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So I installed long tubes and within about 30 mins I got o2 heater codes. I figured I melted a sensor, but left it go for a few weeks until I could get back to it.
I get the car in the air and lo and behold, I melted the plug on the rear bank2 sensor. The wire was not damaged, but the plug was mangled and figured maybe it was not getting a good connection.
Fast forward to today….. I get some fancy dei wrap, put in a new sensor, and the damn code comes back!
I suppose the extension harness could be bad, but I really doubt it.
My scanner is some chincy Chinese thing, but all tests pass for that sensor except 1. The max count should be 8 and whatever the value is I get 9.
I see the temp measurements and everything, so the sensor is working
Any ideas before I call it quits and just get the car tuned and have the tuner shut off the rear sensors?
Current codes are:
P0056
P0160
P0161
EDIT::::::::::::I may be retarded. I thought Bank 2 was driver side, but it may be pass side? I swore my other v8's bank 1 was pass side, but now I question if I am suffering alzheimers. lol
My driver side sensor was toast, so there was some logic here I thought
Last edited by PMPerformance; May 20, 2024 at 08:50 PM.
Bank 2 is passenger side unless you are working on a Ford.
that makes sense because my other v8’s were ford’s. Lol
Any other suggestions for diagnosis ? I guess I could swap sensors and see if the code moves to the other bank. If it doesn’t, then I’ll try the extension harness?
Just weird there is no indication of damage on that side.
Any chance you may have gotten the sesor wiring reversed?Just looking for ideas.
no, because they are routed to opposite sides of the motor. Bank 1 and 2 were my previous Ford confusion.
Now to just figure out why I am getting the code if that sensor was not burnt and worked prior to swapping the headers.
I guess I will install my old burnt sensor from the other bank to test if it’s the sensor or harness. Just sucks because I just bundled them up nice in dei sleeves
So I installed long tubes and within about 30 mins I got o2 heater codes. I figured I melted a sensor, but left it go for a few weeks until I could get back to it.
I get the car in the air and lo and behold, I melted the plug on the rear bank2 sensor. The wire was not damaged, but the plug was mangled and figured maybe it was not getting a good connection.
Fast forward to today….. I get some fancy dei wrap, put in a new sensor, and the damn code comes back!
I suppose the extension harness could be bad, but I really doubt it.
My scanner is some chincy Chinese thing, but all tests pass for that sensor except 1. The max count should be 8 and whatever the value is I get 9.
I see the temp measurements and everything, so the sensor is working
Any ideas before I call it quits and just get the car tuned and have the tuner shut off the rear sensors?
Current codes are:
P0056
P0160
P0161
EDIT::::::::::::I may be retarded. I thought Bank 2 was driver side, but it may be pass side? I swore my other v8's bank 1 was pass side, but now I question if I am suffering alzheimers. lol
My driver side sensor was toast, so there was some logic here I thought
Did you check for power at the O2 sensor ??...what about the control wire which is PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) ??...what is the resistance across the heater circuit ??
Did you check for power at the O2 sensor ??...what about the control wire which is PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) ??...what is the resistance across the heater circuit ??
It’s getting power because it’s online and reading. I did not pin anything out as I don’t have circuit info.
The pinout for Bank 2 Sensor 2 below…usually the heater circuit on the sensor side of wiring are the same color wires…on the harness side the pink wire is power and the Orange/White is the PWM ground from the ECM…I’d rather use a 1 amp bulb to check for proper current instead of just checking for 12 volts at the pink wire…to check the control you might have to clear the O2 sensor codes for the heater circuit to be able to function again…hook up a test light to B+ and touch the tip to the orange/white control wire and make sure the test light flashes to signify good ECM control…if no good you should check AT the ECM to make sure you don’t have an open in the wire…could you fill out your profile so we know what model year, manual or auto trans, mods, tune etc…I’m using wiring for my 08 in this post…I had to search your posts to see you own a 2010 GS.
Yes, 2010 GS.
Thank you. I will check this out. My logic is either a wire at the sensor got damaged when pulling the stick cats down, or the extension harness was not good from the get go.
Everything Worked fine before the longtube install, but I let a little bit of the weight hang on the sensor while trying to hold the cat up and unscrewing the sensor.
Yes, 2010 GS.
Thank you. I will check this out. My logic is either a wire at the sensor got damaged when pulling the stick cats down, or the extension harness was not good from the get go.
Everything Worked fine before the longtube install, but I let a little bit of the weight hang on the sensor while trying to hold the cat up and unscrewing the sensor.
I'd first check the harness side of the heating circuit and then check your extension harness….are these OEM sensors or at least from a Tier 1 supplier ??
I'd first check the harness side of the heating circuit and then check your extension harness….are these OEM sensors or at least from a Tier 1 supplier ??
yes all the original sensors. Nothing else changed except a long tube install and then one sensor gave a code. It’s online and working, just showing slower to heat up by like 100* delta than the other and some measurement that is 1 point out of range for a failure while all other tests are fine.
yes all the original sensors. Nothing else changed except a long tube install and then one sensor gave a code. It’s online and working, just showing slower to heat up by like 100* delta than the other and some measurement that is 1 point out of range for a failure while all other tests are fine.
If it’s a little slower to heat checking current flow on the pink wire with an amp clamp would be the best way to diagnose this.
It's not uncommon to get rear O2 sensor codes after long tube header install. You moved the O2 sensors further away from the heat. It's sometimes enough that the parameters go outside GM's OEM programming expectations. Between the downstream sensor move and an aging sensor it may be just enough to trigger the codes. I'd personally just program them out with HPT since I have that option.
I don't remember if it's been suggested earlier in the thread, but you could swap sides on the rear sensors and see if the code follows. No-cost way to determine if it's possibly just an aging sensor issue.
I swapped the old known good sensor in and the code came back. Bank 1 is pretty much exactly 100* lower than bank 1
Eventually one of the tests fails (I dont know what test since my chicom reader shows some wierd attributes.
I find it weird that only the one is showing the heater issue though. I have read about moving them back and getting the codes, but on just one of them?
Long story short, I am not going to blow any time on this. I really didnt want to tune the car, but I am going to just suck it up and tune it to avoid screwing around with diagnosing something that will later be turned off anyway.
I literally waited for the right deal for a catted longtube setup to avoid these issues. lol. Just my luck.
Befuddled with o2 heater code
