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I have read some install side skirts using rivets, others use double sided tape while others used screws.
I'm interested in getting RPI Design side skirts and they provide 12 screws per side. So I'm interested in hearing from those who have used screws to install side skirts. Did you encounter any problems? How have they held up?
I got mine skirts from C7 Carbon. There were 5 screw holes predrilled to use factory screws....3 front and 2 back. They also sent a bag full of screws but I elected to use 1/2" double sided tape between screws instead of drilling holes. Worked great..no problems. I just didn't want a bunch of holes just in case I removed the skirts at a future date. Also I didn't jack up the car..had no reason to. I could get to all screws with a short socket wench.
Last edited by 2000 Vette Guy; Nov 28, 2017 at 12:21 PM.
Personally I would use pop rivets over screws. If you’re going to make holes with screws, the pop rivets would be more secure. I’ve read about lots of people using the factory screws and tape, I think you’d be fine going that way too.
I agree, use pop rivets, that's how i attached ACS rockers to my '15 Z51. It was easy and they held up well. The factory rockers on my '17 GS seem more flimsy than the ACS rockers i put on the 15, if that gives you any idea on how secure they are.
Since we are on the subject, what is the best tool for installing pop rivets? I figure that is a ridiculously elementary tool question for some of you, but never had to deal with them before. I'm going to be installing a Stage Two splitter soon, and I need to figure out the rivets.
Since we are on the subject, what is the best tool for installing pop rivets? I figure that is a ridiculously elementary tool question for some of you, but never had to deal with them before. I'm going to be installing a Stage Two splitter soon, and I need to figure out the rivets.
Would an answer on this well with ACS skirts. Additionally, with pop rivets, is drilling holes that are not already drilled from GM required?
Since we are on the subject, what is the best tool for installing pop rivets? I figure that is a ridiculously elementary tool question for some of you, but never had to deal with them before. I'm going to be installing a Stage Two splitter soon, and I need to figure out the rivets.
Originally Posted by brodaiga
Would an answer on this well with ACS skirts. Additionally, with pop rivets, is drilling holes that are not already drilled from GM required?
yes, drill pilot holes, also easy.
and the tool is a pop rivet tool. Just google it, and then search on youtube for how to use it, it's incredibly easy.
I spent $150 at harbor freight on a compressor and a few air tools, one of them being a rivet gun. It’s pretty handy having a small compressor too, I like being able to check tires and fill at home, plus I got a little nail gun for some carpentry projects.
If you have a Automatic Tranny the lines run in the rocker panel on the drivers side.Drill as shallow as you can.If using rivets?
I added stainless steal fender washers for more holding area.The rivet heads are a small diameter.
Start at the rear tire then move toward front.Depending on your choice of manufacture.If not matched properly toward rear it won't look right.The front is not as noticeable being short or long.
Unless your installing 3/4 length Stage 1 Style obviously start at the front.
The screws i used i added Silicon Adhesive to the treads.Figured it would act as a locktite so the screws don't loosen up.Lightly applied,not flooded
I'll add this quickie. I put mine on alone using strong spring loaded clamps. "I got lucky" & they are perfect front to rear & even/flush at the top. You really must use 2 people for this to eliminate the sag in these as you rivet/screw/tape (whatever method) because you must start at one end & work your way down. If you figure hell, I'll just attach both ends to hold it in place, then you have a sag in middle that will bow. An aside, as one poster pointed out if you have the A8 you must correctly limit how deep the bit goes to keep from damaging lines. JMHO
Unless your installing 3/4 length Stage 1 Style obviously start at the front.
I went from 3/4 to full and mistakenly started from the front screw. One side was perfect, the other I found the skirt was too far forward and it didn't line up to my liking. I drilled out all my new rivots and pulled it back as far as I could without drilling all new holes.
My opinion, is make sure the back lines up first. The front can be off just slightly and you wouldn't even notice.
I used standard rivots and a nice little galvanized neoprene padded washer I found at Lowes.
If I had to do it again, I would use a tri-rivot like the factory does.
I'll add this quickie. I put mine on alone using strong spring loaded clamps. "I got lucky" & they are perfect front to rear & even/flush at the top. You really must use 2 people for this to eliminate the sag in these as you rivet/screw/tape (whatever method) because you must start at one end & work your way down. If you figure hell, I'll just attach both ends to hold it in place, then you have a sag in middle that will bow. An aside, as one poster pointed out if you have the A8 you must correctly limit how deep the bit goes to keep from damaging lines. JMHO
Good video on the subject that I found on YouTube...
Mike
EXCELLENT Video. Really helps.
I did not realize if screws or rivets were used to attach the side skirts holes would have to be drilled in the rocker panels which means if side skirts were removed the holes would need to be filled and the bottom side of the rockers would need to be repainted so I see why double back tape would be better. In fact the installation method used by the guy in the video may be the preferred method.
One other point, I had my rocker panels covered with clear bra material so if I use double back tape along the bottom I think I would need to have it removed along that attachment line.
I used rivets for my 2014 as there is little room behind the plastic rocker panel and you don't want to screw into the aluminum frame! Brushed against them when getting out! Glad I used rivets!
I opted for the Stage 2 aero package with my Grand Sport. Watched as C7 Tech at the dealer installed the full length side skirts. He drilled 13 holes/side and used special GM rivets. They have a special large shoulder to spread the load on the skirt. When I used rivets I used small stainless fender washer to accomplish the same!
I just bought the rocker panel side skirt and I see that it has holes in them already but they’re on the side angle looks like I would have to drill the side angle of the car to put rivets or screws and I’m puzzled the manual is saying to add rivets but they send me screws. How is it possible to put screws on the sides where I was expecting them to mount them using factory screws from the bottom but the panel doesn’t reach down there. I added my front splitter and it was by using the factory screws from the bottom. Ur.i need feedback on this many thanks ,
QUOTE=2000 Vette Guy;1596061475]I got mine skirts from C7 Carbon. There were 5 screw holes predrilled to use factory screws....3 front and 2 back. They also sent a bag full of screws but I elected to use 1/2" double sided tape between screws instead of drilling holes. Worked great..no problems. I just didn't want a bunch of holes just in case I removed the skirts at a future date. Also I didn't jack up the car..had no reason to. I could get to all screws with a short socket wench.[/QUOTE]
I just got my skirt and the manual says to use Rivets but the package came with screws. I'm the same I don't want to drill holes in the car but whether you use screws or rivets you still have to drill regardless. I'm surprise using double side tape and that's it... I don't think that will hold for a long time due to wear and tear with the tape from the weather no? Maybe I'm wrong let me know how long have you had this on.
Thanks,
Juan