Welcome aboard!

I use one and it works fine.

 

Like I said not a bad idea to use them the more protection the better.
The ones I used the switch shorted out on the strip .

 

Not much off a surge protector is the electrical switch shorts out now is it? Ya think the surge protection will be reliable?

 

If you are "shorting out" (you probably aren't) your circuit plugging a low draw battery tender whether it is in a surge protector or not, you likely have other issues of some kind.
As far as surge protection, for expensive stuff sure. A good battery tender is like 40 bucks or less, so, I wouldn't bother unless there happens to already be one right there where I wanted to plug it in anyway; ymmv.

 

I use a similar set up. CTEK on a block of wood plugged into the receptacle just above the battery in the trunk. Hook up is so easy - open trunk, plug into receptacle, close trunk (it won’t hurt the wire or the trunk seal, or you can leave the hatch closed but not latched. The courtesy lights will go out in about 10 minutes or so. Then just plug in CTEK, set it depending on model you have and you’re done.

i started with the alligator clips when I had my C5 and then used on my C6 before changing to the eyelet option which I attached to the battery clamps on my C6. Although I had to open the hood to complete plugging in the CTEK ( I velcroed the connector to the top of the battery). No sparks and no fear of crossing the polarity when connecting the CTEK.

Using the trunk receptacle in the C7 is the easiest and error free connection of them all. GM put it where it is and included instructions for use to facilitate connecting a battery maintainer. It ain’t for lighting cigarettes.

 

So when a lightning strike sends a surge through your $40 tender and fries the electronics in your Corvette, will you still be smug about it?

 

Your tender will be fried... Car will be fine

 

If your Corvette is a C3 it "might" be OK since the key switch isolates the cars electronics from the battery 12V circuit. If it is a C6 or newer Corvette, and the tender gets fried you will also have fried electronics in your car since the electronics are never isolated from the 12 Volt system.

 

The ac power converter circuitry will get fried in the tender, but it won't go past the tender... Car will be fine.

 

Sorry, but lightning induced surges do not work that way. Is your opinion based on personal experience? If so, I would say you got very lucky and the voltage spike was very low level.

In my job, I have designed and tested lightning suppression circuits for avionics. These circuits add thousands of dollars of cost to avionics boxes but we have to use them since losing aircraft electronics is not an option when lightning strikes a plane (which happens surprising often actually). Every individual input and output for a system along with power and memory hold up circuits need to have their own protection circuit to prevent lighting impulse damage.

Unless GM was willing to spend a bunch of money on lightning suppression circuits for every ECU, BCU and all other digital electronics, those electronics will not be protected. Also - the spike will go straight through the tender (while frying it) and into your car - that is a fact.

I do not know if GM has included lighting suppression, but knowing how they bean count every penny, I would not gamble on them doing it.

 

It is based on tangential experience.. but clearly if you think a surge suppressor is required, that is the way to go for you; certainly it isn't going to hurt anything.

 

You can always charge your Corvette in a cave during an electrical storm if anyone is concerned about damaging their charger.

 

Unfortunately, many times this is true. It of course depends on the nature and intensity of the spike.

Having had my house hit by lightening I can verify everything was sizzled - connected to a surge protector, GFCI, etc. or not. But nothing will protect a house against a direct hit.

Use a surge protector if it appeals to you. There is no downside other than a modest cost.

 

I have been using Deltran Battery Tenders for over 30 years with no problems!!!

 

How much for the battery tender?
David

 

1.25 amp! Yikes. That would be OK for charging up my alkaline batteries. Read that Deltran is now manufactured in China and quality had gone downhill the past few years.

 

Use mine all winter. It’s plugged in right now.

 

Actually a low amp rate battery maintainer is exactly what you want for maximum charging safety and long battery life. Rapid, high amp charging causes excessive gassing (as well as sulfation on the battery plates) and could cause swelling or even bursting of the battery case. Late model Vettes have vented batteries but the charging process still releases volatile hydrogen gas which could collect in enclosed spaces. All of my technician friends have recommended low amp, extended battery charging / maintaining except in emergency situations where quick mobility is required.

Most battery maintainers are are just that - the are used to maintain the desired full charge in the battery during extended periods of non use (think winter storage or during several weeks of parked in the garage). While many maintainers are used to maintain the charge, most will provide a modest amount of recharge to a battery and in some cases return a good, but discharged battery, to an operational level.

i have used a maintainer (CTEK) on my various Vettes since 1998 and have averaged close to ten years of battery life. The only exception was on my C7 (five years) due to my dealer offering a $30 discount on a Delco 48HPG and free installation with LOF. Seemed like an ounce of prevention was worth was well worth the cost with all the electronics on my 3LT.

Naturally, it is your car so you should do what ever makes you comfortable.

 

Did the plug in adapter come with this, or did you have to order it separately?

 

What is your definition of low amps? Also, all batteries do not have venting. Sulfation occurs when the battery is not being used (voltage drops below 11 volts for a 12V battery).

I prefer using smart chargers/maintainers that can determine the amount of amperage to apply dependent in what stage in the charge cycle the battery is (ie, higher amps applied early in the charging cycle and lower when in maintenance mode). When I see a trickle charger with a continuous 1.25 amp rating I shudder to think why. This is too low. I prefer the smart features of modern chargers than the trickle charger your grandfather used to use back in the day. I'm not interested waiting a week to say my battery is finally fully charged.