Rust inside engine bay
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 34,842
Likes: 12,285
From: NE South Carolina
Assume a brown color like shown in Post #14 but not a flaky “Rust,” as seen on the LT1?
Should have mentioned, IF the LT1 manifold has rust flakes they should be removed with a wire brush. Rust Reformer works best on a tight adhering iron oxide (rust by any other name is still rust.)
Remember it is not a paint, it can not peel. It chemically changes the iron oxide. It should be put on very lightly. Use several coats, best waiting ~30 minutes or so between coats. A forum member sent me a pic where he applied it very heavy and the none rust areas had some residual. I’ve use the product a number of times and never experienced it doing anything to none rusted areas. BUT I never applied a heavy layer.
Would appreciate if someone trys on their exhaust manifold, say in three light coats perhaps one hour apart without running the engine. If it works, I’ll by a fresh container! My Muffler welds still look good.
Should have mentioned, IF the LT1 manifold has rust flakes they should be removed with a wire brush. Rust Reformer works best on a tight adhering iron oxide (rust by any other name is still rust.)
Remember it is not a paint, it can not peel. It chemically changes the iron oxide. It should be put on very lightly. Use several coats, best waiting ~30 minutes or so between coats. A forum member sent me a pic where he applied it very heavy and the none rust areas had some residual. I’ve use the product a number of times and never experienced it doing anything to none rusted areas. BUT I never applied a heavy layer.
Would appreciate if someone trys on their exhaust manifold, say in three light coats perhaps one hour apart without running the engine. If it works, I’ll by a fresh container! My Muffler welds still look good.
Last edited by JerryU; Feb 28, 2018 at 04:56 PM.
