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The left headlamp on my C7 is now intermittent. (Comes on at start, goes out after a few minutes, comes back on when I stop the car and exit.) It does not seem to be vibration sensitive. Apparently you cannot access the LED without removing the entire front nose, and the entire headlamp assembly. I can't find any service bulletin on this. I am guessing a ballast issue, or possibly a relay. Anyone else with a similar problem/ideas/suggestions?
There is no LED. The lamp is a high energy discharge xenon lamp. It requires several hundred volts to start, then reducing somewhat to maintain illumination.
As for your problem, I fear you will need to replace the whole assembly including the ballast.
Incidentally, many may not realize there is no low beam lamp, despite a fuse marked as such. The same (high beam) lamp is for both, and the "low beam" fuse powers a shutter to cover the upper pattern.
I've heard it is a decent job to get at and those modules aren't cheap either. If you're under warranty, I'd certainly let the dealer deal with it. If you can, get some video of what is going on so you have some evidence to take to them if it is indeed intermittent.
There is no LED. The lamp is a high energy discharge xenon lamp. It requires several hundred volts to start, then reducing somewhat to maintain illumination.
As for your problem, I fear you will need to replace the whole assembly including the ballast.
Incidentally, many may not realize there is no low beam lamp, despite a fuse marked as such. The same (high beam) lamp is for both, and the "low beam" fuse powers a shutter to cover the upper pattern.
There is no LED. The lamp is a high energy discharge xenon lamp. It requires several hundred volts to start, then reducing somewhat to maintain illumination.
As for your problem, I fear you will need to replace the whole assembly including the ballast.
Incidentally, many may not realize there is no low beam lamp, despite a fuse marked as such. The same (high beam) lamp is for both, and the "low beam" fuse powers a shutter to cover the upper pattern.
Dave
And that's a pretty crappy design. I want MOAR bulbs to light up when I hit the high beams.
And that's a pretty crappy design. I want MOAR bulbs to light up when I hit the high beams.
Isn't he saying when we go "Low Beam" the shutter covers part of the "High Beam", meaning high beams are full bright, only low beam has reduced lite-but I could be trying too hard to read his post.
Isn't he saying when we go "Low Beam" the shutter covers part of the "High Beam", meaning high beams are full bright, only low beam has reduced lite-but I could be trying too hard to read his post.
Yes, the drawback to that is if the high beam bulb goes out (or ballast) you have no headlight at all, if you had separate low and high beam bulbs if the high beam quits you still have the low beam.
If the shutter breaks for whatever reason you are replacing the entire housing and not just a bulb or ballast.
I like the old technology better-screw the old one out and screw the new $14.99 bulb in and make sure the beam is focused correctly against your garage door.
Sounds like a lot of money is going to leave your wallet to have a light go out in an out of warranty C7.
What ended up being the cause? I have a 15 Z51 and my girl has a 14 that just started doing the same thing and CPO warranty ran out on hers 3k miles ago. I know they had a problem on C6's with connection to assembly becoming corroded and overheating.
Sounds like the ballast is OK, and that the HID bulb needs to be replaced. The bulb costs $69 to about $100, depends where you buy it. Make sure you buy a genuine top-tier brand bulb : Philips, Sylvania, Osram, rather than a cheaper Chinese knock-off. You need a D3S bulb. Changing the bulb itself takes about 3 minutes, but GM forgot to provide easy access to the back of the headlight housing....the front bumper cover needs to be removed to get access. Don't touch the bulb glass with bare fingers, the oils on your skin can shorten the life of the bulb.
If the ballast is bad, that is also easily replaced, once you get access to the back of the headlight housing. A new ballast is probably $400 from GM, but a good used one can be found on Ebay for $100.
If the high/low beam shutter breaks, the entire housing needs to be replaced, which is probably $1500 new from GM.
Last edited by ersatz928; Apr 11, 2018 at 08:54 AM.
What ended up being the cause? I have a 15 Z51 and my girl has a 14 that just started doing the same thing and CPO warranty ran out on hers 3k miles ago. I know they had a problem on C6's with connection to assembly becoming corroded and overheating.
I thought the problem might be a relay, particularly since the light always comes on when starting, and always comes back on with the exit lights. Replacing the high voltage relay in the underhood fuse panel did not solve the problem. I located a service bulletin (TSB#14-08-42-001; Exterior Lighting Service Bulletin 368254) indicating that loose connectors were an issue in some 2014 models. The problem is that you have to remove the entire front bumper to get access to the headlight assembly and the connectors. My next step is probably to try a dealer diagnostic (at $177).
I like the old technology better-screw the old one out and screw the new $14.99 bulb in and make sure the beam is focused correctly against your garage door.
That worked for my 1957 Ford Fairlane. $4.98 at Schuck's. Alas, modern headlights are ex=pen-sive. Not only are they hard to get to, but the parts, like the "igniter" are outrageous. It's gonna be well over a grand. Been there. Done that. Sucks.
Last edited by mschuyler; Apr 11, 2018 at 12:15 PM.