I will take that to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.

 

My main point is that the dealer does not understand the system. The right tank pump is NOT electric and has no moving parts to wear out. The only "wear part" appears to be the level sensor.

Ron

 

Check. Been there, Done that, even got the t-shirt!

 

Cheap compared to the divorce

 

Over the last few years I can’t believe how incompetent most dealer mechanics are. It is truly sad. Take it to a GOOD mechanic.

 

Don't know about that. I have found incompetent mechanics everywhere. Things get more technical, the incompetence gets exposed

 

Well got the car back from the dealer today. The code was P0445. The dealer said that it was only the right side (sending unit?) that has a problem. Apparently, some rodent chewed on it. I still wanted to take it to some private shop because the dealer was still gonna charge an arm and a leg ($3600). He said that until I get it fixed the check engine line will come on. However, the check engine light has yet to come on again. I figure I will continue to dry it until the check engine light comes on again and then get it fixed.

 

I think p0445 is an evap code. Still before you look at the $3600 price and run, I'd look at what it entails. I have seen a lot of shops lower the cost with cheap parts or not do certain "unnecessary things" that makes them more competitive, price wise. No, I don't work for either a dealer or an independent. I just ask for what the book time is and when I compare apples to apples, independent shops are cheaper only because their labor rate is slightly lower. $3600 does not tell you what is being done or what is replaced with what.

 

po445 is an evap fault (purge related I believe). If they can see the wires chewed do they have room to repair them? Just an FYI but if it is rodent damage you can make an insurance claim. It would be a comprehensive so it won't hurt your rates.

 

Interesting options. The independent shop says it's 16 hours of labor. I don't know what a p0445 is but then again I don't know what an evap code is either! I told him that if he sees any wires chewed by a rodent to take some pictures and I can follow up on insurance.

Thanks guys

 

I had the fuel pump fail in my C6. It died gradually, progressively worsening over a period of weeks. First symptom was loss of power and engine sputtering above 3000 rpm under full throttle. The codes I got were lean lean codes for long term fuel trim, p0171 and p0174. Cost was $2500 back in ~2014 at a Chevy dealer, I doubt the c6 and c7 aren’t a whole lot different as far as dropping tanks and swapping in a fuel pump.

If you aren't losing power, and aren't getting lean codes, I doubt your fuel pump is the issue.

 

Does that jive with GM? Are rhey doing anything less than GM?

 

Sorry to hear of the problem and cost. What year is car and how many miles?

 

Honestly, I don't know what GM's doing nor what he's doing so I can't say. My guess is cheaper parts and perhaps cheaper labor.

But alas the independent guy called to say he can't do the job because he lacks a tool required for it so I guess it's back to the dealer.

 

Had pump replaced in my C6 and just last month on my C7. $1800 at my professional, honest, trustworthy Indy mechanic. Genuine GM parts.

 

How are they affording cheaper labor? Ask yourself this. Would YOU work for below market wages? If my skill level commands $20 and hour, why would I do it for $10? I may bend to 19 but at $10? I'd tell you to go screw yourself and HARD. IF you are that desperate, there probably is something wrong with you and I'd pass. I usually ask for a DETAILED quote. If they can't or won't, I don't accept $X. I walk. I compare the quotes to see who I want. I tend to pick "Middle of the Road" where it isn't extremely expensive or cheap. Just average because I can't afford cheap.

Did you ask him, assuming he has the tool, for a detailed estimate or at least, compare what GM said? It might be helpful to know how he got it so cheap.

 

First off I did say "perhaps" didn't I? Would I work for below-market wages? Not consciously. Have I worked for below-market wages? Definitely. You see not everybody knows exactly what they are worth. Some don't think too highly of their value and take a job too cheaply. Others overvalue their worth and sometimes remain unemployed for long periods of time or get a job getting paid a lot of $$$. I've been a computer consultant for most of my professional career. Over that time I've made varying differing amounts per hour swinging in a range of $70/hour difference between the low and high. And it was not only going up as I gained more experience. For example, my last contract was $x/hour and the one before that was $70/hour more! All kinds of things can determine how much an employer will offer a potential employee like a specific skill set (knows AWS, Docker and Kubernetes? Pay the man handsomely!). But people also evaluate things like commute (pre-covid I guess), atmosphere, environment, title, benefits, and qualifications when they decide to take a position. It's not always just the most $$$. The dealer's mechanics may have certain credentials that are required (Go to GM Mechanics school, certain certificates, etc. I don't I'm just saying). The guy down at the local shop may just not want to be bothered to get the credential or like this commute better or likes working at a mom/pop shop, etc. Your evaluation of "would you work below-market rates?" is far too simplistic.

You're assuming I'm a mechanic and will look at the details and say "That's not right" or "I probably don't need this part/work done". But I'm not a mechanic and while I can question extreme prices (in fact that's exactly why I posted!) and learn if they are within reason by using the wisdom of people in this forum, a detailed list to me would probably look like the Perl code I'm working on right now to you. IOW You'd just look at it and say "Hmmm... well I guess so".

Anyways, the car's back at the dealer and getting the work done. They said they saw evidence of a rodent chewing a hole into something and I told them to take a pic or otherwise document it so I can try submitting an insurance claim. Anybody have more info about that it'd be appreciated.

 

Perhaps I phrased it badly. I should have said "all things being equal". Yes, you are right, there are a lot of other things to be considered. That said, between a GM dealer and an independent, I am not sure what else they could offer one way other other that would sway me. Assuming bother are fairly competent, I really don't know what would have that much of an influence between one or the other.

Again true. But I am not sure where else to begin. When I don't understand what it is, I might ask a totally disinterested party to explain. I might ask my buddy who is a mechanic why I am paying for X, Y or Z.

Sucks but at least you are sorting it out.

 

I recently had the dealer replace my leaking fuel pump in the left tank under warranty.
I voiced concern that I'd rather not have the factory installed drivetrain torn from my car and reinstalled at a dealer to fix the pump and asked if they were aware of another way. (I had previously researched this and knew for myself it was in fact possible)
The dealer admitted they have a mechanic that is able to do the repair in a fraction of the book time by removing the rear facia and a muffler to gain access to release the crossover tube and be able to drop the tank with the entire drivetrain still in the car.
Also, I know for a fact that if your arms aren't too thick it is possible to reach up and pinch the release tangs on the left crossover hose clamp without removing anything at all. Once the clamp is released there is just 1 bolt and a bracket atop the transmission to remove and you can pull the crossover hose out of the tank fitting with nothing but your hand by forcing it back into a S shaped bend. I know this because I tried it out for myself before calling the dealer and was able to release it. It takes some contorting and is uncomfortable, but do-able.

You may want to ask around and find a private mechanic that might be willing to do it using one of these alternative methods and charge you actual time instead of book time. It is not necessary to drop the driveline out of the car if the mechanic is willing to get creative.

 

This is correct. I had the same repair done under warrantee on my 2019 GS. The Vette tech is a female and she was able to remove the rear rascia and reach the pump area from behind the car. This allowed her to do the repair in a fraction of the normal time. It took almost 6 weeks for the part to come in (this was during the pandemic shut down) but once it did she had it fixed in half a day.