The “Mild to Wild switch was originally designed to be located inside the car at the fuse box under the passenger side floor board on C6s. This is an area of moderate temperature. How well it will hold up with the higher temperatures in the engine compartment is still a question mark. Obviously I have not been able to run a 300,000 mile certification. I’m providing this information as a mod that I made to my car, and has worked to my satisfaction for the past three months. Your results may vary. The mod is easily reversible by removing the ground wire, and the price of a new fuse box lid. (About $15 for the lid)

For those of you that have a “Mild to Wild” switch left over from your C6 you may be interested in converting it for use on your C7. Mine laid on my work bench all winter while I procrastinated on making a decision to try and sell it, or just push it off the end of the bench into the trash can. After a few weeks driving in the spring I made up my mind that I had to do something about the factory’s decision to close the valves during those periods when drone would be present; even though I had my settings for Engine sound management set to, “Track,”

My car is an A8 so I still have to contend with the Active Fuel Management valves closing when in automatic mode, but I can use manual paddle mode to avoid those if it becomes annoying. Those quiet spells due to AFM are usually under light throttle conditions when the exhaust is pretty quiet anyway. I’ve achieved the best results by setting sound management to “Stealth” mode. The Engine starts, and remains with the NPP valves open; if I wish to quiet it down I use the M to W remote which closes the valves regardless of the driving mode I’m in.

Some people have resorted to running two wires from the fuse box to a switch inside the interior of the car to achieve the same result. I figured if I could fit the “M to W” control box inside the fuse box I would just need to run a single ground wire from the fuse box to a chassis ground. Such a ground is available on the frame just a few inches in front of the fuse box.

I removed the two screws holding the “M to W” box together and found that the relay is rated for 15 Amps. This is more than adequate for my purposes. From there it was just a matter of changing the, “Add a circuit,” fuse tap from the existing, “Mini,” fuse style to one that would fit the, “Micro 2,” fuse used on the C7s. I couldn’t locate one locally, but they are available from several sources through Amazon. It doesn’t matter which “Micro 2 Add a Circuit” you get, because they are all the same, but the fuses have different ratings. You will replace the fuse that came with the “Add a Circuit” with the fuse currently protecting the NPP circuit. (Fuse 41 for 2014s, or Fuse 42 for 2015s)

The top part of the case will be left off to provide clearance under the fuse box lid. The bottom half of the case, with the circuit board glued to it, should be cut off on the opposite end from where the wires exit. This will provide clearance for other fuses located in the fuse box.



Insert white wire from “M to W” in the “Add a Circuit,” at the position shown in the next photo. Replace the fuse that came with your “Add a Circuit.” with the 20 Amp fuse for NPP at location 41 or 42 depending on the year of your car. When you plug in the “Add a Circuit” orient it so that the red wire is pointing toward the front of the car.





Now to the ground circuit. On the “M to W’ box this consists of 2 black wires terminating with a crimped on forked terminal. I replaced the forked terminal with a disconnect terminal that can pass through a hole I drilled into the side of the lid. The hole has a rubber grommet installed. I then prepared a 12 gauge wire (simply because that’s what size I had laying around) to run from the chassis ground up to the fuse box. I used a ring terminal on the chassis end, and the mate to the disconnect terminal used on the black wire from the “M to W” box.
The Blue wire is the antenna, and should be routed with as few turns as possible.
The rest of the pictures should be obvious, and need no further explanation.

Ed

 

 

Much easier to just pull fuse #42, it's not like they are all that loud. 7am's time to get up anyway.

 

 

There's another thread on it, but it appears there are two different M2W's out there. One starts open all the time, the other starts closed all the time....

 

Mine starts open. I don't understand what the problem is with that. If I want the car to start closed, I just hold down the Homelink button as I start the car, and it starts closed. Sometimes I leave for work at 4-5 a.m., and the system simply works as it should.

 

Maybe you haven't owned a C6, but the Mild2Wild controller for the C6 had two modes of operation. Normal and a "zero drain" mode.

The normal mode of operation for the C6 M2W allowed for it to remember what mode (open/closed) was last used when you shut off the car. If you shut off the car in quiet mode, it started in quiet mode. Shutdown in loud, start in loud. You get the idea.

C6 M2W Zero drain mode appears to operate like the C7 M2W does. Simply an on/off switch with no memory capability.

My issue is that I don't see why going from the older less intelligent C6 generation to the modern generation C7 would LOSE FUNCTIONALITY, meaning that we no longer have access to the C6 M2W standard mode of operation with the startup/shutdown memory ability. My problem is that the M2W controller now has less options for functionality on a car with more options and ability to adjust settings.

You may be satisfied with the existing C7 M2W product, but I am not after having used the C6 M2W controller for a couple of years.

 

My biggest issue with the M2W for the C7 version, which sounds like maybe it could be eliminated with the C6 version, is the fact that it takes 2 buttons on my HomeLink setup. One to open, one to close. Why not just have one button toggle it from one mode to the other? Seems very wasteful when I could be using the other button for something else....

The C6 version does sound interesting, but I'd probably use it one way all the time once I found one I liked. Seems like they could make it where you have options to choose any of those methods (start on, start off, or start based on last used) and let that be user selectable as everyone seems to have their way that they like it.

 

Posts #23 and 25 on the link below sum up the C6 M2W controller pretty well. Quoted below the link as well.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-method-2.html

 

ALRIGHT FOLKS. I took this into my own hands and reverse engineered (hardly) the C6 M2W install methods utilizing the seat heaters, and was able to make this work for the C7. Instructions to follow in a new thread.

It works exactly as I described above. You turn the car off in quiet mode and it starts in quiet mode, same thing for loud shutdown/startup.

Post is up. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mory-mode.html

 

I've been chasing this through the rabbit hole for about an hour and came to the same conclusion. It's a Corvette. It's not supposed to be quiet. Besides, I haven't pissed of the HOA in a week or so. Sounds like adding a Range to keep it in V8 mode and pulling fuse 42 solves the issue on both ends.