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[QUOTE=JerryU;1599100079]Easy! Thee jack MUST move into the car to keep the jack saddle under the jack puck. The shorter the jack arm the more it must move in for a given lift height. Had my short arm jack slip off the puck- like the OP! Bought a long arm jack, which as noted for the same max lift of the short jack, which required it to move in 2.6 inches, it only needs to move in 1.2 inches. (Note that is for the same lift NOT the max lift on the large jack.)
However that is a very heavy jack and it did not move it "at all" on my vinyl tiled floor or my concrete driveway where I often change oil. The jack saddle is also very shallow (to get the wide range of lift.) I welded on a steel rim to the saddle so it can help keep the saddle on the jack pad!
Note my method of jacking to change oil. Made those ~10 pound stanchions from a 2X6 and some plywood for ~$10. [/QUO
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2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist (C8) - Modified
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist (C6) - Modified
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DITTO! Same thing happen to me in being complacent with the jacking puck. It was not fully engaged in frame, and slipped resulting in the same damage! Richie collision fixed mine also! He was able to save/repair the side skirt saving $$$. I went a bought a quick jack 5000 after my mishap!
Originally Posted by Rickmd
Had the exact same thing happen. I have jack up my c5/c6/c7 many many times! It happened the first time using the hard plastic type pucks. Can't say for certain that they contributed to the jack slipping off the puck but I have my suspicions. The C7 had been up for more than a day and I wasn't home when it slipped off. I am still using these pucks but I am now very carefull when positioning the jacks.
I took the car to Richie collision. They repaired the fender, side skirt and replaced the lower rocker panel for $700. You cannot tell it very happened and I am **** about these types of thing. I will cost you but your baby will be good as new.
These pucks have a very small surface contact because they are not flat and this reduces the amount of friction between Jack pad and jacking puck. During jacking up of the car this reduced friction may cause the Jack to slip rather than making the Jack roll. Combine this slipping and the dumbass round bottom of the puck and rather than the puck catching on the lip of the Jack pad it very nicely climbs over the lip and the car falls off the Jack.
All I can say is, maybe you had a different puck. Here's a front and rear one installed. Looks pretty flat to me. And I'll guarantee that that there's more friction from that puck than any of the round metal ones that you can't leave installed. BMW has been using this configuration for the last 20 years that I know of and probably longer. Like I said earlier, looks to me like you're trying to blame equipment rather than an operator error.
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; Mar 24, 2019 at 05:28 PM.
All I can say is, maybe you had a different puck. Here's a front and rear one installed. Looks pretty flat to me. And I'll guarantee that that there's more friction from that puck than any of the round metal ones that you can't leave installed. BMW has been using this configuration for the last 20 years that I know of and probably longer. Like I said earlier, looks to me like you're trying to blame equipment rather than an operator error.
Same pucks. I'm not telling you what to use. It's your car and if you're happy with them that's all that matters. I wish I never bought them and I did send them back for a full refund. I now have speed ramps and aluminum jacking pucks that I wil only use when needed.
However if anyone ever asks me about jacking pucks I will make it a point to stay far away from those plastic pieces of crap because they just aren't worth the risk.
operator error my ***! I have been working on cars , trucks motorcycles, and many other vehicles since I was a kid. I was a builder of homes and can pretty much do anything mechanical. I'm no white collar worker who pays to have things done. I trusted the design of these pucks and now after what happened I can't believe I didn't notice how poorly they are designed. I normally don't trust anything. Oh well it won't happen again.
Last edited by JDSC8VETTE; Mar 24, 2019 at 06:06 PM.
Easy! Thee jack MUST move into the car to keep the jack saddle under the jack puck. The shorter the jack arm the more it must move in for a given lift height. Had my short arm jack slip off the puck- like the OP! Bought a long arm jack, which as noted for the same max lift of the short jack, which required it to move in 2.6 inches, it only needs to move in 1.2 inches. (Note that is for the same lift NOT the max lift on the large jack.)
However that is a very heavy jack and it did not move it "at all" on my vinyl tiled floor or my concrete driveway where I often change oil. The jack saddle is also very shallow (to get the wide range of lift.) I welded on a steel rim to the saddle so it can help keep the saddle on the jack pad!
Note my method of jacking to change oil. Made those ~10 pound stanchions from a 2X6 and some plywood for ~$10.
Same thing happened to me on my 16 Stingray. I posted pictures of the damage and of the car stripped to its undies. I had it repaired at my local Chevrolet dealer to my complete satisfaction. I went out of pocket to the tune of just under $3,000. I didn't want the hit on my insurance.
^^^ The other issue is many jacks today have shallow saddles. I have 4 HF jacks. They all have shallow saddles. In fact the long arm jack I bought weighed 95 pounds and had a very shallow saddle. Probably so they could advertise a very low lift number. It was not moving in when I jacked. I added a steel lip to mine. Fits fine with a 1 inch high jack pad.
I'm glad that you understand the problem with some of these jacking pucks. I'm also thinking of adding something to the edge of my Jack pad so there is no way the pucks could ever slip again. I'm very confident that my flat bottom aluminum pucks with square edges will work fine but sometimes it better to be safe than sorry.
I know we need the pucks but ANYWAY to use jack with out the use of pucks? I mean just to change oil to lift one side only, then insert jack stand for security?
This is not a puck failure.
If the jack wheels can’t move as your jacking it up, something has to move because of the angle change as you lift the car.
You need to have the jack at the correct position so it can move as you lift the car.
I used that same jack on my car at least 10 times with the plastic puck and never had a problem.
Same thing happened to me on my 16 Stingray. I posted pictures of the damage and of the car stripped to its undies. I had it repaired at my local Chevrolet dealer to my complete satisfaction. I went out of pocket to the tune of just under $3,000. I didn't want the hit on my insurance.
FWIW, my insurance agent said it is not uncommon to have a jack slip when changing a tire etc. That is covered under comprehensive. It's like tree falling on your car, should not cause an insurance increase. Have to ask.
Good idea. Lots of fun welding steel to cast iron!
Originally Posted by JerryU
^^^ The other issue is many jacks today have shallow saddles. I have 4 HF jacks. They all have shallow saddles. In fact the long arm jack I bought weighed 95 pounds and had a very shallow saddle. Probably so they could advertise a very low lift number. It was not moving in when I jacked. I added a steel lip to mine. Fits fine with a 1 inch high jack pad.
I think what is being overlooked here is correct tool usage. The non-metallic jack pucks are designed to
be used with a two post lift where the entire vehicle is picked up and remains level. The metallic pucks
with a flat bottom and square edges are designed to be used with a floor jack when picking up the
vehicle from the side. As JerryU has pointed out and pictured, the jack saddle and puck work like
male and female components that interlock together. Remember when jacking up from one side only
the frame is at angle and with the jack needing to roll there can be a strong sideways force on the
connection.
Good idea. Lots of fun welding steel to cast iron!
Ground off all the paint and if cast, it's cast steel. Could just be stamped then threaded (my estimate of construction along with most of the jack frame.) Configuration doesn't need great flowing cast iron. Welded fine, no cracks!
^^^ That is safe. I tried using home made long ramps I made for my C6. Worked OK for the wife's CTS she had at the time by putting the car in drive it would slowly move up. However with a standard shift, even when slipping the clutch, one ramp would often move forward. Had to ask the wife to watch as I tried to move up the ramps. I like to work when I want and not have to rely on having someone there so two jacks and stanchions work for me.
idk what you were using the jack for, but when I do my oil changes in the z06 (but I have a c5z), I use the low pro race ramps, drive up on them w/ front wheels.. Then chock all the wheels, and then scoot a jack under the back center (under the differential w/ a 0.75"x 6" piece of wood on the jack). And then only jack up the back at the very end of the oil change, just to get that last quart or 2 out of the pan..
I've found that's the safest way to do it (atleast for an oil change)
Last edited by mammoth713; Mar 25, 2019 at 03:14 AM.
Had a recent accident where I must have misproperly aligned my 2 Ton Harbor Freight floor jack with the Burger polyurethane jack pad and as I was jacking the vehicle slipped off the jack and came crashing down on it (cracking the side skirt and damaging the door and front fender). Any advice on how to repair this damage or deal with the insurance company? I had tested the jack and and jack pad previously and they worked great but I made the mistake of not checking the jack alignment as it was on the way up. I normally do this once its finished jacking. BIG MISTAKE.
Reminder: Never put your heads under a jack only supported vehicle. Bought race ramps immediately after. Any advice appreciated. crack
Check with your insurance company. Don't know all the rules for when Comprehensive Coverage applies but this seems like it should be covered by Comp which means no rate penalties. Hard to tell from your picture but the big worry is the rocker panel below the door. That is a huge panel called the aperture panel.
The panel wraps almost all the way around the door and requires removal of the door, the front fender, the rear quarter and the interior trim pieces at the door opening. Then the panel has to be unglued from the frame and the replacement glued back on. The easiest and usually best way to repair these is to patch them but you are going to have to have the door and fender removed to repair/replace them anyways. New fender runs about $900, a new door runs about $1400 while the aperture panel runs about $750.
for the OP: RaceRamps doesn't make it impossible to slip. it is hard to lock the front wheels, and when you jack up the rear the car CAN slide backwards. Recommend something pressing on the brake, or some sort of wedge behind the front wheels.
Everyone makes fun of me for my front tow hook, but every time I put my car on the race ramps I strap it to a D-hook mounted into my garage wall, which stops the car from sliding back at all. Works until I get my 2-post lift in my garage...
IRemember when jacking up from one side only the frame is at angle and with the jack needing to roll there can be a strong sideways force on the connection.
Good observation. I tend to use two jacks, one on each side (passenger and driver) of the vehicle. Go up a little with one, then go up a little on the other side. This keeps the car reasonably level with less tilting sideways. Downside is this requires owning two jacks, having enough clearance on both sides and its a much slower lifting process. Wheel chocks are used on the opposite end (front or back) to ensure the car doesn't move forward or backward. While the parking brake will hold the rear obviously the front tires are free to turn so if possible jack the front first if you need all four in the air. My brother just got a Quick Jack which is by far the easiest, fastest and safest method I've seen for getting the car securely up.
The other issue is many jacks today have shallow saddles. I have 4 HF jacks. They all have shallow saddles. In fact the long arm jack I bought weighed 95 pounds and had a very shallow saddle. Probably so they could advertise a very low lift number. It was not moving in when I jacked. I added a steel lip to mine. Fits fine with a 1 inch high jack pad.
