Thanks for responding. I don't think you phrased it that badly as $$$ is usually the main consideration for taking a position. But as I noted, there's a lot of other considerations. I think of these things when people say women get paid less. Well, perhaps they should ask for more. We know they've been known not to negotiate that hard. The point is just because your an X with Y years of experience it does not follow that therefore all X's with Y years of experience get paid the same. They don't.

I am trying to ask disinterested parties to explain. That's why I'm here. And I've gotten some good advice too. But when the mechanic says "Well technically you only need the one replaced but since we've gone through all the labor we might as well replace the other one too" my first thought is that perhaps that's just trying to take a little more money out of me and I don't really need the other one replaced. But when both the dealer and the independent say the same thing, what am I, the layperson, supposed to think? I guess do them both.

BTW, I don't have any mechanic friends - I have musician friends! But I did discuss it with them too and they shared their experiences and shock at how much I was quoted. Of course, most of them do not own sports cars, etc.

Again thanks for responding and I'm glad you didn't take my comment too negatiively.

 

Well, the car's at the dealers and as I understand it, already partially taken apart.

 

I agree with him with the provision that it doesn't go too far. So say $3000 for the job and to do the other side since we are there is $500, I'm in. another $3000, probably not. Yes, it does pay them a little more but so what? If it fails and it is now a $4000 bill because we have to redo and go further, it sucks. BTDT. Saved a couple bucks here and cried about it later. Again, no 2 situations are the same. It is how risk adverse you are.

So if someone here is a tech, they can look up the book rate. That says what an average mechanic would take to do the job. I have had plenty of experience with mechanics that know a trick to cut the time so they get the job because they bidded lower. Problem is, if that trick fails, you have to be willing to go back in again the right way. To replace the oil pan on a 7.3 Powerstroke, you take the engine out, remove the oil pan, chisel off the remaining "RTV" and clean it off. You then turn the motor upside down, apply a bead of sealant, put the pan on and tighten. Leave for 24 hours and then reinstall the motor. Some have done it without total removal but I have heard of leaks followed by leaks and even more leaks. Some have gotten away with it but there it is. I have had too many issues with it to feel comfortable with a hack. Now if Lingenfelter were to tell me they know a hack, I'm good. They do it all day long and 10 times a week. You get some guy out there with a hack, well, if you want to save a few bucks, go for it. My LPE shortblock is probably recycled by now. I bought cheaper heads and had LPE install them. ALL the valves on the right side were wobbly. Wonder why the spring there broke and the piston killed the valve and vice versa. Now, we pay for an R&R and a new short block with AFR heads JUST LIKE I SHOULD HAVE DONE instead of getting seduced by the low priced TFS Twisted Wedge Heads. Costs more the next time around. So before I simply allow your hack to save money, I need to be relatively certain it won't cost me more in the long run.

I didn't take it negatively AT ALL.

 

Well, the job is done and the dealer charged what he originally quoted (~$5600). However, he did take photos of the rodent damage and I'm filing a claim now. Hopefully my insurance will cover some or all of this.

 

Buy a rodent trap or a mean cat to guard the car!

Elmer

 

 

I have heard this as well (that if the tech has a small/skinny arm, this repair is much less labor intensive).

 

Wow, just read the entire thread. That is an expensive repair. Happy you got it sorted out, but begs the question if you bought the parts + tools and your time, could you have done it over the course of a couple weeks. Some of us have time, others have money and a few have both. We each decide to spend these assets how we see fit, but for $5,600 for a problem that could pop up again in 6 months, (wasnt induced by high miles or something lile that) I personal would have learned how to do the repair myself.

Good to hear you're able to enjoy the car again. Stay safe out there.

 

Maybe but how does it benefit me? I'm still paying flat rate. 1 hours or 6 on a 4 hour job does not mean anything to me. I pay for 4 because that is book time. Most shops I have seen here go off flat rate. Those that don't have either cut steps to be competitive or found a hack that cuts time but increases the chances of me finding out a while later that they broke something and tried to cover it up. I've had that in car repairs, home improvements, landscaping, etc. Kinda why I go off flat rate and if you're too low from the average, I'll pass.

 

10 years I stored my RV at the same yard. Never had a problem. One year, mice came visiting. Several years down the road, no problems yet. If it happens again, maybe something needs to be done. Till I see it often enough, I would personally be willing to believe it is a fluke.

 

lmao same issue happened to me (Los Angeles, CA). my c7 grand sport felt weird so I took it to the shop when the check engine light came on.
I told the maintenance rep that I could smell fuel. They did a gas test and found out both fuel pump and cylonoid were cracked.
Fuel pump cost $6500 + parts + tax.
But ya know what? The fuel pump is apparently covered under warranty.
Previously they said it wasn't and was going to charge me the whole shabang.
Husband read the entire manual, warranty book, etc. and had to call Chevy, dealer, service, warranty over and over again until they admitted they were wrong.
Dropped it off last week Friday 4.14.23 (Felix DTLA) with the parts.
It's Thursday 4.20.23 no news yet..................................... .... still waiting to get it back.