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I've seen diagrams and awkwardly angled photos before of the alternate jack stand locations, but I'm not totally confident that I've got it right. At first I thought that the area circled in red was the correct location, but after reviewing some other posts here I'm now thinking that the areas circled in blue are the correct locations for the front end. Can someone confirm if I've got it right?
I've seen diagrams and awkwardly angled photos before of the alternate jack stand locations, but I'm not totally confident that I've got it right. At first I thought that the area circled in red was the correct location, but after reviewing some other posts here I'm now thinking that the areas circled in blue are the correct locations for the front end. Can someone confirm if I've got it right?
Well, thank goodness I didn't do any damage then. I used the red spot once, but since I wasn't entirely sure I only partially let the weight down onto the jack stand and left the hydraulic jack supporting some of the weight.
Actually, one other question. Those two areas with the blue circles, especially the one on the back side of the front wheel, are at a slight angle. I'm concerned that the full weight of the car could cause the jack stand to slip out. If the jack stand were positioned to the inside (the left in the photo) of the circle, it would be on a flat part of the cross-member. Ditto if it where positioned to the right of the circle. Thoughts?
This exchange is why I enjoy the forum when it's at its best; clear helpful answer and link, no judgement, just valuable info. Kudos to sTz and all the others who help out when they can...
Yep, but the diagram from that Link that Theta used is my very old one and has an error. Funny made that because someone had jacked on the "black composite spring" and cracked it as I recall! That is a No-No! Pic below is correct. If the OP used the spring support bracket not as bad as the center of the spring but still not correct.
Pic from B&W 2014 Service Manual. Colored for clarity. Note it is not to scale so dimensions shown are measurements I made to the ~center of the GM specified areas. There is a tolerance, use logic.
OK, now that I got that out. You can put stands on the control arm attachment points, or the side skirts jacking puck locations.
The picture Jerry posted is mostly right, it's a bit outdated because you CAN use a jack (to lift the car) in the center of any of the 4 cross members (2 front, 2 back, your picture shows the front two).
OK, now that I got that out. You can put stands on the control arm attachment points, or the side skirts jacking puck locations.
The picture Jerry posted is mostly right, it's a bit outdated because you CAN use a jack (to lift the car) in the center of any of the 4 cross members (2 front, 2 back, your picture shows the front two).
Yep if you know what your doing the control arm attachment points can be used but not listed by GM in the Owner's or Service manual.
The pic below is from the 2017 Owner's Manual. Still shows the same areas to lift. Only cross member shown that can be lifted in the center is the second one from the front, as it has been. Just hard to reach. Assume because of it's location it is made from thicker material. You can put your finger in some of the hollow casting holes and see that it is thin.
The cross members are still "hollow aluminum castings" that was the GM statement as the reason not to lift in the center. So until I see a pic from the latest Service Manual or a statement from GM saying it is OK, I'll continue not to do it!
I know some folks do, and that is fine, their car. But a small crack that could form will grow each time it's stressed!
Pic from 2017 Owner's Manual not great but shows the same marked areas as points to lift.