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But by the end of the 3 days that I had the car up on the quick lift I was very comfortable getting under it and I would rather use a Quick Jack than to try and jack the car up high enough to get Wheel Cribs under the tires . Plus it was nice to let it down when I needed to reach something from the top , you cant do this with jack stands or wheel cribs
Dave
It took me a little getting used to as well. But I'm so glad I have them. I just had to take a fender off my car for a project I'm doing. I couldn't get to the last screw due to how I had positioned the jack frames. Once I put the front wheel back on, It took just a couple minutes to drop the car all the way down to reposition everything and have it back in the air again. I'm far more worried about something bad happening while I'm driving the car than while I'm working on it.
But by the end of the 3 days that I had the car up on the quick lift I was very comfortable getting under it and I would rather use a Quick Jack than to try and jack the car up high enough to get Wheel Cribs under the tires . Plus it was nice to let it down when I needed to reach something from the top , you cant do this with jack stands or wheel cribs
Dave
My experience exactly! I recently sold my Wheel Cribs because the Quick Jack is so much easier to set up and use. Using a floor jack and cross beam adapter to get the car up on Wheel Cribs was a royal pain! But once the car is up on the Quick jack and you do lower it so it is resting on the down locks, it is NOT moving. (I shook it before I climbed under it). Doing any vehicle service on any of my cars has never been easier.
My experience exactly! I recently sold my Wheel Cribs because the Quick Jack is so much easier to set up and use. Using a floor jack and cross beam adapter to get the car up on Wheel Cribs was a royal pain! But once the car is up on the Quick jack and you do lower it so it is resting on the down locks, it is NOT moving. (I shook it before I climbed under it). Doing any vehicle service on any of my cars has never been easier.
You’re actually supposed to depressurize the system after putting the car to whatever locking position you want. I’m assuming with the Corvette, it’s the very top locking position. So once you get it to the top, you make sure the bar is locked, then press and hold the down button for 5 seconds. You’ll hear the system depressurize, and it should be locked into place.
Mine has been leaking, which has been a problem. It’s leaking at the adapter that goes into the hydraulic cylinder. Pretty much leaking from the bottom of the nut. I tried tightening it, didn’t help. Tried putting new thread seal on it, didn’t help. I’ll probably have to call QuickJack. It leaks a little ATF, but I can usually place a towel under it, get the car up, and depressurize the system and then it stops leaking.
Last edited by cdominguez; Dec 30, 2019 at 02:59 PM.
Even with the system depressurized, the cylinders are still full. If the mechanical lock failed, the cylinder would still catch the car. Assuming the shock of that event blew a seal on the cylinder, it would still bleed down slowly enough that you could escape.
I'm just not worried about that possibility. If you look through their safety information, these jacks are seriously overbuilt. They can lift and support something like 3x their weight rating. Not that you'd ever want to do that, but it gives you an idea of the kind of load that would be required to cause a failure.
You’re actually supposed to depressurize the system after putting the car to whatever locking position you want. I’m assuming with the Corvette, it’s the very top locking position. So once you get it to the top, you make sure the bar is locked, then press and hold the down button for 5 seconds. You’ll hear the system depressurize, and it should be locked into place.
Mine has been leaking, which has been a problem. It’s leaking at the adapter that goes into the hydraulic cylinder. Pretty much leaking from the bottom of the nut. I tried tightening it, didn’t help. Tried putting new thread seal on it, didn’t help. I’ll probably have to call QuickJack. It leaks a little ATF, but I can usually place a towel under it, get the car up, and depressurize the system and then it stops leaking.
We do depressurize the system once on the locks. I initially had a leak like you but was able to fix it with a new application of thread tape. Good luck on your fix.
My experience exactly! I recently sold my Wheel Cribs because the Quick Jack is so much easier to set up and use. Using a floor jack and cross beam adapter to get the car up on Wheel Cribs was a royal pain! But once the car is up on the Quick jack and you do lower it so it is resting on the down locks, it is NOT moving. (I shook it before I climbed under it). Doing any vehicle service on any of my cars has never been easier.
Its so funny as I felt the same way the first time I tried to lift the car to put it on wheel cribs , doing one end was never racking , then doing the other end …. was a pain in the A*&^S to get the jack under it so now I had to use 2 jacks , lift one side then run around , lift the other side …
first time I lifted it with the Quick Jack , I also shook the hell out of the car , there was no way it was coming down off that thing .
I just installed my headers and X pipe with the quick jack , along with the pistons that hold everything up and the locking mechanism that you engage I put jackstands on the rear cross members also , since I could not put anything in the front of the car as it would seriously get in the way I did put jackstands under the quick lift, just in case something failed , and the safety failed .. the quick lift would just come down on the jackstand . Not a likely course of events to have both fail but ...
Think about it , you dont put jackstands under the car when using a real lift right , it's the hydraulics and the safety that is holding every thing up just like the quick.lift
Dave
My lift just arrived. Right up front in the safety section it specifically says I should use jack stands. Call it lawyerese BS, I'm using jack stands. The cost is nothing and the peace of mind is priceless.
My lift just arrived. Right up front in the safety section it specifically says I should use jack stands. Call it lawyerese BS, I'm using jack stands. The cost is nothing and the peace of mind is priceless.
I agree , it's a CYA . Have you seen the videos of them loading a 5,000 with I think 10 000 or 15 000 pounds and there is another where they cut the pistons while the lift is loaded with weight
Any tool used wrong is dangerous and this tool , when used with common sense is really safe
Dave
Smart to have the jack stands as a backup, especially if they're laying around in the garage. With automated machine safety the more redundancy you have, the higher rating of safety you get. Makes it pretty darn close to impossible to have a mishap.
I see that it is not very popular here, but I really like my KWIK-LIFT ramps. They are, IMHO, the safest way to lift your car and work under it. I don't have a shop, so I bought mine so that I could put the casters under it and roll it as close to the wall as possible. The wife has more room to park, and I feel safer that she will not ding it or drag something down the side of it. I have owned two Corvettes since buying it, and never a mishap (knock on wood). I never feel unsafe when changing oil or performing other under-car maintenance.
Obviously, it is not for everyone. Cost with accessories is about $1800, but I feel that my noggin is worth that much.
It is very convenient for me. I drive onto it, slide the jack under it, and in three or four minutes it is safely against the wall.
KWIK-LIFT for me, for convenience, and SAFETY.