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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 06:16 AM
  #21  
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its a balance, not all jobs are that much and others are way more!

overall vette in my opinion is still very medium cost at best for most jobs, even less $$ if u do things yourself.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 06:27 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wrecker3
The Ranger Method works well !!
Works well with brake fluid also.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 07:04 AM
  #23  
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There is only so much room under the car....10# of s**t in a 5 # bag
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #24  
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This is why A8's are better than M7's.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 10:17 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Redflash
The Vette engineers should also be shot for the Mickey Mouse job they did on the battery storage compartment...........
Now I agree there are a couple of items or so that might have been thought a little farther out on the scheme of things such as location of hatch button where the left knee accidentally hits it or the exhaust is too loud on the ZR1 to actually use it on the track but overall the engineers have given us one fine performance vehicle. I can only imagine the in-house struggle, heated discussions and knock down dragouts that occurred to reach the final stage of production. I appreciate greatly the work effort that was put forth. My only real complaint has to do with the pitiful service I have been subjected to at a few dealerships. I would certainly like to see GM step up to the plate and yank a few heads at these dealers to get them to clean up their act and provide at the very least a modicum of satisfactory service for the customer.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 10:35 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LT4CMG

You’re not the first or last OP. Any of us who do our own work on modern cars have had a few choice words for the people who designed our cars.
That picture is so great. I laughed so hard. Thanks for sharing it.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 10:46 AM
  #27  
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Yep, this type stuff is somewhere on almost every car made . One model Lexus I used to work on we could change the headlight bulb surprisingly easily. But the little peanut bulb in the front side marker, we had to partially remove the plastic front bumper cover. On a Lexus SC400, the first step in the repair manual for removing the heat/AC big plastic housing in the dash was????? remove the engine. Yeah, kind of like the Jag mentioned above, one of the mounting bolts through the firewall was 4 inches long and there was only 1.5 inches clearance between the engine and the firewall.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 11:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DALE#3
Works well with brake fluid also.

There is no way the ranger method comes anywhere near able to purge the cruddy fluid from the lines and calipers. It's barely adequate for the clutch system, and even then I'd only consider it suitable for a lightly driven Sunday cruiser.
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Old Apr 24, 2021 | 12:11 AM
  #29  
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Engineers design vehicles for ease of build, not repair. You'd be shocked at some of the boneheaded stuff they do


Originally Posted by Neil Baker
I have been a Corvette fan, nut, since the age of 13. I have owned a C4, C5, C6, and now a C7. How do the smart engineers at Chevrolet design a Corvette that requires catalytic converter and part of the exhaust to be removed in order to change clutch fluid and bleed off the complete system. They designed a system that made the bleeder on the slave cylinder a major job to reach. This recommended maintenance job cost me $400 to complete. Makes no sense!
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Old Apr 24, 2021 | 03:49 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Jeff V.
There is no way the ranger method comes anywhere near able to purge the cruddy fluid from the lines and calipers. It's barely adequate for the clutch system, and even then I'd only consider it suitable for a lightly driven Sunday cruiser.
I agree with you about the brakes. However, there does seem to be a surprising amount of fluid exchange between the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder reservoir. If you have visibly dirty clutch fluid, do one fluid exchange via the Ranger method and then pump the clutch the recommended 30 times, you will have noticeably dirty fluid again in the reservoir.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 04:01 AM
  #31  
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Your answer is Money..all about money and profits.

For example changing a burn light bulbs off a c7.

You option are to take the whole bumper apart or remove the wheels, unscrew the touch screw to get access to the bulb. Both are a pain to do. If you can’t do it, another option us to take it to a dealership to replace the bulb which they charge heavily for labor.

Last edited by vetteguy5578; Apr 25, 2021 at 04:04 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 11:08 AM
  #32  
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For a '86 convertible, you have to remove the D/S front fender panel to replace the battery.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 11:50 AM
  #33  
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I did the Ranger method on our C5 and C6. After a few changes the fluid stayed clean for quite a while. The first time I opened the cap at 12,000 miles the fluid was nasty. Black with some kind of film floating on top. The method is easy and it work for me.
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 08:29 AM
  #34  
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These threads always crack me up.
Is anyone posting here an engineer? A mechanical engineer, or better yet a mechanical product design engineer?

When I was in highschool I used to think a lot of the negative things posted above. All I can say is that as a mechanical product design engineer with more than a decade of experience, there are more factors to be considered than you could ever imagine. Cost and servicability are of course factors, but there are many, many other things to worry about, in every industry that the general public knows nothing about and engineers need to balance all these factors the best they can given the time they have. Time is a massive limiter. A lot of times just as I feel I am catching my breath on a design, management pulls me onto something new because the market NEEDS it. No time to refine.

Wish I could beam this experience into this post so then you could all "download" it and stand back and appreciate the amazing job GM engineers did on the C7. Truly a wonderful job.

That is all. Good day.
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 09:13 AM
  #35  
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So can anyone explain to me why you need to pull the slave cylinder out of the car to install a remote bleeder? It looks like there's plenty of access to the bleed fitting once the cat is removed. I don't understand why you can't just pull that out and screw the remote bleeder in.
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 11:46 AM
  #36  
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I should say I'm not at all mechnically oriented but as a 30+ year computer programmer I totally understand @Dennis Bernal

I've been in the position of telling a user that something he considered "sounds pretty easy" was, in actuality, very difficult.

I've also been in exactly the opposite situation.

Anywho, not knowing anything about the "Ranger method", I googled it and came up with this article (which refers back to a thread on here for its origin).

Ranger Method

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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 01:09 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by midyear
most engineers aren't mechanics, and are not really concerned in what it takes for repair, only assembly.
CAD may have made it easier, but my late father-in-law, a Chrysler designer, said that many tense moments occurred when the different design areas met to map out which parts of the engine compartment would be available for which components. Uneasy compromise apparently was the result.

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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 03:24 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by midyear
most engineers aren't mechanics, and are not really concerned in what it takes for repair, only assembly.
You got it!... Most managers aren't Designers... the designer got to find room for the hairbrained scheme some corporate manager directed them to accomplished... who are "not really concerned in what it takes for" design and assembly, only sales!...

Last edited by c5arlen; Apr 28, 2021 at 03:35 PM.
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Old May 3, 2021 | 09:52 AM
  #39  
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I decided I was going to bleed my clutch the right way. What an absolute pain in the ***. If they had just used manifold studs that were a quarter inch shorter, the cat pipe would have dropped right out. As it is, the cat gets trapped between the manifold studs and the engine cradle. You can rock the engine on the mounts to get it free, but it shouldn't be that way at all. If I could get the studs out of the manifold without the risk of snapping them off, I'd install shorter ones. Putting it back in is going to be a massive headache. I can't believe they consider this to be a regular maintenance item.

I also answered my own question regarding the remote bleeder. The factory bleed fitting is a couple inches long. Getting it out would be fairly easy. But getting the remote bleeder fittings into the clutch slave correctly, and getting them tightened down would be nearly impossible due to lack of clearance. It's hard enough to get a wrench on the bleeder to begin with. It's just not a risk I'm willing to take.
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Old May 3, 2021 | 10:22 AM
  #40  
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Thanks, I had been wondering about that myself. I have yet to take this task on, still just doing Ranger. But it really would be better to do the full monty.

Originally Posted by Jeff V.
I decided I was going to bleed my clutch the right way. What an absolute pain in the ***. If they had just used manifold studs that were a quarter inch shorter, the cat pipe would have dropped right out. As it is, the cat gets trapped between the manifold studs and the engine cradle. You can rock the engine on the mounts to get it free, but it shouldn't be that way at all. If I could get the studs out of the manifold without the risk of snapping them off, I'd install shorter ones. Putting it back in is going to be a massive headache. I can't believe they consider this to be a regular maintenance item.

I also answered my own question regarding the remote bleeder. The factory bleed fitting is a couple inches long. Getting it out would be fairly easy. But getting the remote bleeder fittings into the clutch slave correctly, and getting them tightened down would be nearly impossible due to lack of clearance. It's hard enough to get a wrench on the bleeder to begin with. It's just not a risk I'm willing to take.
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