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It's hard to get around PV=nRT. Dropping cold tire pressure a couple of psi will mitigate the rise, without any appreciable risk to the tires. Another option is to inflate with nitrogen, which provides more stable pressure over time/temp.
It's hard to get around PV=nRT. Dropping cold tire pressure a couple of psi will mitigate the rise, without any appreciable risk to the tires. Another option is to inflate with nitrogen, which provides more stable pressure over time/temp.
Nitrogen is subject to the same PV=nRT physics as air (which is mostly nitrogen anyway) so nitrogen is not actually a solution to this problem.
Nitrogen is subject to the same PV=nRT physics as air (which is mostly nitrogen anyway) so nitrogen is not actually a solution to this problem.
Of course it's subject to the same physics, as implied by my opening sentence. I didn't say it was a solution pressure changes, just another option to mitigate the problem.
According to NHTSA, air escapes tires more quickly than nitrogen, meaning more frequent adjustment is required. Nitrogen used to inflate tires is delivered "dry," meaning it contains less water vapor than air from a run-of-the-mill compressor. The presence of water vapor in a tire increases its pressure variance with temperature over that of one filled with "dry" gas. All of this points to nitrogen providing more stable tire pressures, requiring less adjustment, over time. Nitrogen is, however, no substitute for regular/proactive tire care/maintenance nor will it eliminate the problem. The question is whether nitrogen's arguably marginal benefits are worth its cost, which is a case of YMMV.
I leave mine at 28 cold, rides softer and no noticeable difference in tire ware going on 3.5 yrs. 9.5K miles. Should be easier on the cracked wheel issue as well.
Originally Posted by madrob2020
With these low profile & next to no rubber between road & wheel, less air in tire means less stiff rubber to absorb some of the shock going over expansion joints, potholes, etc. Rubber with less air pressure will allow tire to flex more which COULD lead to sidewall cracking also. JMO
If I’m reading this right, I’m damned if do and damned if I don’t. So what is the answer? Cold pressure at 28 or 30psi?
I use 30 as my tire gauge is easier to read at 30 to adjust my tires rather than 28 or 32. There is a big black mark for 30 the others have little marks. LOL
If I’m reading this right, I’m damned if do and damned if I don’t. So what is the answer? Cold pressure at 28 or 30psi?
You're over-thinking this - there is very little practical difference in running at 28psi vs 30psi cold pressure.
Originally Posted by Elk
The tire is part of the suspension. A softer tire absorbs a bit more of the bumps, just like a softer spring.
But, as a practical matter, tire pressures within 10% of each other are going to be very similar.
It's unlikely a <10% pressure reduction in a tire that's designed to handle ZERO PRESSURE (i.e., RUN-FLAT) conditions will cause any serious problems. Tires are rubber that's supposed to be flexible and pressures increase as the tires warm-up.
Last edited by NortonCO; Aug 12, 2020 at 11:31 PM.
I hate repeating myself but i've got around 80,000 miles of experience with the tires on the base C6 & C7 combined. The tires on the base cars are the same size. And I keep records of tread depth across the width of the tire as mileage accumulates. My experience says that 30 hot is the best pressure for even wear across the width of the tire. So whatever cold pressure gives me 30 psi when hot, is what I use. This is so easy to monitor with the TPS system that we have.
Not only is tire pressure easy to monitor with the TPMS, the read-out is quite accurate - as it is on all vehicles I have/had with TPMS. I am impressed by these systems.
GM's suggested 30 PSI cold is a good starting point for most folks. The "best" air pressure is like the "best" suspension settings, it varies with the driver and his style. It sounds like Walt White Coupe's driving style matches what the designer's had in mind. More agressive cornering (or less) or harder launches may work better with higher or lower starting pressures. Find what works best for you. FWIW I don't think 2 to 3 PSI changes will make much difference on the street.
I live in Vegas also and was wondering the same thing. I'm sure you've noticed that our excessive summer heat makes tires hard as rocks after around 5 years. So I wonder if it would be a bad idea to run lower pressure for fear of sidewall cracking.
I just replaced tires on my 2015 Honda (only had 17000 miles on them) and the difference in ride is remarkable. I knew they were getting hard by the lack of traction. I don't know how old your tires are but I think the stiffness once they harden will be the real danger to your wheels.
Every tire is out of date after five years and should be replaced. There's a code on the tire that tells how old they are. Google knows.
I was wondering about lower than 30psi. I live in Las Vegas, and it sure gets hot here in the summer. With the tire pressure set at 30psi cold, after driving in this heat, the pressure can go up to 35psi. I have a GS, and know about the wide body wheel problems. I was thinking about setting the cold pressure at 28psi, so it will go up to about 32 or 33psi while driving. What do you people think?
That's not how it works. You seem to think the hot tire pressure is related to the cold pressure. If the spec calls for 30 psi baseline when cold, then the hot temp will be exactly the psi the engineers want it to be. If they calculated that to be 36 psi for example, your way would make it 3-4 psi lower then it should be. Trying to second guess them is not a good idea. I'm pretty sure the owners manual doesn't say 30 psi except if you live in Las Vegas.
The only place you need to play with the psi is when you are doing a trackday, or racing. Then it is personal preference where you like it for a certain feel while on the track. I would just set it for 30 psi when cold and leave it at that. Your choice of course.
We keep our Z06 in Palm Desert and the temps lately have been averaging 108F to 114F. One day was 121F. We use 30 psi cold. However, if the OAT is 110F, your “cold” tire pressure will likely indicate 32F or even 33F if the tires were inflated on a more normal day where the OAT was maybe 80F or less.
On big airplanes the tire pressure is set cold and never increased or decreased when flying in Alaska at -30F or in Arizona at 120F. I tend to think that all these tire engineers have this kinda figured out for street use.