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Ok, added the pucks with the blocks, they won’t line up no matter how I move the blocks or jack, see photos what am I doing wrong? The first photo is the front and second rear.
The QuickJacks have two different 'boxed' sections at the back end where the blocks can be placed. I don't know which one you're using, but try the other. There's no way they shouldn't line up.
Ok, added the pucks with the blocks, they won’t line up no matter how I move the blocks or jack, see photos what am I doing wrong? The first photo is the front and second rear.
That's pretty much how mine line up. I get about 85% of the pucks on to the blocks. The first time I lifted the car, I only raised it enough to clear the tires. I shook it back and forth and front to back, nothing moved. I did the entire header replacement with it like that and it was stable as could be.
There's a hack on you tube that shows how you can add cheap casters to the frames to move them around the garage floor. I did that and it makes all the difference for me. I can roll them around with my foot to where I need them to be.
It’s definitely giving me some “pucker factor” lifting the car like this.
So what about lifting the car without the pucks using just the blocks at the lift points?
I wouldn't, too much chance of being "off" just enough to damage the rocker panels. Turn your blocks 90 degrees so they are parallel with your frame, then line them up with the pucks. You may need to slide the QJ forward or back under the car. As the QJ just begins to move upward it will also move slightly forward, coming in contact with the pucks. I always stop at this point and double-check that the contact is solid and not touching the composite rocker panels.
It will work, just take your time and be willing to move the unit incrementally to get everything to line up properly.
Ok, added the pucks with the blocks, they won’t line up no matter how I move the blocks or jack, see photos what am I doing wrong? The first photo is the front and second rear.
Originally Posted by Ruouthere
The blocks spaced as close together (front & back) ans possible are 40” center to center. My pucks are 38” center to center, see photos.
Originally Posted by ShawnZR-1
That's pretty much how mine line up. I get about 85% of the pucks on to the blocks. The first time I lifted the car, I only raised it enough to clear the tires. I shook it back and forth and front to back, nothing moved. I did the entire header replacement with it like that and it was stable as could be.
Originally Posted by Ruouthere
It’s definitely giving me some “pucker factor” lifting the car like this.
So what about lifting the car without the pucks using just the blocks at the lift points?
I took delivery of my QuickJack after storing my fun cars for the winter, so I haven't used it on the C7Z yet. That said, have you tried rotating it, so it's perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the frame?
I wouldn't, too much chance of being "off" just enough to damage the rocker panels. Turn your blocks 90 degrees so they are parallel with your frame, then line them up with the pucks. You may need to slide the QJ forward or back under the car. As the QJ just begins to move upward it will also move slightly forward, coming in contact with the pucks. I always stop at this point and double-check that the contact is solid and not touching the composite rocker panels.
It will work, just take your time and be willing to move the unit incrementally to get everything to line up properly.
Even as the lift comes up we’re still faced with a dimensional issue. The pucks center to center are 38” and the lift with the blocks center to center as close to each other as the jack allows are at 40”. But I’ll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens as the blocks make first contact with the pucks.
I took delivery of my QuickJack after storing my fun cars for the winter, so I haven't used it on the C7Z yet. That said, have you tried rotating it, so it's perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the frame?
Having them crosswise would severely limit what you could do under the car. I couldn't imagine trying to replace the exhaust that way!!
Did I miss where the OP said he's replacing exhaust? His original question was whether to use "lifting blocks and/or pucks." He later expressed concern about lifting block alignment with his pucks. My question was simply whether he tried orienting the QJ the other way, as endorsed by the manufacturer.
Regardless of parallel vs perpendicular "orientation," my QJ is perfect to do the tire, wheel, brake, and detailing work, for which I bought it. I do "under the car" work on a full-size lift.
Even as the lift comes up we’re still faced with a dimensional issue. The pucks center to center are 38” and the lift with the blocks center to center as close to each other as the jack allows are at 40”. But I’ll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens as the blocks make first contact with the pucks.
Try this: First, turn the blocks lengthwise. Place the rear block at the very front of the rear tray and align the entire unit so that the front edge of the block is lined up with the center of the puck. Now move to the front tray and position this block exactly like the rear, front edge even with the center of the puck.
If this doesn't work, I will set mine up under the GS tomorrow and post photos here.
Interesting about the perpendicular option. I first noticed it on episodes of Street Outlaws No Prep Kings and saw they had used Quickjacks in that orientation. Nice to know it's an option if the need would arise or your garage layout allows/requires it. If you watch that show keep an eye out for footage from the pits.