When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2011 Base Coupe that only occasionally starts.The guage cluster doesn't work at all but the hud does work.The radio doesn't work either. The interior and exterior lights,signals, and brake lights work. All fuses are good in the fuse box and the bcm. I've cleaned the grounds on the frame rails and the battery terminals. I checked the connections at the starter but all looks normal. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
There are a couple of grounds under the battery that have been known to cause issues. Also take a look at the bottom of the fuse box, remove it and inspect it for any slight burn marks or any fuses that might not be making a solid connection.
There are a couple of grounds under the battery that have been known to cause issues. Also take a look at the bottom of the fuse box, remove it and inspect it for any slight burn marks or any fuses that might not be making a solid connection.
I've cleaned the grounds but i will check the fuse box.
If you have a scan tool that can read all modules (not a code reader) see if you have any stored codes…there may be some stored that may help in a diagnosis…you may have some communication issues on the low speed serial data bus and these 2 modules are on there…if that bus is shorted to power or ground the car will not start..look for “U” or communication codes stored on the scan tool…I’ve actually proved this to someone by grounding out that bus (pin 2 on the DLC (where you hook up you’re scan tool to) and the car did not start…the bus is “fault tolerant” and can survive if either shorted to ground or 12 volts…the RCDLR is also on that bus and if that module which communicates with the BCM for the car to start is compromised you will have a no start…when you push the start button and the car does not start do you hear some “clicks” or “crinkling” sounds coming from the RCDLR which is located above the radio…if your hear “no clicks you will have a “no start” !!
Man pull the passenger side floor covering and check all the connections on all of the modules down there. I would pull each off and maybe hit them all with contact cleaner and reseat them. There are also modules under the passenger side fender behind the hinges that you can get to by pulling the wheel fender well cover off on the bottom behind wheel. Then pull the fuse box apart and check to make sure that all the pins and connections are good between the upper and lower fuse block.
I have attached the wiring diagram that says it's for a 07 but it should be enough to give you a better look at what may be happening to help you out.
If you have a scan tool that can read all modules (not a code reader) see if you have any stored codes…there may be some stored that may help in a diagnosis…you may have some communication issues on the low speed serial data bus and these 2 modules are on there…if that bus is shorted to power or ground the car will not start..look for “U” or communication codes stored on the scan tool…I’ve actually proved this to someone by grounding out that bus (pin 2 on the DLC (where you hook up you’re scan tool to) and the car did not start…the bus is “fault tolerant” and can survive if either shorted to ground or 12 volts…the RCDLR is also on that bus and if that module which communicates with the BCM for the car to start is compromised you will have a no start…when you push the start button and the car does not start do you hear some “clicks” or “crinkling” sounds coming from the RCDLR which is located above the radio…if your hear “no clicks you will have a “no start” !!
No it does not click. The car will start if you try about 15 or 20 times. But when it does start the guages and radio still don't work.
Last edited by Gman's 14; Sep 18, 2024 at 10:51 PM.
Reason: ad information
Man pull the passenger side floor covering and check all the connections on all of the modules down there. I would pull each off and maybe hit them all with contact cleaner and reseat them. There are also modules under the passenger side fender behind the hinges that you can get to by pulling the wheel fender well cover off on the bottom behind wheel. Then pull the fuse box apart and check to make sure that all the pins and connections are good between the upper and lower fuse block.
I have attached the wiring diagram that says it's for a 07 but it should be enough to give you a better look at what may be happening to help you out.
No it does not click. The car will start if you try about 15 or 20 times. But when it does start the guages and radio still don't work.
OK, both the radio and IPC are located on 2 separate splice packs…JX205 and JX208 and one is located to the left on the audio amplifier down by the passenger footwell and the other is to the left of the steering column…what I do is remove the 2 “combs” or bus bars that connect all those modules together and I would jump the RCDLR to the data bus wire and leave all of the other modules off the bus…what we can try is to remove the fuses off the radio and IPC and then see if the car starts consistently…let me look up those fuses.
Ok, the IPC fuse is at the BCM and labeled CLSTR/HUD and the Radio fuse is fuse 31 AMP in the underhood fuse block and the other is labeled RDO/S-BAND /VICS and that one is located at the BCM…one of those 2 modules may be responsible for the no start.
The splice packs look like this…you pop off the gray “comb” or bus bar from the top of the splice pack and with the comb removed all of the modules are isolated from each other…picture below of splice pack and “comb”…I just did a 8 hour refresher CAN Bus diagnostics class a few months ago…maybe my training comes in handy here…LOL !!…BTW, if you know how to use a DVOM we can check some voltages at pin 2 of the DLC and see if we see 12 volts or ground…both are no good…the bus when “talking” is a VPW (Variable Pulse Width) of 7 volts and when “recessive “ or not talking is 0 volts…with a DVOM you will see a fluctuating 0.2 to 0.3 volt reading if everything is good…with a lab scope you will see a 0-7 volt signal and it is measured in millionths of a second…video below on CAN bus diagnostics…maybe 1 in a 1000 shops whether dealerships or general repair shops can diagnose these problems…a factory level scan tool, scope, and break out box is the best equipment to have to diagnose this.
The splice packs look like this…you pop off the gray “comb” or bus bar from the top of the splice pack and with the comb removed all of the modules are isolated from each other…picture below of splice pack and “comb”…I just did a 8 hour refresher CAN Bus diagnostics class a few months ago…maybe my training comes in handy here…LOL !!…BTW, if you know how to use a DVOM we can check some voltages at pin 2 of the DLC and see if we see 12 volts or ground…both are no good…the bus when “talking” is a VPW (Variable Pulse Width) of 7 volts and when “recessive “ or not talking is 0 volts…with a DVOM you will see a fluctuating 0.2 to 0.3 volt reading if everything is good…with a lab scope you will see a 0-7 volt signal and it is measured in millionths of a second…video below on CAN bus diagnostics…maybe 1 in a 1000 shops whether dealerships or general repair shops can diagnose these problems…a factory level scan tool, scope, and break out box is the best equipment to have to diagnose this.
The B1325:03 may have set due to trying to start the car with low battery voltage or maybe a charging issue with the car...the U1000 description says "Class 2 Data Link" so we may have a Serial data Bus issue, but we don't know which module is reporting the problem. The P0650 relates to the check Engine Light so that may be because of the IPC cluster having problems and the ECM is not seeing the check engine light when it is supposed to be seeing it...the C0561 means that the EBCM is not receiving a serial data message and it's not receiving a data message from the IPC so again it will set a DTC...I'm thinking maybe the IPC is causing your issues but then again I'd be using my Scan Tool, Breakout Box and Lab Scope to verify...your options without this equipment as shown in the video may be to try to remove the IPC fuse at the BCM or remove both splice pack "combs" and just jumper a wire from the RCLDR (pink wire on pin D) on the JX208 splice pack near the audio amplifier to the purple wire (A) on the other splice pack JX205...by doing this we only have the RCLDR on the data bus and that module is the only module needed to start the car other than the ECM and BCM....if you think this may be over your head find an auto electric shop in your neighborhood and they should be able to diagnose this rather easily...I hope !!...if you have a DVOM you can check the voltage on pin 2 on the DLC (where the scan tool connects to) when the car is not starting and see if you can put the car in ACCY mode or RUN (with the green light on) so the modules will start communicating...if you see 12 volts that's bad and if you see low voltage near ground that is bad too...again you will see voltage dancing around 0.2 to 0.4 volts if good....let me ground out and apply 12 volts to my pin 2 and see if I can get the car in ACCY or RUN mode....with the car off no modules are communicating after about 15 minutes after shutting off the car and the modules "go to sleep".
The B1325:03 may have set due to trying to start the car with low battery voltage or maybe a charging issue with the car...the U1000 description says "Class 2 Data Link" so we may have a Serial data Bus issue, but we don't know which module is reporting the problem. The P0650 relates to the check Engine Light so that may be because of the IPC cluster having problems and the ECM is not seeing the check engine light when it is supposed to be seeing it...the C0561 means that the EBCM is not receiving a serial data message and it's not receiving a data message from the IPC so again it will set a DTC...I'm thinking maybe the IPC is causing your issues but then again I'd be using my Scan Tool, Breakout Box and Lab Scope to verify...your options without this equipment as shown in the video may be to try to remove the IPC fuse at the BCM or remove both splice pack "combs" and just jumper a wire from the RCLDR (pink wire on pin D) on the JX208 splice pack near the audio amplifier to the purple wire (A) on the other splice pack JX205...by doing this we only have the RCLDR on the data bus and that module is the only module needed to start the car other than the ECM and BCM....if you think this may be over your head find an auto electric shop in your neighborhood and they should be able to diagnose this rather easily...I hope !!...if you have a DVOM you can check the voltage on pin 2 on the DLC (where the scan tool connects to) when the car is not starting and see if you can put the car in ACCY mode or RUN (with the green light on)...if you see 12 volts that's bad and if you see low voltage near ground that is bad too...again you will see voltage dancing around 0.2 to 0.4 volts if good....let me ground out and apply 12 volts to my pin 2 and see if I can get the car in ACCY or RUN mode....with the car off no modules are communicating after about 15 minutes after shutting off the car and the modules "go to sleep".
I have a Autel Maxicom MK808S scan tool. Not sure it's capable of doing all of what you have mentioned. Can i send you a video (in private messaging) of what the car is doing at a attempted startup?
I have a Autel Maxicom MK808S scan tool. Not sure it's capable of doing all of what you have mentioned. Can i send you a video (in private messaging) of what the car is doing at a attempted startup?
You can if you want but I really don't think it will help...when I grounded pin 2 I could not get the car in ACCY or Run mode...Radio went dead as well as Power Windows and Door Locks...the Radio completely shut off...the IPC went dead also...I don't know if this issue is intermittent or not...that Autel is one of the ones I recommend on the Forum that is not to expensive. I have the MS906 and with yours you should be able to scan all the modules...if you can select any module and look at "Live Data" that means the module is communicating with the scan tool...like I said try removing those fuses and depower that module and see what happens...if you want to let a shop handle this here is one in your town.
2011 Base Coupe that only occasionally starts.The guage cluster doesn't work at all but the hud does work.The radio doesn't work either. The interior and exterior lights,signals, and brake lights work. All fuses are good in the fuse box and the bcm. I've cleaned the grounds on the frame rails and the battery terminals. I checked the connections at the starter but all looks normal. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Your profile says you have a 2014…if you do have a 2011 you should probably change it.
Help with my C6 issues
