Basic winter question…





My question is, how often should I start it up and drive it? Is it okay to park it for 10, 15 or 20 days or more or should I ensure I get it out to ensure it (tires, oil etc) remains optimal. If yes, how often?
Do or don't do, sounds like you've already got your answer.
I thought you sold the car, that you just bought? Buyers remorse or something? If you're selling it, let it sit, start it or don't, drive it or don't, what's it matter if it's sold (or going to be)?
while you are more than welcome to disagree with this, the overwhelming majority of studies on this very topic all agree that running your engine at idle without load outside of operating temperature is bad for it for numerous reasons, most agreeing that it is the oil that is the concern. driving (sanely, mind you) drastically reduces the length of time the engine is operating in these conditions and promotes a cleaner running engine.
there's also the whole argument of excessive emissions to be had.





I would agree with do not just start the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Better to just let it sit unless you can take it out for a ride and get all fluids up to temp.






I won't drive it on salty roads unless I can do a thorough underside flush promptly.
Twice per month December-March, I start it up and let it idle for a few minutes, then drive back & forth on our clear driveway (50 yds each way) a few times. Let it idle for a few minutes while I exercise every switch and control (there's lots of them!), then up and down the drive some more. Use brakes moderately then firmly, turn the steering full lock multiple times, use different gears, etc. Total run time is about 30 minutes, coolant gets up to normal fairly soon, oil temp takes longer but does get to 175.
Despite the wailing of those who seem convinced that this will somehow ruin the car, none of them have had any unusual problems and one was still running really great after 8 winters and 100k+ miles.
I get oil analysis after every oil change just from curiosity, the change after my winter runs shows identical to a summer-only run.
Probably it doesn't make any difference, but my procedure certainly isn't hurting anything.
But I don't just run it for a couple of minutes.
I won't drive it on salty roads unless I can do a thorough underside flush promptly.
Twice per month December-March, I start it up and let it idle for a few minutes, then drive back & forth on our clear driveway (50 yds each way) a few times. Let it idle for a few minutes while I exercise every switch and control (there's lots of them!), then up and down the drive some more. Use brakes moderately then firmly, turn the steering full lock multiple times, use different gears, etc. Total run time is about 30 minutes, coolant gets up to normal fairly soon, oil temp takes longer but does get to 175.
Despite the wailing of those who seem convinced that this will somehow ruin the car, none of them have had any unusual problems and one was still running really great after 8 winters and 100k+ miles.
I get oil analysis after every oil change just from curiosity, the change after my winter runs shows identical to a summer-only run.
Probably it doesn't make any difference, but my procedure certainly isn't hurting anything.
But I don't just run it for a couple of minutes.
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Absolutely do not fire it up to idle it up to temperature -- better to just let it sit.
You'll be told by a bunch of old people here that you must use a battery maintainer, you must use fuel stabilizer, etc etc -- all of this is untrue if you're driving it at all (or storing the car for just 6 months, frankly).
Yes, I'm ignoring your non-facts................ While it's not a good idea to idle your engine say over 5-10 minutes, show me proof where idling an engine over 30 seconds at startup has damaged one. Show me a C7 where you can store it in the cold for 6 months without a battery tender and it starts right up.
Last edited by Kevin A Jones; Dec 14, 2022 at 12:14 PM.
Yes, I'm ignoring your non-facts................ While it's not a good idea to idle your engine say over 5-10 minutes, show me proof where idling an engine over 30 seconds at startup has damaged one. Show me a C7 where you can store it in the cold for 6 months without a battery tender and it starts right up.
IMO it isn't going to do any tangible damage, it's just totally pointless and pollutes way more than just driving and getting warmed up fast.
Obviously the longer an engine is cold the more fuel dissolves into the oil, so that's not good, but does it matter? Probably not unless you don't change oil responsibly.
Plus internal oiling isn't so great at idle speed with freezing cold oil. And we have a pushrod engine, so I believe oil splash is a main method of oiling the camshaft, something that doesn't happen well at idle with thick oil.
Again, probably no tangible difference even after years of doing it one way or another.
Soot deposition is an issue when running below operating temperature. Condensation is an issue when running cold. Extending the runtime in these conditions increases the soot and water deposition into your oil, which can lead to increased wear and in the worst cases premature component failure. This is what was said.
It's super-fantastic that it hasn't happened to you, and I'm genuinely happy that you've had no perceived issues with your methods. If I had to assume, you must have excellent maintenance habits, which largely addresses (albeit wastefully) the above-mentioned issues. Kudos to you!
The fact of the matter is between the two strategies, one is objectively better for both the engine and the environment. So why not just do the better thing?
To directly answer your question? No. I do not need a battery tender. I'm guessing you and others who swear by battery tenders don't disconnect your battery, though. I do.
I don't use a battery maintainer. Ever. They are just another wasteful thing that I need to spend some amount of time managing -- hell, if I'm hooking up a maintainer, I'm already touching the battery, might as well undo one 10mm nut instead. That's free.
So if I'm going to be storing a car beyond the projected lifespan of the battery, I will unhook the battery. If it's a flooded lead-acid battery, which the C7 unfortunately has from the factory, that means by the books you have about 8 months before it self-discharges to the point it is considered "dead" -- however, experience has taught me that this figure is more like 12-16 months, of course assuming it's a healthy battery to begin with. If it's an AGM, it's practically a nonissue as this battery technology has an extremely low self-discharge rate.
Let's talk about "projected lifespan of the battery" because that's the crux of this argument. The parasitic drain on your battery imposed by the car plus the self-discharge rate of the battery itself plus the specced depth of discharge on the battery gives the C7 around 5 months on a healthy battery before you'll have serious concerns. The majority of discharge here is because it's a flooded lead acid battery. The parasitic drain shouldn't be more than 10mA -- if it is, something's up. So swap an AGM in there like Chevy should have done to begin with and those 5 months become a very comfortable 8-12.
But hey.. that's bad for the battery. Following the idea of "just do the better thing" above, people plug their car into the nearest outlet. I opt to not incur the expense and concern of a maintainer and just disconnect the battery. Same end result, I'm just cheap.
Soot deposition is an issue when running below operating temperature. Condensation is an issue when running cold. Extending the runtime in these conditions increases the soot and water deposition into your oil, which can lead to increased wear and in the worst cases premature component failure. This is what was said.
It's super-fantastic that it hasn't happened to you, and I'm genuinely happy that you've had no perceived issues with your methods. If I had to assume, you must have excellent maintenance habits, which largely addresses (albeit wastefully) the above-mentioned issues. Kudos to you!
The fact of the matter is between the two strategies, one is objectively better for both the engine and the environment. So why not just do the better thing?
No, but this is pretty nuanced so let me try to cover the big points here.
To directly answer your question? No. I do not need a battery tender. I'm guessing you and others who swear by battery tenders don't disconnect your battery, though. I do.
I don't use a battery maintainer. Ever. They are just another wasteful thing that I need to spend some amount of time managing -- hell, if I'm hooking up a maintainer, I'm already touching the battery, might as well undo one 10mm nut instead. That's free..
Nobody can show proof of anything.
IMO it isn't going to do any tangible damage, it's just totally pointless and pollutes way more than just driving and getting warmed up fast.
Obviously the longer an engine is cold the more fuel dissolves into the oil, so that's not good, but does it matter? Probably not unless you don't change oil responsibly.
Plus internal oiling isn't so great at idle speed with freezing cold oil. And we have a pushrod engine, so I believe oil splash is a main method of oiling the camshaft, something that doesn't happen well at idle with thick oil.
Again, probably no tangible difference even after years of doing it one way or another.
You also make another good point. We dissect oil filters to try to determine which is best, we go on and on for days arguing which oil is the best, however like you stated, as long as you change your oil responsibly you really don't have to worry much about filters/oils/idle duration etc.
As I stated earlier, my 96 Tacoma has 415,000 miles on it and has never had an engine cover removed, much engine repairs. But then the oil & filter has been changed every 5,000 miles in it's 26 years.











