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Waze is only as good as the first person posting a speed trap or lone LEO with a laser or radar.
Works better in tandem with a detector.
Waze is not reliable as a stand-alone. RDs are reliable as a stand-alone device (some are pretty darn good). Waze is also less effective on the highway; the denser the population (presumably higher report rate) the better. Waze is virtually useless in the "country."
Oh, and don't forget that the cops use Waze as well, and as soon as they are reported, they move shop.
I have pretty much had them all and can tell you that every radar detector has its strengths and weaknesses, and that's why I own multiple detectors depending on the driving task at hand and the primary Band(s) that's utilized in the area in which I will be traveling (KA/K/X/Laser). For instance, in my local region authorities use strictly Stalker KA Radar guns (34.7 frequency) so I use detectors that are tested and proven to be great at picking up that frequency at maximum distances with optimal off axis capabilities. When I travel across State lines I prep for my trip by looking up what radar bands are currently being used in those regions in which I will be traveling through. Once I have this information in hand I activate or deactivate those bands accordingly as I travel.
For an all in one unit with directional awareness, and a somewhat quiet ride while in urban areas I use a Max 360 or my Uniden DRF7. For just all out raw performance/range (interstate driving) I use a Escort Redline or my Uniden R3. Honestly the Valentine V1 is on par with the Max 360 when paired with a phone and its companion apps, which are for those who would like to tweak and fine tune. Keep in mind that the Redline was recently discontinued but a little searching you can pick one up on the cheap. It was the King of WS detectors until the Uniden R3 hit the scene, which has unequivocally the best range and off axis detection of any WS detector on the market today. It can be used in all situations becuase its features can be activated/deactivated for traveling on winding roads and/or complicated terrain, in addition to flat terrain and city driving. If you ask a radar enthusiast his or her opinion on the top tier windshield mounted radar detector that can be had today, without a doubt the Uniden R3 will be highly recommended.
Every detector mentioned above can be had for <$400 with the exception of the Max 360. If I had no choice but to only own but 1 of the detectors that was mentioned above, it would be without hesitation the Uniden R3 (new kid on the block) that has pretty much every feature that the Max 360 has minus the Auto lockout feature thats patented by Escort. The R3 has range that's unbelievable (miles) and can hold its own during city driving pretty much filtering out most CAS/BSM false alerts from car manufacturers except for Acura. I don't think no manufacturer has cracked the code on how to filter Acura's BSMs completely.
I'm also a long time radar detector enthusiast and closely follow new developments in this area. Again, based on the driving task at hand either detector I mentioned above will not disappoint and will protect you if you understand their weaknesses. I usually have Waze connected via bluetooth and set it up to announce alerts over my speakers, in addition to my detector. This combo is pretty much a bulletproof method to avoid tickets.
Thanks
I like you!
Although, if you can tell me where to buy another Redline for less than "$400," you will be my hero!
I've been using the Rocky Mountain Radar detector/scambler combo for over 15 years. The latest is called "The Judge" and have it in both cars and works very well. Really quiet with almost no false alarms and when it does go off its scrambling the return signal or laser to buy some time. I will only use these in my cars.
I thought of the idea of an installed RD, but the idea of having my car taken apart (OK, maybe just some internal trim pieces) really did not sit well. So I went with a hard-wired V1. After years of near-mirror mounts, I moved a few years ago to this approach. I like it way better. Easy access for wiring via the rear fuse box.
Forgot to add that the Uniden R3 comes in another variant, the Uniden R1, which is identical to the R3 in all aspects except it lacks the GPS chip used for lockouts, quiet ride and over speed alerts. Other than that its performance is identical to its big brother R3, and it's more readily available to buy now opposed to the R3. The R1 does have a K filter feature that's should quiet it down a bit when it comes to CAS/BSM falses.
Once the demand dies down for the R3(August) I suspect it'll be easier to get your hands on one if you need to have GPS functionalities. if you need a ***** to the wall performer, the R1 will not disapppoint. The Uniden R1/R3 are starting to carry the title as "The Police Finder" because of their ability to sniff out radar at long distances and unparalleled off axis capabilities.
Last edited by thorissr; Jul 2, 2017 at 08:44 PM.
Reason: Typo
How do you setup Waze to announce alerts like this? Are you setting a destination, or does it come on and mention an alert no matter where you are?
Thanks
You don't have to set a destination. Run through the options and make sure its set to report speed traps (or red light cameras, or anything else), and just bring up the app and let it run. Its also very useful for pothole reports.
People here talking about the V1 - unless something has been improved recently, I found the upgrade from 2 years ago falses on laser alot. In fact, just test it by pointing the unit at your display screen and see if the laser alert goes off. That's why I stopped using it, those laser falses cause you to jump on the brakes right away. Especially at night, alot of other light sources make it false on laser - sure if you are driving in an undeveloped area, you won't have those.
Forgot to add that the Uniden R3 comes in another variant, the Uniden R1, which is identical to the R3 in all aspects except it lacks the GPS chip used for lockouts, quiet ride and over speed alerts. Other than that its performance is identical to its big brother R3, and it's more readily available to buy now opposed to the R3. The R1 does have a K filter feature that's should quiet it down a bit when it comes to CAS/BSM falses.
Once the demand dies down for the R3(August) I suspect it'll be easier to get your hands on one if you need to have GPS functionalities. if you need a ***** to the wall performer, the R1 will not disapppoint. The Uniden R1/R3 are starting to carry the title as "The Police Finder" because of their ability to sniff out radar at long distances and unparalleled off axis capabilities.
My R3 is due to ship July 15, 2017. Ordered from BRD. He has 400 units on back order. Holding off on a road trip till the R3 gets to me. Blend Mount is also on B/O for the R3 C7 Corvette mount.
I thought of the idea of an installed RD, but the idea of having my car taken apart (OK, maybe just some internal trim pieces) really did not sit well. So I went with a hard-wired V1. After years of near-mirror mounts, I moved a few years ago to this approach. I like it way better. Easy access for wiring via the rear fuse box.
What fuse or wires did you use in the rear fuse box ? And does it shut off when the ignition is off ? Thank you in advance
Valentine V1 mounted on Blendmount with mirror tap for power. I keep the V1 in the center console and only takes 5-10 seconds to attach/detach for security. I didn't like having to remove the trim piece behind the mirror for the mirror tap power connection but the clean installation was worth the effort.
While no RD is perfect, there is no question that the V1 has paid for itself since installation.
I've been saved by laser twice by my V1. Granted that's only twice in 25 years, but I've had zero tickets at all in that time, so they were important tickets to me!
In both cases I was overtaking a slower vehicle, or coming around one, and picked up scatter from that car before it was aimed directly at me, giving me time to scrub speed.
I need to get my V1 updated though, it thinks every Mazda is laser now...
What fuse or wires did you use in the rear fuse box ? And does it shut off when the ignition is off ? Thank you in advance
Originally Posted by TheVettePirate
I'd like to know also, Thanks
Sure thing! Fuse 37 in the rear fuse box, the same fuse that protects the Front Accessory Power Outlet. I just used a Fuse Tap and ran a single hot wire forward. I picked up a ground using a bolt under the dash. No tools or anything, just threaded the wire forward and pushed it under various trim pieces. It is a switched outlet, so shuts off when ignition is off.
If a radar detector is used to speed, you will get caught eventually. Even if you don't get a speeding ticket in my state you can (and will) get an "Imprudent Speed" ticket. It is a ticket that all the officer has to do is say "it looked like he was going too fast". There is no defense, I tried!
I went with the V1. I use it as a friendly reminder more than total protection.
Pros and cons worth noting.
The V1 doesn't use GPS to mark known false alarms. The thought process is that once the GPS marks it, it no longer responds to alerts at that location. What happens when it is a real alert? It just ignores it? I find this to be a double edge sword, there are many traffic monitoring devices that use the K band and give false alerts. For me this is mainly specific highway signs in my state and it is annoying. Most of the actual radar is Ka band around here so I mentally lock out the signs now.
The V1 touring has a data plug that monitors current speed and is adjustable to set a speed threshold (I set mine at 30 mph), this automatically mutes alarms when below that speed. This significantly helps with in town driving since it knows I am not speeding so it doesn't alert me.
OP, the V1 is not a hidden unit like the Passport 9500CI. The V1 does have a "Dark" mode so that it isn't flashing away on the visor when used with the remote. It also can be used with Bluetooth to display and configure with your phone.
If you want the total protection package there is currently only 1 device that delivers and it is the new Escort Max CI 360 and will set you back about $3600-3800 installed.
My understanding is that GPS-based units like the Escort only block a specific frequency, not the entire band, when you block out a false alarm.
How unique that signature is I don't know. For example, if you block a K-band speed sign and then a police officer sets up with K-band radar at that same location, will it detect it? The marketing reads like it will, but I don't know the reality.
My understanding is that GPS-based units like the Escort only block a specific frequency, not the entire band, when you block out a false alarm.
How unique that signature is I don't know. For example, if you block a K-band speed sign and then a police officer sets up with K-band radar at that same location, will it detect it? The marketing reads like it will, but I don't know the reality.
As I understand it, there are 8 bands in that range. The problem comes from the devices that are being blocked. A police radar gun is a very clean device in that it broadcasts on a very specific frequency in order for it to work accurately. The devices that give false alarms are dirty devices. The radar aspect of it isn't being used to determine exactly how fast a car is moving but just that something is in it's way, if you will. Automatic door openers, traffic monitors, backup warning devices etc., are very cheaply made and broadcast a wider spectrum of frequencies. This leads to multiple segments getting blocked in the specific range. Exactly how many I do not know.
Other devices use other ranges like the Ka and even Laser. My Laser goes off at every tool both in Maine that has a camera for the EZPASS lane. Point being there are so many devices now that use these technologies how many can you block before you significantly hamper its effectiveness?
Another issue with the false alarm block has to do with the shear number of blocks. Even some of the newer devices can have the memory overloaded with GPS coordinates. Some were designed not expecting to have to remember thousands of locations. Some are "smart" and can block a false alarm based on how dirty the signal is. This is an even greater problem because now it starts blocking moving vehicles. If you happen to follow someone that has a backup sensor and your GPS radar detector starts adding blocks while following ... you get the picture.
Personally I would like a GPS based Radar detector that compares my speed to the known speed limit and then let me set a threshold for warning. Example, I'm on a highway doing 78 in a 70 and my threshold is set to 10 mph, it wouldn't warn me however once I exceed 80, it would. That would be way more useful in my opinion.
