmissions ability to transfer torque to the tires.
3. negatively influence shifting.
4. Twist and break the transmission mount & particular drivetrain unions
5. Lines, (A/C) hoses leading from engine may stretch, break, bend.
6. Exhaust & Intake components will warp, bend, break, exhaust will leak from gaskets as manifolds/headers are being twisted
Its not pretty. I always attach additional brace from head to the chassis to reduce movement and improve transmission behavior. I find the mounts alone being so low under the engine are not enough to maintain a high performance engine fully. Additional brace sometimes makes a big difference especially with transmission behavior.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Clifton Park NY
I had a full set of AMT engine & trans mounts installed in my car (purely to tighten things up since I track my car frequently). There's DEFINITELY an increase in vibrations inside the car when you first get rolling at low speeds, off idle, but it smooths out once you're up to normal cruising speed. Thing is, because I did all 4 mounts at once, I don't know if it's more from the front or rear or a combination of them all. I'd recommend starting with just the engine mounts, since they're clearly crap from the factory, and see how it feels - it would probably be fine, and just leave the rear mounts alone.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 236
From: Oshawa Ontario
.Just for my own "curiousity", I do wonder if just replacing the engine mounts and NOT replacing the rear mounts would have resulted in a little less vibes, but I honestly don't care enough to swap them back out (...I'm more wondering what other peoples' experience is with just upgrading the engine mounts?)
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Excessive movement.
1. wasted energy. Vibrations, noise, energy going places it should not go.
2. impact the transmissions ability to transfer torque to the tires.
3. negatively influence shifting.
4. Twist and break the transmission mount & particular drivetrain unions
5. Lines, (A/C) hoses leading from engine may stretch, break, bend.
6. Exhaust & Intake components will warp, bend, break, exhaust will leak from gaskets as manifolds/headers are being twisted
Its not pretty. I always attach additional brace from head to the chassis to reduce movement and improve transmission behavior. I find the mounts alone being so low under the engine are not enough to maintain a high performance engine fully. Additional brace sometimes makes a big difference especially with transmission behavior.
1. wasted energy. Vibrations, noise, energy going places it should not go.
2. impact the transmissions ability to transfer torque to the tires.
3. negatively influence shifting.
4. Twist and break the transmission mount & particular drivetrain unions
5. Lines, (A/C) hoses leading from engine may stretch, break, bend.
6. Exhaust & Intake components will warp, bend, break, exhaust will leak from gaskets as manifolds/headers are being twisted
Its not pretty. I always attach additional brace from head to the chassis to reduce movement and improve transmission behavior. I find the mounts alone being so low under the engine are not enough to maintain a high performance engine fully. Additional brace sometimes makes a big difference especially with transmission behavior.
Much appreciated !!
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