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Does anyone have pics of the tight clearance issues in question?
I have done the ranger method once in 20k miles and car shifts fine.
Just curious if there is some way to get an small piece of brake line on the slave or something to put the bleeder a few inches away or something.
Really not sure what the area in question even looks like.
This is where the bleeder is. I'll try to get a close up photo when I go back down there tonight.
This is the slave cylinder. You can see how the bleed fitting extends inward to the base flange.
BTW, beware of the dust cover. I pulled mine off and promptly fumbled it inside the bell housing. It got caught on one of the torque tube bolts, and didn't fall through to the bottom. Fortunately I have one of those little inspection cameras, so I was basically able to do endoscopic surgery on my car. I was able to use a zip tie to knock the dust cover down so I could pull it out of the vent holes in the bottom of the bell housing. If I had it to do over again, I'd wad up a shop towel before I pulled the dust cover off. I'll probably do that when I go to put it back on.
I got everything wrapped up last night. Putting it back together wasn't as bad as I was afraid it would be. I figured out how to get a pry bar into the motor mount to tilt the engine the 1/4" that it needed to get the cat back in. That would have saved me a lot of time during removal. Oh well, live and learn.
The fluid was nasty. I'm glad I swapped it out. If you bleed it this way, make sure to put the cover on the reservoir. The fluid will jump out and make a mess when your assistant pumps the clutch pedal.
I tried to get a better picture of the bleeder, but I my phone just wouldn't focus when it was so close to the torque tube.
Jeff, thanks for posting this great info. If it's not too much trouble please get a pic of the place you applied the pry bar to get that little bit of extra clearance.
Originally Posted by Jeff V.
I got everything wrapped up last night. Putting it back together wasn't as bad as I was afraid it would be. I figured out how to get a pry bar into the motor mount to tilt the engine the 1/4" that it needed to get the cat back in. That would have saved me a lot of time during removal. Oh well, live and learn.
The fluid was nasty. I'm glad I swapped it out. If you bleed it this way, make sure to put the cover on the reservoir. The fluid will jump out and make a mess when your assistant pumps the clutch pedal.
I tried to get a better picture of the bleeder, but I my phone just wouldn't focus when it was so close to the torque tube.
The work around for that is to get the photo like you did where focus is OK, then crop it, like this. I just cropped yours on my laptop. Alls this would need is more light... so I used the photo editor to brighten it up a bit. Most phones let you do the cropping in their native cam/photo apps. It is especially easy with an iPhone.
Originally Posted by Jeff V.
I tried to get a better picture of the bleeder, but I my phone just wouldn't focus when it was so close to the torque tube.
This is as physically close as I could get. It's less about the distance than the angles involved. I can't get a higher angle that shows the top of the torque tube because there's just no room to fit anything up there.
Jeff, thanks for posting this great info. If it's not too much trouble please get a pic of the place you applied the pry bar to get that little bit of extra clearance.
I added some info to the how-to thread here. Including the pry bar locations.
I was able to use a zip tie to knock the dust cover down so I could pull it out of the vent holes in the bottom of the bell housing. If I had it to do over again, I'd wad up a shop towel before I pulled the dust cover off. I'll probably do that when I go to put it back on.
