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Okay here is a close up of the current battery in the car, according to the bar code it’s a 2017 Duralast battery. A new battery is ~$250 , my main objective at this point is to get my drivers side headlight fully functional. If there is more than a 50% chance a new battery will cure the problem then I don’t might spending the money but after all I have spent on cars in the last 6 weeks my slush fund is getting slim if it’s a shot in the dark.
Even if a new battery doesnt fix it.....its 6 years old and will need replacing anyways. Good luck.
Great Point , maybe with the demand from the two JBL amps and a 6 yr old battery maybe it’s my cars cry for help. 😂
I guess I posed that question with hopes of someone saying “Oh Yeah, my battery was bad and XYZ was happening” and the new battery cured it all because I am tired of throwing money at it and haven’t even driven 200 miles since I got it home.
Great Point , maybe with the demand from the two JBL amps and a 6 yr old battery maybe it’s my cars cry for help. 😂
I guess I posed that question with hopes of someone saying “Oh Yeah, my battery was bad and XYZ was happening” and the new battery cured it all because I am tired of throwing money at it and haven’t even driven 200 miles since I got it home.
I think you'll find that people have reported pretty much anything you can think of as not working until they replaced the battery. Key fobs, window indexing, eLSD, traction control, the active exhaust......the list goes on. As mentioned, replacing a 6 year old battery is nearly preventive maintenance. Someone will inevitably come along and talk about how they got 10 years out of their battery or something similar but the vast majority are in that 5-7 year window.
As I mentioned in my prior post, it'd plug the left headlight into the harness for the right light and see if the issue follows the headlight. If it does, then you know the headlight is bad.
After checking again you are correct the lights that are not functioning are DRL’s and Blinker.
Many know the pains I have gone thru in the past 6 weeks trying to find a clean Corvette to enjoy in my senior years. Took delivery on first one 4/5 drove a few times and took to Hendrick for a 200 point inspection they found a cracked block. Paid cash for this car so fought with seller to buy vehicle back. Shipped it back to them 3 weeks ago (still paying insurance and waiting for check). So that was like a kick in the nutz.
Purchased a 2nd one(another 2014) on 4/21, got it home put a hundred miles on it before it got backed into and front headlight broken and front clip gouge in fiberglass by headlight. While front clip was getting painted I changed out HMI module , all speakers etc… including new $1675 complete front headlamp assembly.
Body shop installed new front clip got car back excited and ready to cruise BUT NOW…..
Front headlight drl and blinker doesn’t work
Factory Nav is 1/2 mile off course
I just put cover on car and am tired of worrying about it, I just wanted a car I can start go for a cruise or car show and then come back home and put her back up for the week. I never had these issues with my C4 or C6…… totall
I was hoping it would be a simple contact issue. Looks like it is deeper than that. Was the car running (or at least the lights and accessories were switched on) when the car was backed into by someone? If there was power to the lights when the light assembly was damaged, it is possible (very small chance) that maybe the headlamp control module (or ballast, after 2015) is damaged.
However, I think it may just be that you have to get the control module re-programmed to accept the new light. I know a new control module will require re-programming, but it could/might be the other way too. New vehicles have some nice ways to deter theft of expensive parts, but they can be a pain for the DIYer. Maybe you can call up a GM dealer service department and ask if there is any programming to be done if you were to change a headlight assembly also. Best if you could speak to a GM certified technician.
I was hoping it would be a simple contact issue. Looks like it is deeper than that. Was the car running (or at least the lights and accessories were switched on) when the car was backed into by someone? Unfortunately it was me that backed into my own car with my truck, car was off and I was barely moving. All electronics were 100% prior to that. So my thought process was if I had to take the front end off to get to the light I would go ahead and have the front end repaired and painted. Add all new speakers, two JL Audio amps and new HMI and radio module all while the front was being repaired.
I completed all of those tasks , body shop reinstalled front end and the following quirky things happened
DRL and blinker don’t work on new headlight but headlights themselves do(low beam and high beam)
GPS is off 1/4 of a mile
service rear axle light has come on and then goes off
However, I think it may just be that you have to get the control module re-programmed to accept the new light. ‘Body shop called dealer and they said no that a complete unit was purchased so it should be plug-n-play
.
‘So this combined with my other misfortunes and corvettes in the last 30 days is what has driven my frustrations.
Service rear axle is definitely battery related. More and more I believe you have a faulty left headlight assembly. As for the gps, your phone is always more accurate anyway.
Service rear axle is definitely battery related. More and more I believe you have a faulty left headlight assembly. I agree with this as well but the dealer won’t order a replacement unless I pay their service dept to say “headlight is defective “ which I think is a bunch of crap.
As for the gps, your phone is always more accurate anyway. ‘You are correct but I like to have my usb music then just hit the Nav button with favorite destinations and go plus I paid $1399 to be able to do that
WHEN YOU BUY A “COMPLETE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY” it shows in all the parts catalogs that the DRL and Blinker module is included! ……… BUT IN THE FOOTNOTES IT SAYS IT IS NOT !!
SO IF YOU DON NOT TAKE THE OLD MODULE OFF YOUR CORE THAT WILL BE A $400 mistake not counting labor
For the GPS issue, have you driven the car for some miles using the GPS yet? It usually improves after a few minutes of driving.
‘Interesting you say that, I drove into our small town 7 miles away and it was spot on driving slow(20 mph) on Main Street. Then heading back home on the 55mph two lane hwy it went bananas again. But it would be off several hundred yards and I could slow down drive in a circle in a parking lot and it would all of a sudden snap to my location and as I sped back up the accuracy would again deteriorate
