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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by KenHorse
Did I say anything about CTEK? No I didn't.

There are plenty of decent maintenance chargers out there that work fine and are a fraction of the cost of the one GM sells for the Vette.

Thanks for playing
I don't want decent, I want the best or nothing.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by post-it
I don't want decent, I want the best or nothing.
Psssst... don't tell anyone but the technology used in pretty much all quality maintenance chargers is pretty much the same. It's not rocket science.

(you pay for the bells and whistles and perhaps current capability more than the technology. For battery tenders, more than 1.5 amps current capability is a complete waste of $$)
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KenHorse
Psssst... don't tell anyone but the technology used in pretty much all quality maintenance chargers is pretty much the same. It's not rocket science.

(you pay for the bells and whistles and perhaps current capability more than the technology. For battery tenders, more than 1.5 amps current capability is a complete waste of $$)
Every market has it's leader. Apple, Samsung and for battery maintenance it is CTEK. Do some research!
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by post-it
Every market has it's leader. Apple, Samsung and for battery maintenance it is CTEK. Do some research!
yeah but what he is saying is there is nothing the ctek does that a battery tender or others do as well...you are paying for the corvette logo by GM....and it's not huge technology like apple or android does, to charge at 1.25 amp and sense how to 3 stage a batt charge (called intelligent chargers)

http://batterytender.com/products/au...fficiency.html

It does not really matter, the vette is only $100, but others are as good is the point...

Last edited by Glen e; Nov 13, 2013 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by post-it
Every market has it's leader. Apple, Samsung and for battery maintenance it is CTEK. Do some research!
Market leadership doesn't always mean superior technology (Betamax versus VHS comes to mind).

Anyway, do as you will..........
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:25 PM
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I took the lights out in the back, they come out easy and unplug easy, then I set the hatch down, run the cord down the side with some towel protection, then put the cover on..works great. I would never slam the hatch shut with the cord in there
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JWLaRue
On my C6 I routed the wires from the battery out the left side of the front grill. I have a quick disconnect right at the grill that allows me to...well disconnect and then tuck the wire/plug back inside the grill area.

I've even managed to forget to disconnect it and back out of the garage...the quick disconnect simply separated.

I don't know if that's possible with the C7, but that's what I will try doing.

-Jeff

I did the same thing as you did with my C6 and backed out of the garage but the quick disconnect didn't separate, it broke. Problem with that connection now is where do you hook up to a viable 12V connection in the engine compartment now that the battery is in the back. I think I'll use CRABByJ's idea and just put up a sign on the windshield that says "charging".
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Wasn't there a vender of the forum that manufactured a pretty smart little quick disconnect that ran the charger cable out from under the grill?
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Silverblue
Wasn't there a vender of the forum that manufactured a pretty smart little quick disconnect that ran the charger cable out from under the grill?
Yes this one is made for the C6 grill, I am waiting for the C7 item.

http://www.qpcpv.com/topflightreproductions/index.html

Does anyone know where the battery terminals are under the hood?
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by george vee
Yes this one is made for the C6 grill, I am waiting for the C7 item.

http://www.qpcpv.com/topflightreproductions/index.html

Does anyone know where the battery terminals are under the hood?


The positive terminal, in the first picture, is alongside the fuse box on the passenger side closest to the windshield. It's covered by a plastic cover which you can flip up from the fender side.

The second picture is the positive terminal after flipping up the cover.


A good ground, the third picture, is located on passenger side down and to the right of the alternator
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Last edited by StevieK; Feb 27, 2018 at 01:45 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 03:58 PM
  #31  
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Thanks.

And you can drop the 12v line down to underneath the car and not have to leave the windows cracked or the wire mashed onto the weather seal, and put the cover on for the winter.

Last edited by MoabC7; Nov 20, 2013 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Added comment/suggestion.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MoabC7
Thanks.

And you can drop the 12v line down to underneath the car and not have to leave the windows cracked or the wire mashed onto the weather seal, and put the cover on for the winter.
That's great. Too bad GM could not have told us this important information.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 09:23 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by StevieK
The positive terminal is alongside the fuse box on the passenger side closest to the windshield. It's covered by a plastic cover which you can flip up from the fender side.



This is the positive terminal after flipping up the cover



Here's a good ground located on passenger side down and to the right of the alternator
Thanks
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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What's the trick to releasing the plastic cover. I've tried, but it's being ornery and I don't want to break it.

Thanks.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by MoabC7
What's the trick to releasing the plastic cover. I've tried, but it's being ornery and I don't want to break it.

Thanks.
This works somewhat for me. Try to slide the cover rearward while pulling it up. Once it is open then maybe you can file down a tab. I don't like the idea of having such a tight cover on the positive terminal as you may be tempted to use a prybar and short something out.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by green2000
This works somewhat for me. Try to slide the cover rearward while pulling it up. Once it is open then maybe you can file down a tab. I don't like the idea of having such a tight cover on the positive terminal as you may be tempted to use a prybar and short something out.
So simple. Mine released fairly easily with that rearward pull & lift. Thanks.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by StevieK
The positive terminal is alongside the fuse box on the passenger side closest to the windshield. It's covered by a plastic cover which you can flip up from the fender side.



This is the positive terminal after flipping up the cover

Can you use this terminal for an aftermarket battery tender?

Here's a good ground located on passenger side down and to the right of the alternator
Can you use this terminal for an after market battery tender?
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by robertbrucef
Can you use this terminal for an after market battery tender?
Yes - but what I did was use a spot on the alternator. Before I plugged my charger (2 amp setting) in, I checked the voltage with a tester on the clips so I knew it was a good ground. Turn it on and you're home free. It took 2 hours to go from 12.3 to a fully charged state of 13.0 volts (checked with ithe charger disconnected to get a true reading).
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by StevieK
I did the same thing as you did with my C6 and backed out of the garage but the quick disconnect didn't separate, it broke. Problem with that connection now is where do you hook up to a viable 12V connection in the engine compartment now that the battery is in the back.
Why don't you guys just get a charger that hooks up to the cigarette lighter outlet? That's what I did with my C5, and am doing with my C6.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:52 PM
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Default Don't do it!!!!!!!

i have investigated a number of fires caused by power cords having external stresses applied. The application of stresses(closing door/trunk) may cause resistive heating leading to a fire. i have been a fire investigator for almost 30 years and have seen numerous car charger fires. just finished an investigation involving an original "Morgan" on a charger. find a way to keep external stress off the cord. same holds true in your house. don't put power cord under carpeting or under a piece of furniture. i don't need any more business. "Be Safe".
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