When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For upgrading Stingray to Z06 wide body, I still have three questions.
1.If I just do side and rear section,do I need part2-7 in the picture of Aperture Panel section?
2.Do I need part 18 in the picture of bumper cover section?
3.I have got 2 Aperture Panels 2 Rear quarter panel 2Rear wheelhouse liner 1 Rear Fascia 2Upper Reinforced 2 Rear Bumper side grills 1 Fuel door 6Rear bumper retainer 2bots already. What else do I need to finish side and rear section?
For upgrading Stingray to Z06 wide body, I still have three questions.
1.If I just do side and rear section,do I need part2-7 in the picture of Aperture Panel section?
2.Do I need part 18 in the picture of bumper cover section?
3.I have got 2 Aperture Panels 2 Rear quarter panel 2Rear wheelhouse liner 1 Rear Fascia 2Upper Reinforced 2 Rear Bumper side grills 1 Fuel door 6Rear bumper retainer 2bots already. What else do I need to finish side and rear section?
Is the tail lamp mount molded to the bumper or is it a replaceable part (green arrow below)?
Those appear to be welded on mounts. Don't remember the exact term, but they use sound waves to "weld" those to the bumper. It was in the How's It Made tv show.
Originally Posted by cello002 For upgrading Stingray to Z06 wide body, I still have three questions.
1.If I just do side and rear section,do I need part2-7 in the picture of Aperture Panel section?
2.Do I need part 18 in the picture of bumper cover section?
3.I have got 2 Aperture Panels 2 Rear quarter panel 2Rear wheelhouse liner 1 Rear Fascia 2Upper Reinforced 2 Rear Bumper side grills 1 Fuel door 6Rear bumper retainer 2bots already. What else do I need to finish side and rear section?
1. No, those are all common parts. The originals stay on the car, and only #2 needs to be removed and replaced after the new panel is mounted.
2. No, that's the crumple bar and the original stays on the car.
3. Not sure what the last thing on your list is: 6Rear bumper retainer 2bot, but you'll need the two retainer pieces shown in the photos below. They come with three large, bright orange clamps already mounted on each piece, right and left:
Nice work! Is the tail lamp mount molded to the bumper or is it a replaceable part (green arrow below)?
Those come from the factory already attached to the rear bumper cover. They are 'hot glued' on, for lack of a better term. A machine actually melts them and makes a waffle impression which sticks to the flexible material of the body panel. About six months ago I actually had a section of that bond come loose on the far edge of the old panel, which caused it to sag out of position. I removed the panel and epoxied it back together, problem solved.
No, only on the aperture panel around the door. The front edge of the quarter panel lays over the rear edge of the aperture and screws down. It also screws to the body at the side of the rear hatch opening.
Hey I was going to PM ya, but figured the info would be better here...
2 things
how do you get the hatch release connected to the rear bumper loose??? Does it twist off? Mine barley moves haha
The drivers side quarter, how do you get the fuel evap and etc removed to remove the quarter panel... I have the lid off but everything behind the door I am not able to disconnect from the quarter panel
Hey I was going to PM ya, but figured the info would be better here...
2 things
how do you get the hatch release connected to the rear bumper loose??? Does it twist off? Mine barley moves haha
The drivers side quarter, how do you get the fuel evap and etc removed to remove the quarter panel... I have the lid off but everything behind the door I am not able to disconnect from the quarter panel
On the hatch release, there are two of them, one for the bayonet key in the fob and one for the push button. IIRC, the one for the push button has a connector plug in the wiring that gets disconnected and the one for the key has a solenoid at the end of the cable which slides sideways out of its cradle/clip on the rear bumper. The wiring connectors always baffle me on this car, sometimes I can get them unplugged but sometimes they are beyond me. I just end up playing with them until they release.
On the fuel connections, after removing the door, unscrew the three torx screws under the rubber flap around the edge of the door. Then disconnect two connections from underneath, accessed when the wheel well liner has been removed: the door locking arm and the vent tube. The collar around the filler neck can then be twisted and pulled out through the door opening. That is another operation where you just have to play with it until it comes out. Then the quarter panel is free to be pulled away.
On the hatch release, there are two of them, one for the bayonet key in the fob and one for the push button. IIRC, the one for the push button has a connector plug in the wiring that gets disconnected and the one for the key has a solenoid at the end of the cable which slides sideways out of its cradle/clip on the rear bumper. The wiring connectors always baffle me on this car, sometimes I can get them unplugged but sometimes they are beyond me. I just end up playing with them until they release.
On the fuel connections, after removing the door, unscrew the three torx screws under the rubber flap around the edge of the door. Then disconnect two connections from underneath, accessed when the wheel well liner has been removed: the door locking arm and the vent tube. The collar around the filler neck can then be twisted and pulled out through the door opening. That is another operation where you just have to play with it until it comes out. Then the quarter panel is free to be pulled away.
Entire rear section off, doors done (able to do it without touching front fenders) and seats out...
only thing left to do is remove the aperture rocker panel!!! Jet I have the heat gun I bought from ya, going to start with heat and then see if I can pull a section away
Jet or anyone's else.. the outside A pillar has a small torx bit near the bottom, after removing this can the A pillar just pop off???
Jet post 56 has 2 pics of what I'm talking about
There are a couple more torx screws under the weather strip along the pillar toward the roof. You don't have to remove it all the way, just up to about six inches from the roof end of the pillar. Pull the rubber strip away to get to those torx, it goes back in pretty easily.
There are a couple more torx screws under the weather strip along the pillar toward the roof. You don't have to remove it all the way, just up to about six inches from the roof end of the pillar. Pull the rubber strip away to get to those torx, it goes back in pretty easily.
JV
Thanks again Jet, when I get back to my shop I'll do this and get the last part of the rocker aperture off (that portion that's below the A-pillar)
I pulled on the a pillar a little bit just knew it should come off easier, I'll loosen this extra torx and see what I can do... I remember seeing Rivets there too
Jet,
Great Job. I'm very impressed with what you have done. The finished project looks awesome, it's a beautiful looking beast.
Thanks for the thread and pictures.
DFA
Yes, you can do the side and rear panels only. Only one very small detail will not match up, and that is where the the rocker panel (at the lower front end of the aperture panel, right below the front edge of the door) meets the bottom rear of the front fender. One will be slightly convex and the other will be slightly concave.
Stingray / Z51 side skirts will not fit on a Z06 rocker panel, the Z06 aperture has a very different shape.
The rear lower valance from your Stingray will match the Z06 rear bumper cover. The new upper bumper cover is wider, but so are the vents that fit in the vertical openings on each side, and that makes up the difference.
I'll PM you with all the part numbers for the extra parts you'll need.
JV
Thanks for your reply, I'm consider doing the whole car wide body switch from Stingray to Z06. Could you please PM all part numbers from large piece like body panel to small pieces like retainers? BTW do I have to up grade side skrit from Stingray to Z06?Thanks.
Those come from the factory already attached to the rear bumper cover. They are 'hot glued' on, for lack of a better term. A machine actually melts them and makes a waffle impression which sticks to the flexible material of the body panel.
Think this might be the "ultrasonic welding" process that is referred to in the How It's Made video? (Fast forward to 4m53s)
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
