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A jackstand just is not going to fail if properly located, every one of those I bet failed because the load was not centered or the vehicle was lifted from one side and then the other which caused a side load on the stand
I had a factory scissor jack bend on me once... and guess what - the car was NOT on level ground and didn't have chocks in place. As the car went up it rocked backwards just enough to put a side load on the jack. Ironically most of the time you see people using factory scissor jacks is changing tires on the side of the road on clearly un-even or soft ground
The problem with using regular jackstands on the Corvette is that the only place to put them is way inboard on the frame cross members. That is probably fine if you are doing one end of the car. But if you want to raise the whole car and keep it level (such as when changing oil) the car is going to be unstable with the jackstands in the middle like that. I bet my kid could tip the car over when it is on jackstands in the middle of the car. The wooden blocks under the wheels approach will work, unless you are doing something where you need to take the wheels off.
The problem with using regular jackstands on the Corvette is that the only place to put them is way inboard on the frame cross members. That is probably fine if you are doing one end of the car. But if you want to raise the whole car and keep it level (such as when changing oil) the car is going to be unstable with the jackstands in the middle like that. I bet my kid could tip the car over when it is on jackstands in the middle of the car. The wooden blocks under the wheels approach will work, unless you are doing something where you need to take the wheels off.
4 good quality jackstands set at the in board factory jack points ... not a shot are you and your kid going to be able to "pull it over " . All the weight of a vette is in the center on top of the factory inboard recommended jack points ... hence the reason why they are the recommend points to support the car ...
I made this block pad which not only spreads the load the high density foam conforms to the contour along the casting. The foam is so dense it only compresses about 3/8 of an inch when the full weight of the rear is on it.
As an aside the foam is so dense I used screws to attach it to the 2x4.
It doesn't seem safe to me. I would put some kind of race ramps or wooden blocks under the tires once the vehicle is elevated. The blocks should have stoppers on them so the car can't roll off. I'm sure people have done it with 4 jackstands, but I wouldn't do it. Search for some of user JerryU posts to see how he uses wood blocks to provide a safe alternative to 4 jackstands.
Well, since starting this thread a few days ago I have come up with an alternative answer to getting my C7 off the ground to install a new X-Pipe. I am fairly new to the Pensacola area, I did not even think about the Navy base having an MWR auto hobby shop. So I looked online and there it was...and there are 8 lifts available. I gave them a call to to ask about the abrupt and high angle that most drive on lifts have for an approach ramp, the guy there told me that they have one that is made for low riding cars, like the corvette, and he has personally seen several C7 corvettes on it. So I plan to be there this Saturday morning to change out my X-Pipe. I wish I would have thought about this earlier but it was interesting and fun to read all the different opinions about using jack stands. I think for the future, I will soon be looking into purchasing one of these, https://www.kwik-lift.com/ this seems to me, to be one of the best and fastest methods of getting your car up in the air in your private garage. Thanks for all the input!
Great news Akcajunz!
I remember back in the 80's our USAF base had the same thing, was great to have a shop on base!
Have fun getting that factory x-pipe outta the muffler pipes!
You might take the opportunity to check your rear diff fluid level and the tranny (if M7). Check the How To's and FYI section here if you havent already.
Well, since starting this thread a few days ago I have come up with an alternative answer to getting my C7 off the ground to install a new X-Pipe. I am fairly new to the Pensacola area, I did not even think about the Navy base having an MWR auto hobby shop. So I looked online and there it was...and there are 8 lifts available. I gave them a call to to ask about the abrupt and high angle that most drive on lifts have for an approach ramp, the guy there told me that they have one that is made for low riding cars, like the corvette, and he has personally seen several C7 corvettes on it. So I plan to be there this Saturday morning to change out my X-Pipe. I wish I would have thought about this earlier but it was interesting and fun to read all the different opinions about using jack stands. I think for the future, I will soon be looking into purchasing one of these, https://www.kwik-lift.com/ this seems to me, to be one of the best and fastest methods of getting your car up in the air in your private garage. Thanks for all the input!
Congratulations on finding a lift at the Navy’s hobby shop . Depending on which lifts they have the lift arms “could” be too tall to get under the C7s jacking points especially if you have jacking pucks in place. That would mean you will need to jack up the rear of the car high enough to get the lift arms under the car. If you need to do that you’ll need a 2x4 with rubber pad (like the one I pictured above) which you place on the top of the jack cradle BEFORE jacking under the rear cradle suspension cross section. Why is that important? The cradle suspension cross section is a light weight HOLLOW CASING and can be cracked if jacked improbably which would be a extremely costly mistake!
Remember to use/install jack pucks in the four C7 jack points. Do not use the bare lift cradles to lift the car unless you have jack pucks in place.
Great news Akcajunz!
I remember back in the 80's our USAF base had the same thing, was great to have a shop on base!
Have fun getting that factory x-pipe outta the muffler pipes!
You might take the opportunity to check your rear diff fluid level and the tranny (if M7). Check the How To's and FYI section here if you havent already.
Thanks for the heads up on the muffler pipe advice! Hopefully it wont be too bad. I'm a 30 year retired vet and fairly new to the area so I need to familiarize myself with everything available at all the close proximity bases around Pensacola, there are several within a 75 mile radius.
Originally Posted by Maxie2U
Congratulations on finding a lift at the Navy’s hobby shop . Depending on which lifts they have the lift arms “could” be too tall to get under the C7s jacking points especially if you have jacking pucks in place. That would mean you will need to jack up the rear of the car high enough to get the lift arms under the car. If you need to do that you’ll need a 2x4 with rubber pad (like the one I pictured above) which you place on the top of the jack cradle BEFORE jacking under the rear cradle suspension cross section. Why is that important? The cradle suspension cross section is a light weight HOLLOW CASING and can be cracked if jacked improbably which would be a extremely costly mistake!
Remember to use/install jack pucks in the four C7 jack points. Do not use the bare lift cradles to lift the car unless you have jack pucks in place.
I was told on the phone by the auto hobby shop worker that they have a drive on lift that the ramp angle is low enough to drive my C7 on to without scraping the front end. He quoted that he has seen several C7's on it in the past. Thanks for the heads up on all the advise you provided. I'll keep all that in my memory banks! Thanks again!
Last edited by Steve Garrett; Nov 25, 2019 at 09:22 AM.
Reason: Merged Posts - Please use the Multi-Quote button when responding to more than one person.
Keep in mind that four 3 ton jack stands will hold your car up with no problem. For a novice a lift is actually more dangerous. Over the years I have worked under several cars (Including c7's) supported by jack stands and never had an issue. If you're that afraid of it you probably should just pay someone else to do it and be done with it.
Well, since starting this thread a few days ago I have come up with an alternative answer to getting my C7 off the ground to install a new X-Pipe. I am fairly new to the Pensacola area, I did not even think about the Navy base having an MWR auto hobby shop. So I looked online and there it was...and there are 8 lifts available. I gave them a call to to ask about the abrupt and high angle that most drive on lifts have for an approach ramp, the guy there told me that they have one that is made for low riding cars, like the corvette, and he has personally seen several C7 corvettes on it. So I plan to be there this Saturday morning to change out my X-Pipe. I wish I would have thought about this earlier but it was interesting and fun to read all the different opinions about using jack stands. I think for the future, I will soon be looking into purchasing one of these, https://www.kwik-lift.com/ this seems to me, to be one of the best and fastest methods of getting your car up in the air in your private garage. Thanks for all the input!
I've spent more hours under cars supported by jack stands than I care to think about.
To me personally - the scariest time is when you jack the car up, and go under to place the jack stands - if the jack fails at that point - the stands aren't under it, and you are the most vulnerable. When possible - I leave the jack under something that will survive if a jack stand fails - but hasn't happened yet.
One "recommendation" - once the weight of the car is on the jack stands, get out from under, and give the car a good hard push forward and back & side to side. It should be solid.
Question: Using race ramps, is it possible to tip the back end up with a jack to level the car for oil changes...or is it dangerous in that the front wheels can move once the back wheels are no longer touching the ground?
Question: Using race ramps, is it possible to tip the back end up with a jack to level the car for oil changes...or is it dangerous in that the front wheels can move once the back wheels are no longer touching the ground?
Use wheel chocks on the front wheels while up on the ramps. This will solve your concern.
Use 4 heavy duty jack stands and just be careful. Back in the 60's we jacked up my Firebird with a triangle leg bumper jack and put stands under the frame to change the rear - did that often.
IAIA - the answer is YES . I do that (more or less) when I change oil. I am able to get the car "level" without lifting either rear wheel off the ground entirely (based on a cheap bubble level placed on the door sill). But I'm using the lowest "lift" Race Ramp they make...
BUT - I typically get the car on the ramps - then open the drain plug, then lift the back a bit, and drop the back end back down before I go under the car to remove the filter and to replace the drain plug...
As Marco8x stated - putting a chock in there is a good idea.
I simply backed mine onto a ramp, and used my "Safe Jacks" jack stands for the front with the adapters.
It was easy enough to get the pipe on but getting the pipe off was a bit difficult just due to age on my car specifically.
Easy to do on 4 jack stands but I would add some wheel supports even if it's just wood.
I did use the floor jack to help lifts and lower the exhaust.
I had a factory scissor jack bend on me once... and guess what - the car was NOT on level ground and didn't have chocks in place. As the car went up it rocked backwards just enough to put a side load on the jack. Ironically most of the time you see people using factory scissor jacks is changing tires on the side of the road on clearly un-even or soft ground 
. Depending on which lifts they have the lift arms “could” be too tall to get under the C7s jacking points especially if you have jacking pucks in place. That would mean you will need to jack up the rear of the car high enough to get the lift arms under the car. If you need to do that you’ll need a 2x4 with rubber pad (like the one I pictured above) which you place on the top of the jack cradle BEFORE jacking under the rear cradle suspension cross section. Why is that important? The cradle suspension cross section is a light weight HOLLOW CASING and can be cracked if jacked improbably which would be a extremely costly mistake!
