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Hello, I have ordered 'stay in jacking pucks' and I am wondering what kind of jack stands I can use with them. The stands that I have are 'v' shaped at the area that contacts the vehicle. Thanks
Those are typically jacking/lift points, jack stands would best be placed at the frame cross members. I recommend reading this thread, and its attachements, for placement information: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
Hello, I have ordered 'stay in jacking pucks' and I am wondering what kind of jack stands I can use with them. The stands that I have are 'v' shaped at the area that contacts the vehicle. Thanks
I also use jack stand pads. Google, see them on Amazon, Summit, eBay etc.
So is it better to jack on one side of the car under one jack puck then jack the other side, or jack one of the front/rear locations? Going to be putting my car on stands for the first time in lieu of the upcoming hurricane.
^^^
Hmm, have to be very careful when using 4 jack stands! Not normally recommended but for what you are doing OK if careful.
In my case with two jacks I would jack up the front, install jack stands in the proper GM locations. Then jack up the rear and do the same, being very careful to push the stands in without getting under the car further than needed. In both cases I would lower the jacks slowly.
With only one jack I would set the jack stand at minimum height. Jack up one front side, lower the jack and then lift the other side and do the same.
Realize this will take longer BUT if I wanted to use the highest jack stand amount, I would do what I said first as the lowest jack stand setting, then start all over and lift higher and adjust the jack stand heigher and repeat in all 4 corners.
Can understand you would want it the highest possible. Just check each jack stand before proceeding to the next lift. Reverse the two step procedure when lowering.
Good luck with the storm. Hope after all that work it's not needed.
Frankly if I only had one jack, would feel safer getting two 16" x 8" Concrete Blocks and jacking the rear first and putting the tires on the blocks, then jacking the front in two steps and using jack stands on that end. (Similar to what I do with my light weight home made wood stanchions shown in pic in post#6.)
So is it better to jack on one side of the car under one jack puck then jack the other side, or jack one of the front/rear locations? Going to be putting my car on stands for the first time in lieu of the upcoming hurricane.
When Baton Rouge had its historic rain and flood event in August 2016 I put my C7 up on four jack stands as high as they would go, probably 18". I jacked it on the side frame locations (blue on Jerry's chart) one corner at a time and inserted the stands on the recommended sub-frame lifting points (red). I think that's pretty much JerryU's technique. When you jack it on the side frame that entire side of the car will come up more or less the same height, although you might need to move the jack around to adjust after inserting one jack stand. If you don't have pads for your stands I would use a block of 2x4 or similar to protect the frame.
FWIW, I also have a Harbor Freight cross beam that I've modified to fit the car. I pulled the two end pieces off, which are too wide, and use two 2x4 blocks instead. I also use some homemade ramps to get the front off the ground enough to fit the jack and x-beam into place. Once there I can slip the jack stands to the right and left of the x-beam for extra security, as I don't trust any jack while I'm under the car.
I also have the Harbor Freight jack stand pads. I've used them for years, and surprisingly they've held up well.
Since I have four jack stands I'm going to pick up another set of those pads today or tomorrow. During the flood I used some 2x4 blocks on the second pair of stands. I've been looking for something to buy so I can get a free flashlight and use one of my 20%-off coupons. Be patient, I amuse easily.
When Baton Rouge had its historic rain and flood event in August 2016 I put my C7 up on four jack stands as high as they would go, probably 18". I jacked it on the side frame locations (blue on Jerry's chart) one corner at a time and inserted the stands on the recommended sub-frame lifting points (red). I think that's pretty much JerryU's technique. When you jack it on the side frame that entire side of the car will come up more or less the same height, although you might need to move the jack around to adjust after inserting one jack stand. If you don't have pads for your stands I would use a block of 2x4 or similar to protect the frame.
FWIW, I also have a Harbor Freight cross beam that I've modified to fit the car. I pulled the two end pieces off, which are too wide, and use two 2x4 blocks instead. I also use some homemade ramps to get the front off the ground enough to fit the jack and x-beam into place. Once there I can slip the jack stands to the right and left of the x-beam for extra security, as I don't trust any jack while I'm under the car.
Thanks! I do have jacking pucks if that matters. I also have the harbor frieght jack stands and jack, the extra tall stands tho for when I did my header install on my mustang. Only bad thing about them is their lowest setting is still pretty high so I have to be careful when jacking. Maybe I'll drive up my race ramps to start it.
Thanks! I do have jacking pucks if that matters. I also have the harbor frieght jack stands and jack, the extra tall stands tho for when I did my header install on my mustang. Only bad thing about them is their lowest setting is still pretty high so I have to be careful when jacking. Maybe I'll drive up my race ramps to start it.
I also have stay-in pucks which fit fine in the saddle of the floor hack. I don't ever use the jack stands in that location, but on the sub-frame (red spots on Jerry's chart). If you don't have the pads for the stands I would get some or use something else to avoid metal-on-metal contact. These points are close together and I might worry about that in high winds if your car will be subjected to any. Our rain event was windless and my car was in the garage, so it wasn't an issue.
When I had my 2017 Stingray in for its first oil change recently, the mechanic showed me the "safe" places on the frame where you can lift it with a jack (and thus use jack stands). Apparently, you don't need pucks on THOSE points, but you DO need them on the sides of the car (close to the rocker panels) if you are at a place with a hoist. I would recommend spending $25 and keeping a set of four pucks with your C7 at all times - as you never know when a shop might not have them. {Even the Chevy dealer only had TWO of them - so I am glad I had my bag of four inside my rear hatch.}
I have a 5-ton hydraulic floor jack and TWO jack stands. After I purchase a set of "Race Ramps", I can drive the Corvette up onto them and lift the REAR of the car with the floor jack and set it on the jack stands. This way, my car will be completely level when I change the oil next time - and it will be able to drain perfectly. I'll be able to get under the car on my creeper too.
Just BE CAREFUL to jack the car only on the designated places where it will be strong enough.
Just a reminder to put a wheel chock behind each front tire on the ramp platform so that the car does not roll backwards when you lift the rear off the ground. Once the rear is lifted, if you check the wheel chocks you will find that they are wedged in place and not easily removed.
Originally Posted by JK 23112
...After I purchase a set of "Race Ramps", I can drive the Corvette up onto them and lift the REAR of the car with the floor jack and set it on the jack stands. This way, my car will be completely level when I change the oil next time - and it will be able to drain perfectly. I'll be able to get under the car on my creeper too.
Just BE CAREFUL to jack the car only on the designated places where it will be strong enough.
09-05-2017, 10:18 AM
Jack stands question
Be patient, I amuse easily.
