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So my car wouldn’t start a short time ago so I pulled the carpet up and looked at the battery and the positive cable was on the middle terminal??? I went to move it to the rear terminal where it belongs and the nut on the rear terminal is stripped so that’s why someone put it on the middle terminal.
So is that just an adapter on top of the battery that has the extra terminals?
That is a fuse block on the positive terminal. 350 amp fuse to front fuse panel, starter, alternator, and power steering.
100 amp fuse to the rear fuse panel. Another 100 amp that I think goes to the convertible top.
That is a fuse block on the positive terminal. 350 amp fuse to front fuse panel, starter, alternator, and power steering.
100 amp fuse to the rear fuse panel. Another 100 amp that I think goes to the convertible top.
Ron
Excellent pic there is another positive lug that isn’t shown and it is striped out. To recap there are two main positive lugs and the one where the positive battery terminal should be is striped out so the lug just spins when the nut on top is attempted to be removed to enable me to move the positive battery cable to the correct location
This purchasing my dream car over the past 3 weeks has been a nightmare but I will get through it. What is involved with me replacing this top piece ? Will it create problems for the car to be without power or should I buy a battery tender and hook it up before I try and fix this battery issue properly?
Sorry I am just a tad bit frustrated, Thanks again everyone for the advice.
A hot wire from the battery to the starter and other electrical loads in the front that is NOT fused at the battery? You need to connect a 350 amp fuse at that point to feed the front of the car. Currently you have an unsafe fire hazard.
Get a new bolt?
Replacing the fuse block (disconnecting power) won't cause major issues:
- you will need to reindex (reprogram) windows
- you might need to reset radio and other settings depending how long of a power outage
- emissions sensor status will reset. If you are in an area requiring emissions check you will need to drive the car for multiple ignition cycles over several days before they show OK or READY with an ODBII reader.
This fuse block is what it looks like I am going to need. Is it okay to just disconnect battery to replace this piece or will my electronics go bananas? I know by just having my battery be low when I got it charged enough to start I had a message to roll drivers window down and back up, then a second message to roll the passenger window down and back up.
Dude - see Post 6. Always disconnect black (ground) cable first, then positive from battery posts. Reconnect positive first, then ground.
Rolling the windows up and down is "indexing."
Ron
Ron,
I appreciate yours and everyone’s input and I had a reply window open on the forum looking for some images I could screenshot when I posted so I missed your post #6.
Also to clarify I bought the car like this , I realized the battery cable belonged on the rear lug not the center one so when I tried to move it is when I realized why it was on the center one “because the rear lug was stripped out with a nut on it.
Take a deep breath and order the new fuse block for the top of the battery. Small things like this happen on many cars, not just Corvettes. Not sure this qualifies as a "nightmare" item. There are many more things that would fit into that catagory.
Take a deep breath and order the new fuse block for the top of the battery. Small things like this happen on many cars, not just Corvettes. Not sure this qualifies as a "nightmare" item. There are many more things that would fit into that catagory.
You are so right and I did a poor job verbalizing my thoughts when posting this issue last night. I should have described the nightmare as a compilation of items corvette related that have taken place over the last 3 weeks.
Buy the part shown in post #7
Remove the negative cable (Be nice to the thin black wire on the negative cable(don't break it!!!))
Remove the positive cable
Replace the fuse block with the stripped post
Attach the positive cable
Attach the negative cable (Be sure you were nice to the thin black wire on the negative cable or repair the broken wire with SOLDERED connections)
Index the windows. (All the other things in memory are just fine and will still be there)
Thanks for the clarification. My Operator's Manual says to 'briefly' pull or push the window switch after the window has stopped. Also good to know the window will go down even if not indexed. I always wondered about that,
(From my manual) To program the window.
Close all doors.
Place the ignition in ACC/ ACCESSORY or ON/RUN.
Partially open the window to be programmed, then close it and continue to pull the switch briefly after the window has fully closed.
Press the power window switch until the window is fully open and briefly hold.
Last edited by Grand Slam; Apr 24, 2023 at 11:46 PM.