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Thanks.........Its still good but getting old......(Kinda like my girlfriend).......Guess I need to replace them both ��
This is what the local store show will fit my car.....Probably go with the Duralast AGM OR the Odyssey AGM
An AGM battery is a lead acid battery. Just different format for the internals. AGMs need a step charging function. Not sure the car’s voltage regulator provides this. When putting in AGM, must ensure there’s a step charger to maintain it. If not, life is shortened. Only reason to put AGM is if you need deep cycle capability (like operating DC equipment for hours with engine off).
Not to savvy on Batteries,my charger shows 3 modes,Standard,AGM,and Gel Cell.....Which one for battery in C7???
Thanks
Originally Posted by Submerge
An AGM battery is a lead acid battery. Just different format for the internals. AGMs need a step charging function. Not sure the car’s voltage regulator provides this. When putting in AGM, must ensure there’s a step charger to maintain it. If not, life is shortened. Only reason to put AGM is if you need deep cycle capability (like operating DC equipment for hours with engine off).
The Diehard AGM I bought for my 2014 C7 worked fine. Paid <$150 on sale and it had 760 CCA (cold cracking amp rating) versus the OEM 565! Charged just fine in the car and with my equivalent to the Chevy Charger. That same battery sold under their names was available at Advanced Auto and Auto Zone in town. The Diehard was on sale.
The Yellow Top Optima (also an AGM) in my street rod charged fine with the standard alternator I installed in it and the Schumacher battery charger that is connected all the time as it mostly just goes to car shows. In fact just replaced that 10 year old Yellow Top NOT because it wasn't working but the street rod has electric doors and the battery is inside the sedan. If it was at a car show and died would be a PIA to get into it to jump or replace!
I'd only buy a AGM (absorbed glass matt) battery. Had an Optima AGM in my C6 Vette as a replacement and it worked fine BUT the top configuration won't fit a C7.
The wife's new BMW X5 SUV has two batteries. One is a large AGM. It uses a form of braking energy recovery by only operating the car alternator when coasting or braking.
Anybody have a dealer replace the battery with a new factory C7 battery. If so, how much did it cost?
One word of caution for those folks who have not uncovered the battery. If you have not pulled the carpet up to view the battery, suggest you do so before bringing it to the dealer. Several posts early in the battery charge time where the dealer tech ripped the carpet! The section under the right rear plastic wheel well cover is not bound. Easy to rip getting it out. I remove the bottom rear clip on the cover that makes it easy. Some have said just be very careful.
If the battery fails and you call AAA, that tech will surely rip the carpet getting to the battery!
Before anyone tries suggest you pull out the carpet and leave it out prior to them touching the car. Unless a ripped carpet is not a concern!
One word of caution for those folks who have not uncovered the battery. If you have not pulled the carpet up to view the battery, suggest you do so before bringing it to the dealer. Several posts early in the battery charge time where the dealer tech ripped the carpet! The section under the right rear plastic wheel well cover is not bound. Easy to rip getting it out. I remove the bottom rear clip on the cover that makes it easy. Some have said just be very careful.
If the battery fails and you call AAA, that tech will surely rip the carpet getting to the battery!
Before anyone tries suggest you pull out the carpet and leave it out prior to them touching the car. Unless a ripped carpet is not a concern!
Welcome. Here is a pic of the clip location. Only need to remove the rear back one. It's ~3 inches up from the floor. It can be done with your fingers but a trim tool or even a screwdriver will work as the tip would be inside. Takes little force. The clip is NOT like most of the trim clips that are very strong. It is easy to put back with the side of a closed fist.
Note the carpet is not bound under the plastic wheel cover. The piece of wood was used to take the pic but you can pull it out about as shown with one hand while the other pulls the carpet out. Also be careful not to fold the carpet back too tightly as it's cheap and will crease! The Owner's Manual and the Service Manual say nothing about pulling the plastic wheel well cover out BUT it is a big help!
Anybody have a dealer replace the battery with a new factory C7 battery. If so, how much did it cost?
I did. My local dealer changed out my battery with an original AC Delco one. If I recall it was right around $190 for parts and labor. I was going to do it myself, but when I accessed the battery and saw that board mounted on top of the battery, I said to myself, 'Hell No". I'm not risking shorting that bad boy out. So the $45 or so for the labor cost was well worth it to me.
Once you access the battery it's not hard. Like any battery change just disconnect the ground terminal 1st. In fact the C7 has a nice clamp. No risk touching anything once the ground is disconnected. A few tricks like getting the power board off, all covered in my pic/text change in my 2014 Z51: http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf
My AGM replacement cost < $150 and has 35% more cold cracking amps (CCA) than the OEM.
Unless you charge the AGM battery with the correct type of charger it’s an effort in futility. AGM batteries require “step charging” for their maintenance. Many of the little plug in chargers now use this. I doubt the C7 voltage regulator has a step charging profile but I could be wrong. The stock battery has 600+ CCA. More than adequate.
Cranking batteries have thinner plates designed to provide high currents for short times (starting). Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates for longer draw times with moderate amperage. Usually to get the same number CCA in a deep cycle battery, the battery will be larger (and more expensive).
In the marine world have seem many upgrade to AGM only to have their batteries last haff as long because they using old charging technology. Just look up “proper charging for battery type”, and read away.
The Optima Yellow Top (AGM) I had as replacement for over 4 years in my C6 worked fine! Got a Yellow Top because the Vette was yellow! The AGM in my 2014 C7 read a higher voltage than the OEM battery and the C7 charged it fine. I seldom used my Chevy equivalent CTEK charger but when I did it read full charged in a day or so.
The inexpensive Schumacher charger (compared to the Chevy charger) that says it's fine for standard lead acid and AGM batteries I have on my Street Rod keeps the Optima AGM charged fine and the last one was 10 years old when I changed. The 8 year old Schumacher is NOT a stepped charger. It does have a maintenance level once the battery voltage reaches the correct level.. In fact took it to a Show Saturday (the old girl won a trophy) and just reconnected yesterday. It showed the yellow light (charging) for almost 24 hours now it's green- fully charged.
Perhaps you're referring to $10 cheap chargers or old charges (but my Schumacher charger is ~8 years old and is attached to my ProStreet Rod 24/7 unless it is going to a Car Show.) Also trying to fast charge a low AGM battery could be an issue but not charging with a small maintenance charger or the cars alternator.
Many posts of AGM's working fine in Vettes!
PS: This is from the Optima Website. Provided the link. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2016/12/do-i-need-special-charger-agm-batteryTips & Support DO I NEED A SPECIAL CHARGER FOR AN AGM BATTERY? Do AGM batteries like OPTIMA batteries need special chargers? No. Do AGM batteries, including OPTIMA Batteries need special chargers? No. While a high-quality battery charger, like the OPTIMA Digital 1200 or Digital 400 can improve battery performance and lifespan, most battery chargers and maintainers work just fine on OPTIMA Batteries and other AGM batteries.
Optima is selling AGM batteries. Of course they will say special charger not needed :-). And the ONLY chargers that are truly AGM compatible will be step chargers. They use bulk charge, then absorption charge, and finally a float charge. In bulk they use constant high current until the voltage gets to a certain high point. Then they may that voltage while decreasing current in absorption. Maintenance is like a trickle charge (better chargers turn off when maint voltage reached so as not to overcharge the battery.
Most people don’t expect car batteries to last more than a few years. So when they die from improper charging early (like in a few years), people just accept replacement. If you truly need deep cycle power, AGM or Gel batteries are a great way to go. At some point all the batteries will be Lithium, which has it’s own specific charging and cell maintence requirements. It would just be yet “another electronic module” on the C7. :-)
^^^
Optima also sells chargers! Perhaps the Optima Yellow Top in my Street Rod lasted 10 years because it is connected 24/7 to my Schumacher ~$40 ~8 year old charger that seldom does anything other than operate in maintenance mode. I actually replaced the charger ~8 years ago because the green "charged light" was on when it wasn't actually operating!
The inexpensive Schumacher charger (compared to the Chevy charger) that says it's fine for standard lead acid and AGM batteries I have on my Street Rod keeps the Optima AGM charged fine and the last one was 10 years old when I changed. The 8 year old Schumacher is NOT a stepped charger.
I have a similar experience. I've maintained motorcycle AGM batteries for 11 years using an ancient (13-YO) Deltran Battery Tender Plus that AFAIK does not have a stepped feature. I've had no trouble with those batteries keeping them on the BT+ at all times when not being ridden. I recently switched to a BT Junior for the bike while the old BT+ now maintains my truck battery (std. lead-acid). The current battery in the bike is 4-YO and is still cranking.
After having some strange problems in my 2014, I took the car to "The Corvette Mechanic" in Middletown Ct. He noticed the AGM battery in the car and said that IS NOT the right battery for the car. A # 48 class lead acid battery is the only correct battery for that car. He said the car will not charge the AGM battery correctly and can mess with the values in the BCM. I had noticed some HIGH charging readings since putting the AGM in and will be looking to change the AGM out. Although the car seemed to run ok, when he was looking for certain values from the BCM he was not finding the correct values anymore.
