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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 10:37 PM
  #21  
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Went today to get the panels installed, now they tell me I need a whole new driver's door because the fiberglass is cracking on the inside.
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by onyx_z71
There is a TSB to add an adhesive inside the door. I think the adhesive goes between the impact bar and the inside of the door skin. It's a simple fix and a far better choice than replacing the door shell.
I took my '15 in for this exact reason and this was the fix. The dealer's tech opened the door panel and said the problem was obvious and an easy fix. Don't let them BS you.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 03:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Eff A Ford
Went today to get the panels installed, now they tell me I need a whole new driver's door because the fiberglass is cracking on the inside.
Did they get you all taken care of??
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 01:35 PM
  #24  
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They told me GM did not approve to replace the whole door and that it was a riv-nut that was broken. I bet the dealer broke it while doing the TSB but of course they did not admit fault. I e-mailed the service manager but he didn't do much.

They sent my car to a bodyshop to have the riv-nut repaired. Got it back. Same amount of rattle that I had when I first took it in, but not as much as right after the TSB was performed.

So I bite down and take it to a car audio shop and have dynomat installed for about $200. After the dynomat, the kick drums sound more solid and the bass less distorted. Rattle almost non-existent. The audio shop tells me whoever has been working inside my door panels did sloppy work because it was all scratched up on the inside. I'll never take my car back to that dealer.

Fast forward a few weeks and it sounds like the rattle came back a little. Maybe the audioshop didn't do a good job. Or maybe I need more dynomat. I might take it to a different audio shop and have them see what's wrong one day.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 01:55 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Eff A Ford
They told me GM did not approve to replace the whole door and that it was a riv-nut that was broken. I bet the dealer broke it while doing the TSB but of course they did not admit fault. I e-mailed the service manager but he didn't do much.

They sent my car to a bodyshop to have the riv-nut repaired. Got it back. Same amount of rattle that I had when I first took it in, but not as much as right after the TSB was performed.

So I bite down and take it to a car audio shop and have dynomat installed for about $200. After the dynomat, the kick drums sound more solid and the bass less distorted. Rattle almost non-existent. The audio shop tells me whoever has been working inside my door panels did sloppy work because it was all scratched up on the inside. I'll never take my car back to that dealer.

Fast forward a few weeks and it sounds like the rattle came back a little. Maybe the audioshop didn't do a good job. Or maybe I need more dynomat. I might take it to a different audio shop and have them see what's wrong one day.
I know it's frustrating but how about just turning the volume down?
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pbergmann
I know it's frustrating but how about just turning the volume down?
That's not acceptable. I should be able to enjoy my music without an annoying rattle.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #27  
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Rattle = something loose. Surely you can track down the exact source for this. I can tell you it would drive me nuts until I found it myself. THEN I'd fix it and let the dealership hear about it. No, they won't care, but I'd feel better letting them know a hack with a fistful of hand tools is a better than what they have to offer.
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