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Hey guys, my custom steering wheel from Auto Dynamics West just got delivered, and I'm BEYOND excited for it. Huge shout out to Greg for the stellar work. So tonight I set about getting started (car is stored for the winter, so no rush). Everything started off fine, removed the airbag easily, disconnected wires, but something just isn't right with the bolt! I could not get it to budge with a 1/2" ratchet. My battery operated 1/2" impact wouldn't budge it either. Finally I broke out my pneumatic 1/2" impact that I save for 'special occasions'. I applied some gentle heat with a small torch type butane lighter (wanted to try to warm it up a little, but not add too much heat due to where its located) and it FINALLY started to back out, a tiny bit at a time. The bolt would turn like maybe a quarter turn, then stop, then a little more and stop. I tried putting some penetrating oil in it, but then my t50 bit sheared off. At this point I had to give up for the night, mostly because I don't have another t50 so I have to make a trip tomorrow to get one. I feel like the bolt may be galled or something, but at this point, I HAVE to get it out. For what its worth, the car is a 2019, I bought it brand new from the dealer, so I know it hasn't been messed with before. Is something up here or is this bolt really this much of a pain?
Worst case scenario and the female threads are totally screwed up somehow........would I need a new steering column?....gulp!
It can be a 2 man job.
Turn wheel all the way to the left to lock so when using leverage it's already to the stop
Use the 1/2" breaker bar with a helper and persuader while you push the t50 into the bolt and keep it straight
It's the lock tite from factory.
And when installing new clean all threads out and reapply loctite. Without it you ca bottom the bolt out by hand. It's pretty crazy.
I made some videos of mine. Look for the ones titled steering wheel. Theres also gear shift replacement which was easy but a nightmare at same time lol.
Now.. on a side note. For the other one I removed I needed an induction gun that uses a soldering iron type end which super heats metal quickly made for stubborn or rusted bolts. It was because I used an impact and it started to twist the threads on the bolt. It was all due to that loctite.
You could probably rent one or borrow one from someone if it came down to it. But I think the persuader and a helper will make it happen.
Been there tried that ....on third C7.replaced last 2 tried but ended up going to a dealer......not sure what the tourque is at the factory but can tel you it is excessive...
I heat mine up a little first and it makes it much easier. After doing this many times on C7's and Camaro's, I will tell you that doing it on a cold day will suck. Get a heat gun and heat it up, then as said above lock the wheel and go to town.
Get a real good quality torx bit too. If your bolt is damaged PM me and I will send you another (have a couple new ones).
Did this myself and I'm no big guy. Gave up my first day doing it. The torx head was starting to strip. Luckily the car was in storage. Then I got serious and whipped out the torch. I surrounded around the bolt with tinfoil as seen done by a member on this forum. Only took like 5 seconds of heating with a chunky flame and then wrenched it with the breaker bar. Eureka!
Good luck!
Can be a bear to remove as a result of the loctite and how it's installed at the factory. Be sure to get a good quality T50 bit (Snap On) as you definitely don't want to risk stripping out your bolt head.
Welp, broke a 2nd t50 bit, but after heating the bolt, got it about halfway out.......then the torx portion of the bolt fully stripped out. I currently have a bolt that has a perfectly rounded center. I tried hammering a socket over the bolt, but didn't want to hammer too hard. I'm thinking at this point my only option is to drill off the head of the bolt, remove the wheel, then try to grab the stud with a monkey wrench or something and get it out? I'm done for the day, will gather options before the next step.....ugh.
And when installing new clean all threads out and reapply Loctite.
Have had two incidents with my Grand Sport that make me think GM is getting their Thread locking compound from a low priced supplier!
1st experience was my side oil drain drain plug. Changed the oil at 500 miles and assembled the tools I used on the 2014 Z51. A 6 point 15 mm socket, long extension and my 1/2 inch drive ratchet. However the Grand Sport engine oil cooler is longer than the Z51 and blocks the use of the long extension, socket and ratchet. No room to put the socket and wrench between the cooler and the drain plug.
Tried my 12 point box wrench but it was rounding the relatively cheap OEM hex on the plug. Had a 15 mm flare 6 sided wrench but it was also rounding the cheap OEM drain plug hex! Finally put the 6 point socket on the hex and improvised a way to grab the socket on it's side with a pipe wrench and broke the plug threads lose! It had a brown appearing locking compound of some type! (Suggest buying a 15 mm 6 sided box wrench! I replaced the plugs with quality magnetic ones so don't have to deal with the cheap OEM plugs. In addition I have never used Loctite on drain plugs, just tighten properly.) Also of interest, found the front drain plug came off with very little force. IMO far to little and not near the torque spec! GO FIGURE.
2nd experience was my shift ****. Had no issue removing the OEM **** from my 2014 so didn't think much about it when I tried on the Grand Sport. However using the same tool (a small 1/4 inch ratchet pressing hard) it would not budge. Had a soldering iron but probably didn't leave it on the bolt head long enough. Used a compound that improves friction between wrench and blot by 8 fold according to the label. It's useful on a warn Philips screw etc. But though I would not have to put as much push force on the small Torx bit. It worked, got about a 30 degree turn and thought I broke the threads lose. But no, I sheared the head from the bolt! GM used more than the equivalent to Blue Loctite IMO. A PIA to drill out that small bolt!, but did it!
Have had two incidents with my Grand Sport that make me think GM is getting their Thread locking compound from a low priced supplier!
I agree Jerry, I've done a few steering wheels on '14's with near no issue, but the 18's and 19's feel like the went red thread lock (even tho it's blue colored haha). The newer ones are certainly glued on well!
Welp, broke a 2nd t50 bit, but after heating the bolt, got it about halfway out.......then the torx portion of the bolt fully stripped out. I currently have a bolt that has a perfectly rounded center. I tried hammering a socket over the bolt, but didn't want to hammer too hard. I'm thinking at this point my only option is to drill off the head of the bolt, remove the wheel, then try to grab the stud with a monkey wrench or something and get it out? I'm done for the day, will gather options before the next step.....ugh.
Like I started in an earlier post, you've got to have a high quality T50 torx bit such as a Snap On for this job as there's a LOT of junk tools out there.
Another F'N NIGHTMARE.How the Hell can a flat rate mechanic make a living.Another reason you PAY at the dealer.The design and assembly are so problematic you can't touch the new ****!
I agree Jerry, I've done a few steering wheels on '14's with near no issue, but the 18's and 19's feel like the went red thread lock (even tho it's blue colored haha). The newer ones are certainly glued on well!
Yep, that is what happens when you go with a low cost supplier! Especially if they are from China!
But as I said the locking material on that pad plug was brown! GM probably bought blue and it tuned brown! Also operated like Red Loctite!
SIDE BAR:
Just writing to a company in Europe today about the use of a Thermoelectric cooling module including properly mated to the heat sinks with fans. Talked to a fellow at a US company, very helpful. For the small Wattage one needed that company wanted $310. Checked Alibaba just to see what the China price was. Same Wattage, two fans on heat sinks, < $50! Scary!
A little valve lapping compound on the torx bit will help prevent it from slipping out. Of course anyone with lapping compound in their tool box probably already knew this. Furthermore, this seems like a job for an impact driver and hammer.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Feb 18, 2019 at 09:44 PM.
Quick update; Ordered a new bolt, a tap and die (clean out the hold, remove the OEM thread locker from the new bolt), and drilled the head off the old bolt to remove the wheel. I've got 2 options that I can think of to remove the remainder of the bolt; heat it up with a small torch, clamp a vice grip on it, and hopefully it'll move now that I can apply some more direct heat. 2nd options, suggested by my dad, would be to drill a hole through the bolt, almost like I was going to use an extractor, but instead reverse tap it, run a right-hand threaded bolt down into it, then heat it up and use that bolt to remove it. I think I'm going to try the vice grip solution first, since I have everything on-hand, and we'll go from there.
Since you are going to use a new bolt, how about a pipe wrench and a 2' piece of pipe on the end for leverage?
I have an easy out set that is pretty large and it might be what you could also use. It has reversed spiral threads that wedge in and as you turn it and the threads bite inside the stripped torx hole for left turn "Counter clockwise" movement.
Didn't want to leave everyone hanging....but little to no progress yet. Haven't really had time to play with it, but will be attacking this weekend. I did try heating it up a bit with my butane torch last night and going at it with the vice grips, to no avail. I don't think I was able to get enough heat into it. I figure I'll get some pb blaster into the threads, maybe that'll help dissolve some of the thread locker, then I'll make a makeshift heat shield with aluminum foil and a plumbing soldering blanket, and hit it with my mapp torch. Update to follow.
After reading many posts on how difficult it was to "break" this loose, I did the following and it worked the first time with ease:
1. Buy the best quality T50 bit you can find...THIS IT WORTH IT!
2. Turn the steering wheel to full left lock
3. Follow all the appropriate airbag disconnect safety directions.
4. Get a 3' "Breaker" bar attached to the end of your ratchet
5. Apply slow even pressure and the locktite will release as designed.
Best of luck
Steering wheel bolt
